A bit off topic, but ok.  My jet settings are a bit of a work in progress.  Currently - 45DCOE, 36mm chokes, 55F13 idle, 150 main, 180 air corrector, F11 emulsion tubes.

so it is run-on or dieseling

let us know if the miracle cure-all Seafoam actually helps

When I say gurgling, I mean that the car still wants to run after I turn it off. It's kind of hard to type the sound. Sometimes nothing happens at shut off. The car turns off normally. The Dist. it tight. I'll try Seafoam and maybe change the plugs. It was not just tuned. It probably has 250 on last tune up….most likely less. It only get driven 100 miles or so a year.

Thanks for the help so far. Bruce

do the seafoam tune up to eliminate carbon build up.

seafoam is best for agressive cleaning of carbon and gum build up. 

some clarification please

your post title says mini "gurgles" after shut off, then off we go on a "run-on" or "dieseling" discussion

the first thing I thought of when I heard the word "gurgling" is the boiling and bubbling and gurgling I heard for 5 seconds on shut down in non-mini car of mine that declared itself a few days later with a fully blown head gasket. Not good.  The coolant steaming and gurgling was in places it was not supposed to be: the cylinder. Kaboom

So which sound is it? gurgling or run-on/dieseling?

 

 

Until you find out what's going on, floor the throttle after you shut off the ignition. Seems counter-intuitive but it'll stop the dieseling.

I question how could the timing affect run-on/dieseling? The timing is in play when the cars ignition is on when you turn it off it shouldn't matter just by the term "dieseling" the motor is igniting with out spark.

if this is a recent problem, look for what has recently changed, or is likely to have worn out:

perished vacuum lines between the carb and the distributor, or if there is a thermal switch above the thermostat there's a vacuum line running to that too, also check the large vacuum line to the brake booster if one of those is on your car

vacuum leak around the base of the carb, or where the intake manifold meets the head (spray some aerosol cleaner around those joints while the engine is running and make sure there is no change in the engine (sound, rpm, etc.) indicating a leak - sometimes with age a leak can naturally develop in those joints which can be eliminated by either re-tightening the nuts, or by applying some liquid gasket around the edge to try and plug the leaking spot

was the car recently tuned up, and so could the timing have been adjusted, or the carburetor adjusted, or has the idle speed changed, causing this issue

If the engine is getting on in years, coke build up inside the chamber could cause hotspots, like CupCake mentioned, can develop over time, especially if the car is run on choke for a lot of short trips, so the stuff doesn't get to burn off.

Norm

Hot spots in the combustion chambers due to carbon build up. Run some decarbonizer through the carb. There's a potential for a huge plume of smoke so do it at night when nobody can see it.

I always use top pump fuel. I'm not sure what my carb setting are. This is a recent problem. I'm not sure if it just needs a turn here or there or if there is a bigger issue.

Bruce

Jeffm5150,

What Weber carb and what are your jet settings?

Sputters as in run-on?  That can be caused by high idle speed or incorrect timing.  I had chronic run-on with my HIF-6 SU carb when it idled at 1200 RPM but with my Weber at 850 RPM idle I don't suffer from run-on any more.

More specifics run-on here: //en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dieseling

Run on can be caused by your carb running too rich at idle it can be also caused by using low octane fuel.

When I turn my car off it sometimes wants to sputter and then shuts off. I assume it's extra fuel in the carb?? What do I need to adjust to fix this problem?

Thanks in advance, Bruce