A takeoff shudder may have just been a broken engine steady and not anything to do with the clutch itself. Been there, done that - with a broken upper steady the shudder my car had when I tried to ease the clutch out almost rocked my fillings loose. Hope you get it sorted. Keep posting here - you'll likely get solid info and suggestions.

Evan:

Take the car back to the mechanic and have him sort out the clutch problem.

Do not tell him you were on here.

A reputable mechanic would have given you a guarantee.

It would be a good idea if you got a repair manual for the car. MM has them on paper or computer CD.

The manual is good reading.

Have fun,

Russ

I did have an experienced Mini mechanic do the work, but he did not do just the clutch, he took out the entire lump to replace the clutch assembly, put in a new final drive, and unfortunatly rebuild my transmission haha. I cannot remember what exactly he took off the firewall though. As far as year of the car it is a 74, but the mechanic said the engine was a 1275 from an 80s Mini. This is my first Mini and the reason for the clutch replacment was when i would take off from a start the car would make an awful sometimes violent shutter.

Evan:

Did an experienced Mini mechanic do the work or was it a mechanic that can "fix all makes and models" or was it a friend? Do you know him very well?

Usually, the whole power unit must be removed to replace the clutch. It an be done with the power unit in the car but usually only experienced Mini mechanics do it.

The clutch hydraulic system does not need to be opened or any of the parts disconnected to replace the clutch.

The slave cylinder can be disconnected from the clutch housing and tied out of the way on the engine bulkhead (firewall). An experienced Mini mechanic would know that and a good non-Mini mechanic could see that easily.

Did your mechanic say anything about how he did the work? Did he say anything about removing the whole power unit from the car or doing the clutch with the power unit in the car? Did you see the old parts?

What you write and said you had to do makes me wonder what your mechanic actually did to your car.

How long have you had the car? Is it your first Mini? What year car is it? Why did you think the clutch needed work?

The classic Austin/Morris/BMC/Leyland/Rover Mini is often a hobby car. There are few professional Mini mechanics and the "fix all makes and models" mechanics want nothing to do with them.  They are not just put in gas and go cars.

Many Mini owners do all their own repairs. It is good you came here to ask about bleeding the clutch. You may want to ask here if there is anyone near you who can look at your car and advise you on what is what with your car or recommend a good mechanic that can help you.

Have fun,

Russ 

Thank you so much for the detailed information, I will have to check for a leak just to be sure.

Alittle history on the car, I did have someone replace the clutch in June, however when I test drove it at his garage everything worked fine. The car sat for a few more months as i worked on it and when I took it out for a spin last night I lost the clutch. My father came by and bled the system and it worked to get me home. I havent drove it since but I will look for leaks before I take it out again.

-Thank you

Evan:

How do you think air got into your clutch hydraulic system?

Have you taken it apart in recent memory?

Were the master cylinder or slave cylinder leaking?

How did you fix the problem?

The hydraulic system that operates the Mini clutch is a simple system with a master pressure cylinder with attached reservoir connected by a pipe and hose to a slave cylinder.

The master cylinder is mounted on the engine compartment firewall and is operated by a foot pedal.

The slave cylinder is mounted on the clutch housing.

When you push your foot on the clutch pedal, the pedal pushes on the piston inside the master cylinder that pushes fluid through the pipe and hose to the slave cylinder.

The fluid pressure in the slave cylinder pushes on a piston that is connected to the clutch mechanism and the clutch parts move.

This is a closed system.  Air cannot enter unless the system is opened or disassembled or the reservoir empties because of a leak. Also, if the system is opened, fluid will leak out.

There is always fluid in the system unless there is a leak or the system is opened. Pushing on the clutch pedal puts pressure on the fluid that already fills the system.

 and no air can enter unless the system is opened.

Normally, there is no air inside the closed system

Over time, parts of the system deteriorate. The metal parts corrode, or rust, rubber parts wear, or the rubber hose comes apart and the system leaks. Sometimes the inside of the rubber hose comes apart and blocks fluid pressure.

One way to find a leak is to look for blistered paint on painted parts.  The fluid will attack paint. A leak will not admit air.

Places to look for leaks are on the inside of the car above and behind the clutch pedal  and on the slave cylinder where the push rod enters the rubber cover.

After a hydraulic system is repaired, air must be removed from the closed system. Air is compressable, fluid is not. This procedure is called "bleeding the system".

To "bleed" the system, a "bleed" screw on the slave cylinder is opened while there is pressure on the master cylinder and fluid escapes through the 'bleed" screw.

This is repeated until there is continual fluid flow out of the "bleed" screw and then the "bleed screw is closed.

If there is a fluid leak in a hydraulic system, pressure in the piston in the master cylinder wil not pressurize the fluid in the system.

Sometimes, "bleeding the system" will temporarily allow a leaking system to function for a short time.

Common problem are fluid leaks from either the master cylinder or the slave cylander, an internal leak in the master cylinder, or the hose to the slave cylinder collapsing on the inside and blocking fluid pressure.

Are you sure you got air in your clutch system and not a leak?

Have fun,

Russ

So I took my Mini out today, first time in along time, and I think what happened was air got into the clutch line so I lost my clutch about 2 mins down the road. I got it fixed but I am just wondering if anyone can provide me any diagrams or info on how to diagnose this issue so it wont happen again.

Thank you