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 Posted: Oct 4, 2015 03:02PM
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You just can't leave your classic mini in the garage when there are days and days of dry left!

So I went to the hardware store and found some brushes that were almost the right size. I was able to grind them down and get them to fit. I installed then and voila they worked! Until they didn't. The problem is the wire comes out the center. I was able to fold over the wire so the spring would push on the center. That was all fine and good until the spring rubbed the wire OFF the brush. I was about an hour away with my wife and two of my girls when the light started blinking on and off.

I stopped at an antique store to inspect.

I could see the brush was not in right but I didn't have the tools to work on it. Luckily the owner of the store came out and was very interested in the car. He also knew a thing or two about electrical systems and generators, (and had tools). I got the gen off, pulled the cap and found the broken wire. We went inside and dug out a soldering iron, flux and solder. I soldered the little cup from the other end of the wire onto the brush and reinstalled it. (Yes, I did the other one too).

We put it all together and started it up. FIXED (again for the 13th time). I drove another hour plus home with not one single hiccup.

I love people who just love to keep things on the road, even if it isn't theirs.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Oct 2, 2015 02:50PM
 Edited:  Oct 2, 2015 03:07PM
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never mind got it...going to the post office now

 Posted: Oct 2, 2015 03:22AM
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TTF I'll take em. Email me at marklooman at comcast.net.

I'd go with an alternator but I really like the genuine look.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Oct 1, 2015 09:38PM
 Edited:  Oct 1, 2015 09:43PM
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I have a used generator...well 2.  One just came off my car as I finally put an alternator on.  Should fit in a flat rate box.  How about $25 shipped...$10 for the generator and $15 for shipping in a flat rate box or $35 for both. 

 

If you put on an alternator you won't need the voltage regulator anymore

 Posted: Oct 1, 2015 03:48PM
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The saga lives on. Fix the symptoms and you'll find more symptoms. Fix the problems and you'll find something else to repair.

The light was taking longer and longer to go off so I bought a new battery. Fixed for a little while. I drove about an hour today to a meeting. Half way there I noticed the light was on. I revved the engine and it went off. For a while. I got to my meeting, left and headed home. The light was persistent so I stopped to inspect the voltage regulator. Upon removing the cover I noticed that one of the coils was shiny black instead of shiny anodized red. the lead to the points was a dark reddish copper color and there was ooze coming out of the now black coil. Something wasn't right. I did a little adjusting and got the points to connect sooner. This got me home with no light on.

Tonight I took it for a short ride and the light wouldn't go off. I got home and did a google search on how to test the generator. The first video said you can connect the F and D terminal on the generator, take the belt off and power the lead. It should spin. It didn't. I rotated the generator and found only one small point in the rotation that worked.

Anyone got a used Generator and Voltage Regulator for sale?

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 28, 2015 06:04AM
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I took it for a long ride last night. At mid and high speed everything is fine. I drove a 10 mph road around a lake with the spots on. By the time I got back to the entrance the light was on and it ran a little rough. I got up to speed and it ran fine (light off). I think my battery is the next thing to replace. Then I'll know for sure if I'm putting out enough power.

I guess in all this EVERY thing you guys suggested were the problem.

Thanks again for your worldly help on this. I LOVE the forum. My screen name says it all, thanks for the wisdom to HELP MY MINI!

P.S. I keep buying from our sponsor to keep the site alive.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 27, 2015 02:13PM
 Edited:  Sep 27, 2015 02:14PM
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The culprit: Brushes. I took the dynamo out and pulled the end cap. I thought I was seeing things when the brush sat there at an angle. Ends up the brushes I got had the wire directly in the middle of it. That caused the spring to rest on one end and wear unevenly. That wasn't the problem but once one brush got worn to the spring it gave way. I can only assume the dynamo was working overtime to make enough juice.

Bottom line, the belt was a little on the loose side but the brushes looked like the actual issue.

