Good advice Stu, though he is looking at new MINIs (aka BINIs).

 

One thing only. Pay the most you can and focus solely on getting the best shell you can....then keep it nice. Forget getting the most shagged Mk1 S you can find and it costing you 10 years off your life and $50k

I'm going to agree with this.  If you budget won't let you get the updated N18 R56 engine then the last year of the R53 is the way to go.  

Mike,

This is my personal opinion. By an extremely nice 2006 MCS with low miles (50-60K miles). You will have a supercharger, (no notorious "turbo-drag") You can buy one with the JCW package, (just be sure it is Factory installed, and not an add-on after thought) Make sure the power steering pump and fan have been replaced, (Factory pays parts & labor to replace the faulty original) Forget the bumper to bumper. Just drive it.               Mini Estate

I would confirm the bumper to bumper includes the clutch (it probably won't) and carbon buildup.  The pre N18 (N16 i think) turbo engines have a fairly bad issue around this.

It's a 2009 Mini Cooper with JCW package, 66k miles.  It drive fine it great for that matter.  They want $13.650 after primary negotiation.  Warranty is $2400 for bumper to bumper financed at 2.37%.

Hi Mike,

What year of MCS with JCW package??? You didn't say.              Mini Estate

 

I would try to get a MINI that is a N18 engine.  They fixed a few things around carbon buildup.  Not sure when the JCW switched over, but the Cooper S did it in early 2011.  I think the JCW went in 2012.  Best bet on the new MINIs is to get a certified one w/ a warranty.  My 2011 had the remander of the factory maintenace and i was able to get a new clutch/flywheel installed right before it expired.

I understand that any car can have issues at any time, and a clutch can fail whenever as well, but with an extended warranty, isn't that covered (full, bumper to bumper)?   Or is there another loop hole for a warranty not be covered?

My thought is this, is it on the safer side to buy a used MCS manual with 66k miles with a warranty and feel the car "should" be just fine, or are Mini's that unreliable at higher mileage and even with an extended warranty it will be a money pit.?   

This used car only has had one owner with service from BMW and the outside body is perfect.  Everything seems ideal for the mileage, but I don't know mechanical stuff and what to worry about.   The clutch going out is a good idea to watch for or expect, but my extended warranty should cover that.

Thoughts?  

Thanks,

Mike

Hoping you have better luck than I did. My 2010 Clubman S fell apart at 70K. I bought it new and had every recommended maintenance plus more oil changes than BMW recommends. I loved my car.

But at 70K, I took it in for a clutch replacement and other parts fell apart in the mechanic's hands on his way to the clutch. I spent $4300 in four weeks, deferred another $2000, and traded in the car (for something NOT built by BMW).

By the mileage of the JCW you're considering, you can expect a clutch replacement soon (unless its already been done), a $1500 job (or more at a dealership) if all goes well.

I still have my classic Mini. It runs great and I can wrench on it myself.

Ok, so looking at a MCS with JCW package, 66k miles, very clean outside and it ran great on the test drive.   A/C blows cold and nothing jumps out as warning signs.   Buying a bumper to bumper ext warranty if I purchase it too.   Only one owner and a clean carfax.

Thoughts are buying this and keeping it until 150k miles ?

Thoughts?

Thanks,

Mike

Hi Mike,

Difficult to say....  My standard answer may apply - 'get the newest car you can afford within your budget'.

As for longevity - the supercharger 'can' have issues if the s/c oil leaks - the turbo 'can' have issues if the oil was not changed frequently.....

We have seen both Gen 1 and Gen 2 MINIs go well over 200k, so we know it is not an unreasonable expectation....

Sorry we can't be more help.

Ken

BIMI.s..  .  this is mostly a classic mini sight..

There are Minis and MINIS. Minis are the real thing. MINIS are the abortions Oldminimover is referring to.

2005/2006 is better to keep long term. The super charger can last a long time you just have to change the oil in it, here is a link about how to do it on this site //new.minimania.com/How_to_Change_the_Oil_in_a_R53_Mini_Cooper_Supercharger

With proper maintenance their's no reason you can't keep it for life just depends how many miles you plan on driving it and how much you're willing to spend to keep it on the road. Everything wears out at some point on every car made, I guess you are asking if the MINI is worse than others? I would say not really with proper maintenance although there is more to proper maintenance on a MINI or mini compared to a toyota camery.

Jeff

If you know a car is going to have a major future expense, use that as a bargaining chip.

The best mini to keep for 20 years is the original mini. In 20 years, it will be worth more than you paid, and all 2005-2009 MINIs will be in the junkyard.

Not sure what you mean?

 

- Mike

Please use upper case when referring to the 2002-2015 abortion

Thank you

Hello, 

I am in the market to buy a used mini cooper S manual.

I had the 2005 MCS manual with 55k and sold it but loved the driving feel (needed a family suv).  I want to buy another 2005/2006 (because of the supercharger) with 50-70k miles but am concerned of the supercharger going out before my payments are done at 60 month payments.  I drive about 12k miles a years and heard the supercharger goes out at 100k.

I am also looking at a MCS manual with JCW 2009 and 65k miles.   Again, my only concern is, will this last (the engine) until I get it paid off in 60months.

I also wanted to know if I buy a used MCS, can I keep it for life with the needed tuneups?   Is the 2009 model a better choice for the next 20 years or is the 2006 fine, with repairs/maintenance of course.

I do not want to buy new.

I know that the big factor is previous owners and how they took care of it.  My main thought, which is better to keep 20 years, 2005/2006 or newer based on the turbo/supercharger and parts replacement.

Thanks.

Mike