clutch help
Total posts: 1087
Last post: Sep 15, 2023 Member since:Nov 3, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Ah, I had it backwards! I thought I saw 1" SLAVE! Yes, I've seen the disk stick to cast iron after sitting for a few years.... Good one!!
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 1087
Last post: Sep 15, 2023 Member since:Nov 3, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Sorry didn't see post till just now! Yes of course you can call me!
At the time of my post yesterday, I did not see your post about the 1 inch slave cylinder to "move more fluid".... I think you might have this backwards... The bigger the slave piston diameter, the more fluid VOLUME is required from the master to move it.... All things equal, a 3/4 inch bore slave will have quite a bit more travel potential than a 1 inch... when using the same master. See what I mean about more variables with the Wilwoods... It should be fantastic once you get it dialed in!
I still want to hear about the 5-speed!
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 1456
Last post: Jan 31, 2022 Member since:Sep 8, 2003
|
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 186 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I have had a couple of clutch disks bond to the flywheel after sitting for extended periods of time. That would keep you from engaging...
I have had luck with starting it in gear and with the clutch in and rving the engine quickly
Sean Windrum
1996 MGF VVC
1970 1275 GT Racer
66 Austin Countryman
63 997 Cooper (Under Construction)
63 MG 1100
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
when buying this car the only thing i was hesitant about was the 5 speed as i have read so many negative reviews about them over the years. but after researching a bit more it seems most people are pretty happy with these minispares units. just hoping i can get this to work without pulling it.
Total posts: 163
Last post: Sep 30, 2020 Member since:May 20, 2008
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 7 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
The problem is clearly the 5 speed.
Just rip it out and ship it to my house. I'll send you my faithful four speed and you'll be much happier!
(We might as well swap the Wilwood pedals at the same time. )
:-)
Total posts: 138
Last post: Dec 27, 2015 Member since:Jul 22, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
I had this problem and as Jemal suggests my problem was the stop nut.
Total posts: 1087
Last post: Sep 15, 2023 Member since:Nov 3, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
I almost weighed in earlier, but I've never used the Wilwood Pedal assemblies... and that's an extra variable that could be considered!
Usually, the culprit with the clutch not fully disengaging is either too much of the hydraulic stroke lost to freeplay (and this includes problems with worn components, bent throw-out arms, incorrect adjustment causing the slave to operate at the end of piston travel, a bad rubber hose flexing, improperly mounted master cylinder that does not have the stroke matched to the pedal travel), or the stop-nuts are preventing movement of the throw-out plunger (this happens more than you'd think!).
For your Wilwood pedals, study the installation and try to see if you have efficient travel of the pedal for the available master cylinder 'range'. I know those can work fantastic when properly dialed in! I want to know what you think of the 5-speed!
Total posts: 1716
Last post: Oct 18, 2020 Member since:Oct 18, 2011
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
That's the downside of custom setups - you have to do the design and calibration yourself (BTDT).
Besides the lengths of the various mechanical levers in the system (and assuming no wear /slop - after all its all brand new) the back plate travel (which releases the clutch plate) is controlled by the ralationship between the master and slave cylinder diameters... (Without doing the math) I think you could calculate the origianl ratio and compare that to what you now have?
However, with a standard clutch arm/lever (the bit the slave pushrod attaches to) and a properly set up flywheel/plate/back plate (drive straps parallel to clutch plate??) you need about 15/16th of an inch travel at the top of the clutch arm.
The length of the slave rod is irrelevant as long as the slave piston has at least the said 15/16th of travel before it contacts the outer C clip.
Starting the car in gear won't do anything for a clutch plate sticking on primary splines. However, it will release a clutch plate glued to the flywheel with corrosion. I don't think this is your problem because you say "fully disengage". If the clutch plate is stuck the clutch won't release at all. (Just like when you fit the straps back to front :((
I don't think you'll be able to see the splines with the clutch fitted.. maybe try a light and mirror through the starter hole?? (but I strongly doubt that's an issue).
Good luck, Ian
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
Total posts: 9545
Last post: Apr 25, 2024 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|
The obvious bits to check would be the clutch arm isn't bent or the ball tip worn, then check that the slave cylinder is corrctly positioned for full travel and the slave push rod is the correct length... so that all of the above is providing am apropriate range of movement wihtout the clutch release adjustment bolt being wound all the way out. Check also the big stop nut on the end of the clutch throw shaft isn't in too far.
Beyond that you have to go deeper. if the lump has been sitting assembled for 6 years, the clutch plate splines may not be sliding on the primary gear. ( I had a non-Mini that was plagued by a clutch that was sticky on the splines - the clutch always dragged a bit, especially when cold and the tolerances were tight. Sometimes had to use 2nd gear to stop the transmission spin in neutral. These parts go together un-lubed and a bit of rust may have developed, causing resistance.
Try putting the car in gear and starting with the clutch "disengaged".
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 2266
Last post: Oct 1, 2020 Member since:Mar 28, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
|