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 Polishing needles for tuning, it works

 Created by: jchealey
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 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 04:32PM
jeg
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I've been doing this for years, finally decided to change from biased to fixed to make it easier. 

Recent Thread: //www.minimania.com/msgThread/116454/1/1/Converting_from_HIF_Biased_Needle_to_Fixed

Quote:
Originally Posted by jeg

UPDATE:  Works a treat! 

Yeah, you bet; better 0.090" needle selection, it's also easier to quickly modify a needle if you don't have the spring platform to contend with (place in a drill chuck on low-speed (I use a strip of 420, then 800 and finish polishing with 2000 wet/dry) and minutes later, back in the car).  It's also not necessary to center the jet as one would with HS series carbs.  Reduced jet wear is also a consideration. 

The AUD 4253 22mm needle lock screw is nice, but the head needs trimming down and re-slotting, so after repeated calls to Berlen Fuel Systems, I lucked upon the AUC 2057 needle lock screw which, although shorter in overall length as it's also suitable for HS2 pistons, works just fine. 

So, all my HIF38's are sporting double ignition vacuum take-off nipples and I've got a pair fitted with fixed needles, one with AAM and another with AAA (modified). 

Just need to sell some of the other carbs now; have a few HS4's, an extra low-mileage 'Metro' HIF38 (has all new seals & float valve assembly, ultrasonic cleaned & no wear or play on throttle shaft - no need to re-bush/replace it), an HIF44, a pair of HS2's with air-cleaner (my old ones, re-bought, though the guy I bought them back from painted the metal air-cleaner housing Tahiti Blue) yet still to rebuild.  I might modify these, though, to get a little more air-flow and put them on the car.  Dunno yet, there's something sexy about twins.

 
Joe Curto has a similar device (WZX 2003/2004), and his is complete; screw and piston adapter.

 

 

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 04:26PM
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I think the only thing I would like to change right now is the fuel dump on acceleration. I am getting too much right now. I put in a thinner oil into the dashpots (5wt) and that helped a little. Anyone know another way to stop the fuel dump?

By the way, 50 hours is about right. Changing needles, adjusting the flats on the carbs, trying other needles and starting over. But, if you understand the portions of the needles, you can make adjustments by polishing.

Oh, and you need a butt dyno.

Jerry

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 04:13PM
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I spent about 50 man hours profiling the needle for my 1-3/4" SU a year or so ago.  I got it dialed in exactly like I wanted it.  I can say that the car ran so much smoother with a profile that matched the flow characteristics of my engine.  Well worth the time IMO.  I'm glad to hear someone else here spent the time to play around with needle profiling.

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 11:55AM
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THey work, but not well. I think I may have bought the wipers for a later car. The hood hits the chrome part that slides onto the gear when it is open all the way. I substituted the wipers off my TR3, and no hits with the hood. So the part that fits on the hood is smaller. May have to fix that.

Jerry

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 11:35AM
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CA


Good info.

At least your wipers will work IF it rains while driving......and you're legal

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 21, 2014 10:28AM
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My car is 60s mix up with a 1380, 286 cam, twin 1.5 SU and getting the needles to work with the air flow has been a bit of trial and test. I put ALL the available needles through the minty program and tested on the road three of them and the mixture just did not work well. So I looked up polishing needles on the internet and found a few good articles. I was running rich at 1.4 throttle but lean at 1/2 and beyond. Following the instructions now has the car running much better at 1/2 throttle and beyond, air flow meter in the 13s. Still rich at lower throttle and you have to press slowly on the throttle to get the engine up to over 3000 rpm and then it goes like a rocket. Butt dyno says fun! It is all air flow and carburetor combo at this point. I think given a choice I would have gone with the next level down cam to keep the power range a little lower. I really don't use much above 5000 rpm as I am already speeding greatly by that time. I can finally say, that the car has become a daily driver. It is a little loud on the freeway running at 3800 rpm for a long drive. Might have to work on some earplugs. The only thing I still have a problem with is the wipers. Slow and non existent if there is not water on the windshield. I did take apart and clean the rack, motor, and everything works on the bench but not much power out of the unit. I have taken apart about 10 of these units and this is the only one that has been temperamental. The brushes were 3/4, and the armature was cleaned up on my lathe. Oh well, I don't have to drive it in the rain, I do have a truck.

Jerry 68 mini

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