Dan.....it's not so much the cable in the way, as the terminals themselves.....as seen here

I should be fine for now, but if I were to fit a 1.75" ID pipe there...it'll be squeeky tight

I have a muffler shop make my connecter pipes up with the various bends exactly where they need to be.

An alternate solution might be to put a solenoid MK 1 - style in the engine bay, with the battery cable running continuously back to front and control the solenoid with the floor switch and smaller wiring (say 12 - 14 ga) which can be (maybe) tucked out of the way of the exhaust tube. Original look and feel, safer control of the starter, main battery cable away from heat and no changes to loom in dash.

I tried finding pictures of our wagons, but cannot seem to locate them right now.

64 has remote button and did have remote change will now be moving to rod change. The long pipe does have the kink to help navigate around everything and yes it is very close to the switch.

65 has key start with rod change and it also has the kink as mentioned by Zip.

Terry

Yes sir I am!

Email me  please Sean.

Matthew

Hey Spitz,

I have an extra 1128 4 sync box with a magic wand housing... It is the setup I have for my wagon. Best of both worlds if you are interested

Sean

Thnanks Zip.

Ian....although not original now ( PO ), I would like to not detour any further.  I don't want to enlarge the starter hole size for example ( which would be necessary, I think, with your suggestion ).
If I had a magic wand box laying around.....I would indeed reverse the set-up

As we are discussing a co-fitting of a remote box with a floor start we can presume "originality" is not a major concern?

If true, then why not mount the floor start above the floor on a fabricated bracket??  The main problem with insulation is removed once you no longer have to contend with exhaust heat....

Cheers, Ian

For the floor mounted starter button maybe you could search for "90 degree heat shrink boot" I found this: https://www.compaero.com/viewitem.aspx?id=78

I'm sure there's countless sources. maybe a decent auto parts store might have something suitable.

As far as the exhaust goes, Maniflow makes a special system (not on their website) for rod-change Mokes that has a kink in it. Might be worthwhile to contact them with your problem. I'm sure they've encountered this problem far more than a Moke with an inferior shift. (I'm perfectly happy with my magic wand, pudding stirrer)

Someone else must have this configuration

Not much clearance there to fit a bigger than stock pea shooter pipe......is there a way around this without shorting the starter button?  Also, is there a good way to insulate the terminals?