I solved it short term by filing down some starter brushes to fit. While it was out I cleaned and painted the dynamo and coil mount. MUCH better.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 27, 2015 05:31AM
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GR

its straight forward to get the belt out! take it off the alt pulley then slowly rotate the fan by hand and over each blade carefully. Some rad shrouds have a curved gap to feed the belt easily..

 Posted: Sep 27, 2015 05:31AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by helpmymini
The battery is old, and likely could use replacing, but it starts the car with gusto each time. The belt does seem suspect as it is old and only tensioned to the max of what the bracket allows. I'm still concerned how the light is reacting to RPMs. At low idle it is on fairly bright. Then as you accelerate the engine it gets brighter and brighter until it goes off. Most times (with no other electronics on) you have to rev the engine to 6k to get it to 'catch' and go off. Then, at regular RPMs, it will stay off. I need to get the time to replace and tension the new belt. I'm still open to any other options. I can maneuver the belt over the fan can't I? That's gonna be a beoch to get the shroud and fan off otherwise. Damn that Issigonis.

Yes. There should be a place on the shroud where it is manufactured with a larger space from the fan to help with removal, usually it is on the top right looking from the clutch side and is clearly visible. On the MK 1's they can be a bit of a bear to remove at the crank pulley due to the radiator bracket.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Sep 27, 2015 05:13AM
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The battery is old, and likely could use replacing, but it starts the car with gusto each time. The belt does seem suspect as it is old and only tensioned to the max of what the bracket allows.

I'm still concerned how the light is reacting to RPMs. At low idle it is on fairly bright. Then as you accelerate the engine it gets brighter and brighter until it goes off. Most times (with no other electronics on) you have to rev the engine to 6k to get it to 'catch' and go off. Then, at regular RPMs, it will stay off.

I need to get the time to replace and tension the new belt. I'm still open to any other options.

I can maneuver the belt over the fan can't I? That's gonna be a beoch to get the shroud and fan off otherwise. Damn that Issigonis.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 10:04PM
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mark:

At low speed, the belt can slip enough that the gen is not spinnig fast enough to charge the battery and the light stays on.

Other things to check:

How old is the battery?

Battery terminals for corrosion

Wire terminals on voltage regulator and starter solenoid.

Clean, shiny metal connectors are what you want. The OEM connectors on the small wires are brass and oxidize over time.

There was a post on here not long ago that had a link for a company that builds alternators into Lucas generator housings. Somebody reading this probably knows.

Charm is nice if you want to win the concours, but your battery will last longer with an alternator. Alts were standard with negative ground.

Have Fun,

Russ

 

 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 08:33PM
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The belt is stretched. I'm at the max length on the adjustment. I'll get a new belt soon and repost.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 01:30PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CA2SBL1275

Mark:

How long has it been since you checked your fan belt adjustment?


Russ

+1

 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 12:25PM
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It could use a little tightening, but the issue is when it is at low to mid speed, not high. I'm going to tighten it shortly. Wouldn't that be a simple fix!

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 12:15PM
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Mark:

How long has it been since you checked your fan belt adjustment?


Russ

 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 11:02AM
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On the contrary, I've been putting on hundreds if not thousands of miles lately. Finally got the car sorted so I'm making up for lost time! I did however drive in two monsoons. I recall a few years back I burned up the brushes. Maybe it's that time again?

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 10:57AM
meb
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If you haven't driven the car much or lately washed the engine and water got in the generator, could be the brushes are sticking.

 Posted: Sep 26, 2015 10:18AM
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Recently I noticed my generator light was taking a little longer to go off after low idle. Last night I was driving for a bit and noticed it was on and bright. I pushed the clutch in and revved the engine and it went off. The moment I flipped on the flamethrowers it came back on bright.

A) is my generator losing it's umph?

B) are my brushes wearing thin?

C) can a voltage regulator go 'out of tune' so to speak?

I really don't want to convert to an alternator because I want to keep the original charm. I can't afford those old looking alternators that look like dynamos either.

I'm hoping one or more of you can say, "yup, it's letter (X)" or give me more insight on what NOT to throw money at.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S