Rear Quarter Windows--Who has restored??
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I wonder. Would butyl rubber windshield sealant not do the trick? It's great for holding glass (by definition) and seals into any abnormalities or cavities between the glass and the frame. It's sold pre-rolled into basically a rope shape about 1/2" in diameter. It won't corrode, can be heated to facilitate easier movement, and seals up water tight. Clean up is easy with a razor, or just another ball of butyl rubber. Or a solvent.
I use the stuff all the time. Used it every time I've made a set of headlights. Anyone tried it for this?
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Did mine about three years ago and did post a lot of pic’s way back then.. I did not pull apart the hinges and they turned out fine. I learned after MANY frustrating hours that the rubber seal would not allow me to compress the frame around it no matter how much heat, silicone lubricant and pressure from clamps I used!!! Just too thick! I ended up bringing it all to a glass shop to look at and they sold me the window trim. The fit is nice and snug. The ordered trim that would not fit was about 1.5mm and the glass shop's was about 1.2mm as I just measured with a questionable digital calipar...
I just tried to post several pic's but I think the file size is too large do I'll email them to ya.
Yeah JiMINI gave us all the lowdown on this job at this last weekend's event and man it sounds like a doozy. Glad he is getting with you before you tackle it!
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While I have not done any lately I have done them. I buy 1/16 neopreme strips 2 inches wide and long enough to go all the way around. Yes the material is a little thick but if you stretch it a little it thins to the correct thickness. I have a jig for the work bench and I use pipe clamps. Once the material is trimmed for length and the frame closed I use a razor knife and shim stock slid under the rubber to protect the glass from the knife to trim to the frame edge. I have noticed the rears on my 85 are ready for some care. The day Alex ( age 2 at the time ) ask me to stop smoking he placed a monkey sticker on the rear window of our mini. I'll have to work the windows without messing with the monkey. BTW Alex will be 15 in Feb. Seems he wants to drive the mini on wet days and a Moke on the better days. Works for me. Steve (CTR)
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Jim,
Thanks for the reply. I will email you off this site.
Jim
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Did mine about three years ago and did post a lot of pic’s way back then.. I did not pull apart the hinges and they turned out fine. I learned after MANY frustrating hours that the rubber seal would not allow me to compress the frame around it no matter how much heat, silicone lubricant and pressure from clamps I used!!! Just too thick! I ended up bringing it all to a glass shop to look at and they sold me the window trim. The fit is nice and snug. The ordered trim that would not fit was about 1.5mm and the glass shop's was about 1.2mm as I just measured with a questionable digital calipar...
I just tried to post several pic's but I think the file size is too large do I'll email them to ya.
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The company that I am using for chrome wants the hinges apart. Says the chrome may have some dark areas if not separated. Only going by his knowledge.
My frame to body seal is not original--reproduction and in 2 pieces with a gap between the pieces.
Jim
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I had my MK1 frames rechromed in Medford and they did it without pulling apart the hinges. They also did the front window runners. My biggest problem was finding the teeny screws that hold everything together. The rubber strip you wrote about is hard to get right. Don't throw away the frame to body seals if you can help it. The repros are too thick and don't fit good.
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Thanks for the replies.
I was talking of the rivets used in the three sections of hinge. Each one has a different head diameter and length.
My frames are still intact and do not need to be riveted together.
Does anyone remember who wrote the article on the steps they used to restore the rear quarter windows??? It was quite detailed and very well written.
Jim
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Glass is in. There is a bit of a gap though and I've not fitted it to the car.
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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I can see you've joined the frame there with pop rivets, but can't see if the glass is in or not. I'd have thought that the back of a pop rivet would be too big to allow the glass to fit properly.
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You can't see the rivets so just use pop rivets.
[URL=//s129.photobucket.com/user/LarryLebel/media/DSC02535_zps9814229e.jpg.html][/URL]
The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde
//www.cupcakecooper.ca/
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the packing for the glass is a strip of non-vulcanized rubber, available from our host
to work with it use some heat to soften it and it will easily press into place and form to the shape
trim the excess with a razor blade, once the glass is fully inserted
Can't help you with the rivets though, so hopefully someone else will chime in about them.
Norm
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I want to restore my opening rear quarter windows on my 1965 Cooper S. I want the frames re-chromed and new seals installed for the glass to frame. Also, I want to re-chrome the hinges which means taking them apart.
Some time ago, there was a post by a forum member detailing the process they went through to restore their windows. I believe the post was 2 pages long. If only I had made a copy!!
I have searched the forum for the post but to no avail.
The seal for the glass to frame is glass setting tape ( ?? ) and is around 2m.m. thick?? I have the original 47H9535 seal but it appears too thick.
If the hinges are to be taken apart to be re-chromed, I will need new rivets. I have searched in the Detroit area and can not find appropriate sized rivets.
Any help is appreciated!!!
Thank you.
Jim