As I've said before.... I would be (strongly) advising the owner to take it to someone who knows what they are doing ..before its completely stuffed...

Ian

If you are sure you did what was suggested here,  the pump or entire engine is probably shot...so just start the damn thing and you will soon figure it out.  Then scrap it and install a Honda.

Ill try it. I don't exactly have the banjo bolt, um just using a high pressure hose type thing but it works the same. How likely is a clog?  Im so sick of this car. 

If there is oil in that outlet and the engine is rotated backwards, then oil will be drawn into the pump. If the engine is then rotated forwards, the pump will expel that oil. If nothing happens, the pump is not turning.

Remove the spark plugs.

Take the banjo bolt out of the top of the oil transfer pipe.

Fill the hole in the block with oil until it is juuuust lapping into the banjo.

SLOWLY turn the engine backwards - either by hand or by pushing the car backwards with 4th gear selected.

Watch the oil level in the block through the banjo.

When it drops out of sight top it back up again as before.

Repeat until you've put at least half a pint (preferably a pint) down through the oil pump backwards.

Fill the oil transfer pipe with oil.

Replace the banjo bolt.

Crank the engine with the plugs removed.

Well I had the pressure relief valve in and it didn't suck it in. The engine has its correct amount of oil, I think I have a full 5qts in? Dipstick reads a little over. I tried pushing it in with compressed air too, but nothing will be pumped in. 

What he said.

And are you sure there's oil in the sump?

If you moved the car more than a few feet, you clearly are doing it wrong.

The oil pressure relief valve must be properly installed when you do this. If it is not in place, then the oil will just flow down into the sump via the oil pressure relief passageways and not prime the pump.

Oil will not really flow through the oil pump, so, when you remove the Banjo bolt from the oil transfer pipe and squirt oil in with an oil can or fit a funnel, only a small amount or oil will enter. It will quickly overflow. If the engine is then rotated the wrong way, this oil will be drawn into the pump and the pump will displace the oil into the pickup side of the system. Since there is not much oil there, the oil in the outlet passageway will soon all be drawn into the pump, and you would need to pour or squirt more in.

Once the pump has oil inside it, it will easily draw oil up from the sump, unless there is some other issue.

And we literally rode it backwards at like 10mph on the street. Nothing. 

I tried everything as you all have said and it refuses to suck oil in. The oil pressure release hole is dry, sender hole is dry, everything is dry. How likely is a clog? 

Just had this recently on a motor that was sitting for about 8 months.

First, as others have said, feed oil into the hole in the block where the banjo fitting is. I like to use a funnel that more or less can thread somewhat into that hole, fill it up and let it sit a while, then spin the motor backwards, let it sit, repeat until you can visibly see it suck oil into block as you rotate the motor backwards. If the oil level never goes down indicating that oil never goes into the block and into the oil pump, you may need to use compressed air to force it into the pump. Once that pump is "wet", it should start to take the oil in.

after you've fed about 1/3-1/2 qt (yes, seems excessive but sounds like you should do this to try and fill the pickup tube partially down to the sump), thread the banjo bolt and fitting back in but unscrew your oil filter. Then crank over the engine with the oil filter unscrewed until you have oil pouring out all over the place down by the filter. Then screw your filter back up snug and crank some more. 

As others have also said, do this cranking with the plugs out.

I would encourage you to do this final cranking (With filter snug, plugs out) with the oil sending hole wide open, no gauge line or sensor hooked up. Once you've got oil coming out of that hole, thread your hose or sender switch back in and crank away.

Oh, and make sure your battery is 100%. I once built a motor for someone and installed it and couldn't get oil pressure after all of that. Ended up pulling the engine and separating the trans and checking my work. Reinstalled it and same problem. Turned out the battery was too weak AND the battery line under the floorpan was arching and sucking away power because of a broken casing.

Good luck!

The first step is to pull the spark plugs and just spin the engine on the starter...  A few 10 or so second bursts should get the pressure up.

If not, remove the block to filter pipe and pour oil into the hole (in the block while winding the engine backwards... 10 or 12 revs should do ..noting that I've never done this as step 1 has always worked for me.  

I wouldn't worry about the gauge.  Loosen (don't remove) the oil gauge fitting - or sensor if no gauge - and spin the engine with the plugs out.  As soon as you have pressure it will be obvious ..... have  a rag handy

Cheers, Ian

So you undid the oil pipe, poured some oil in….had the car in a forward gear and rolled it backwards….and no oil was sucked in?
Maybe it needs a bit more fed in?
Gauge is known to be working?

• Well it was finally time to start the engine, but of course its not going to go smooth. So we are trying to get oil pressure and have none. This engines been sitting for a few years so I tried that "roll the car back with the oil in the fitting, but It wouldn't suck it back. Also took out the pressure relief valve, and it was really dirty. Blew compressed air thru and didn't blow thru until I pulled out the valve. Any ideas on where to start?