Yes, it's not uncommon to find a bearing that spins on the cage, which is cast iron as opposed to the MUCH harder crownwheel (a punch will just be destroyed if trying to dimple the crownwheel!)

I've punched and 'loctited' numerous cages that where otherwise good with no follow-up problems.  IMHO, the reason we are seeing 'more' problems with gearboxes is related to how long in the tooth these components are getting... The decades are piling up!

All right we know they are being used as is with efforts to repair. My other question had to do with why they are failing. I have been stripping mini / metro trannys for a very long time. I don't recall having this issue till most of what I see is DAM 5626. The units are the A+ style with the spider gear thrust tabs.

I have a special bearing puller I use for diff bearings. It and a 20 ton press make short work of them. I keep a large selection of diff. shims and use depth mike, feeler gauges and different side cover gaskets to set preload. I think all bad units I have run into were sealed at factory and not apart since. Kind of makes one wonder about the condition of the trannys on these late JAP spec cars showing up. Steve (CTR) 

Steve I've fitted a few diff bearings over the years with Loctite 680. None ever came loose again. It's good stuff.

I kind of figured most have been returned to service. I agree when doing one on your own you can do things you may not sell. I have several and would like to have ten with this problem before setting up a repair. Always looking for a better way to get there. Steve (CTR)

I thnk you know the right answer and the rest of your options are simply a set-up to launch a pre-determined opinion/take on this.

But I'll answer your question anyway: It depends on how loose the fit is.

I have punched two maybe 3 diff cage snouts (didn't take notice if they were A or A+-- it's been a while), but upon removal and reinspection they still show evidence of spinning. At this point, my personal opinion is that the dimpling/punching is more a means to center the bearing and loctite sleeve retainer does the work.

I have recently used loctite sleeve sealer without dimpling (because I felt the fit was loose, but not enough to demonstrate a discernible "rock" from the bearing to cage fit). Subsequent disassembly and reinspection shows it holds very well under the track use where I've put them in service. In fact, trying to pull the bearing off the shouts results in lots of cursing and frequently popping the bearing apart to make it go more smoothly and to not risk damaging the bearing.

I also have used the locitte sleeve retainer on the aforementioned previously dimpled cages but those units are still assembled and I have not needed to disassemble them for other reasons. These are LeMons motors/transmissions.

A lot of the A+ boxes I've found do not use paper gasket material in the diff housing to case seal-- just black silicone. That makes a different in fit, I've found.

If I have a tail housing that doesn't squeeze the bearing outer tightly enough even without paper gasket, I wipe it across a flad slab with sand paper adhered to it and take a few thou off as necessary to get the fit I want.

The above is all for my own stuff.

If I had a "customer" or someone I was working on the stuff for, I would present the options and related material costs to them and let them decide what they wanted me to do. 

A street car that racks up 10K miles in 5 years or so, IMHO, really doesn't need to be refurbished to perfect factory spec in the diff department in order to make the car enjoyable.  The stuff that I've taken apart over the years that was still in regular service or otherwise showed no issue is astonishing. I've even seen a 1275 motor that had a bore cut for +.030 running just great but smokey with +.020 pistons in it. How many transmissions have you pulled apart to just swap a diff out in and found the layshaft and laygear to be frightfully chewed up, but there was no symptoms of potential or iminent failure?

Sometimes if you only drive the car half the time, half-assed repairs are good enough. "Customers" don't expect half-assed repairs when you are charging them for the work. 

I have recently noticed that most of the A+ diff. cages I have removed from late DAM 5626 trannys have loose ball bearing on cage end. I have not seen it on the gear side. It would seem the bearing would rather be a ball bearing than metal to metal where it should be a press fit. I also recently had a DAM 5626 with the diff. ball bearings turning in the case( no crush fit there) as well. Was it poor machine work, failure to pre load bearing? 

Next what have people been doing?

1 center punch the diff and go ahead.

2 use a chemical press fit in a bottle.

3 just stick a new one on and never look back.

4 take out of service. ( This is what I feel I have to do. )

If you have taken yours out of service and did not throw it away I need them. Working on a repair. Might only be reasonable if doing a bunch. Let me know what you have. Steve (CTR)