on the plus side Malcolm you can smoke the cigar after you re done with the job LOL

agree but without the engine working? i cant have the car rev below 1500rpm it stalls.. and i need to take my time.. besides its the weekend!! it ll be fun!!

That seems like a lot of work when checking for an air leak when an unlit propane torch or a can of starting fluid would achieve the same results Dimitris.

i ll be working in a basement and i've read about dry ice, thats needs extra caution when used in closed areas such it might cause suffocation..

use dry ice instead,,, a lot safer

gonna try this! 

while listening to this will be fun

Alex i've replaced the bushes and the shaft! and felt really neat..no sticking or anything.. will get the carb fitted again and spray some WD see if i can locate the leak..

If you've just changed the seals then that won't cure worn bushes - which are made of brass and need honing to size as mentioned before.

also will try a double gasket JUST in case the face of the carb is distorted... i've seen in with intakes why not carbs...

unfortunately i dont have a camera.. but will try to borrow one and post some pics! can anybody set a list of possible spots that the carb can suck unwanted air?  thanks in advance

Can you post a photo of both sides of your current install? Someone may see something you have overlooked.

guys i'm giving up! it sucks air and i cant find where from... i've changed the dashpot, the piston, installed a service kit all seals and gaskets possible and it still sucks air... it wont idle and it will stall but when i cut some air with my palm in the intake it stabilizes and works Ok.... its driving me nuts once again...

I'm guessing the early type ( HIF4,6 ) was a different mould than the later ( HIF38,44 )...hence the different diameter seal ......(?)

i installed both at first! but the shaft was so worn it wouldnt seal! so thats the reason i'm renewing it! how would you fit the early type then?

Image Gallery

This is how the old seal came out of the one I reconditioned.  There are 2 types of throttle shaft seal, however, so you might need to refer to the second image.

should the bevel side of the shaft seal face the carb body?

well i removed the old ones yesterday slightly tapping them, cleaned the bore with cloth and then i pushed a spare set quite easily with slight taps. I got your point Alex but it worked ok, i put it all back together and no sticking.. hope i didnt do anything wrong! tuning will tell...

Replacing the bushings isn't as simple as just pushing them out and pushing new ones in. 
They need to be line honed to size once installed, making sure that the spindle is exactly at 90º to the butterfly valve in two dimensions or it may stick.

I rebuilt one 2 weeks ago on the kitchen counter; it's now for sale if anyone needs one.  The body was stripped completely down, untrasonic cleaned and re-assembled with new viton float valve and new seat.  The throttle shaft and bushes showed almost no wear at all, so they were re-used, as was the jet.  All in all, it's ready to go at a good price.

I assembled the throttle shaft seals and the starter spindle O-rings and cap-seal with just a light bit of light machine oil; oiled my finger tips and massaged it onto the seal.  For the throttle spindle seals, I oiled them from the 'inside', as not to gunk them up and attract dust or dirt later on.

i need to replace the throttle spindle and bushings! should i apply any grease or fit them dry?

thanks in advance