The top tilting in is "negative camber". Camber on a road is the slight arching curve from one side, up to the middle and down to the other side. Positive camber (e.g. on a horse-drawn wagon) would set the tire patch fully on a cambered road. Positive camber, as on a trailer axle does this too. Some negative camber aids in cornering because the outward tilt of the car and suspension flex would (in very simple terms) stand the wheel vertically, providing maximum road contact.

I too have an issue with my Traveller's right rear.
When I bought it, the tyre was well worn on the inside.
When I put a level on the wheel, it has a noticeable camber ( top tilts in ).  Not sure what would cause that

I have a camber/toe set of brackets I've never fitted to a car....so may try this in the spring.  With the price of tyres now, can't afford them to wear

Following this thread with interest

Sorry about that. Now that I see it again my wording was a bit confusing!

I guess I misinterpreted turning the wheels out to mean 'outwards at the front' as in left side like this \ and right side like / as seen from the rear of the car looking forward.  That would be Toe Out, whereas / \ as seen from the same vantage point be Toe In.

Thanks Ian! I've been wondering what the angle between the pivot and the axle was supposed to be. When I have my whole garage back I'll probably drop the rear sub you out and tear into this problem more.

Back in the day most race teams had a simple tool to check the shape of the rear arm.  I basically consisted of two pieces of metal curtain rod about two feet long.  One fitted though the trailing arm pivot and the other fitted over the sub axle.  If the two rods were parallel then everything was fine...

Cheers, Ian

Could it be that the bushings in the rear arm are reamed at a angle? seems like it's normally the other way (toe out) that people run out of adjustment. Your idea will work it's done often enough I would slot the inner hole and then adjust and tack weld a flat washer to keep it in place. Or stick something in the slot to keep it from moving. 

Jeff

No, it's the other way around. I have adjusted the trailing arms to turn the wheels out for maximum toe-in, but it isn't enough. If the trailing arms or axle shafts aren't bent, the only option I can see is repositioning the inboard pivot points, moving them to the rear of the subframe to allow more toe-in adjustment.

That looks like it might work...

Edit: This is my screenshot of the reply -

So, you'd like more toe-out in order that you may adjust to the correct toe-in, correct?

Assuming your radius arms aren't bent, which is not unheard of - most likely caused by a lateral shunt to the rear wheel assembly at some time, then these can do wonders.

Insert these shims as required (part number 'CK17', found at MiniSpares - host doesn't have them), guidelines and info is on the MiniSpares website. When inserted between the radius arm bracket and the vertical face of the subframe, you'll increase toe out. From the product description: "One shim gives approximately 10' (ten minutes - part of a degree) of tracking adjustment."

Hmmm, can't post a link and all of the formatting functions are gone... Gotta love it...

I've installed adjustable brackets for toe-in and camber on the rear wheels and have them maxed out for toe-in and camber. The toe measures at Zero and the camber is right at zero also. I'm going to attempt to move them again, but what is there to look at or modify to make the adjustments possible? Questions I have are:

Does anyone have experience with bent axle shafts? If they were bent back, the toe would be biased out and there doesn't seem to be a lot of adjustment possible to make them toed-in to begin with.

The only option I can see with the parts on my Mini is to relocate the inboard pivot holes on the subframe where the trailer arms are attached. Any experience with doing that?

The subframe is a Heritage late model that I bought a few years back. I know the exhaust mounts are different between early and late subframes, but are there other differences that effect the trailing arm locations?

Hey, any information or experience you might have with problems like this, please let me know.
Thanks all!