BORRRRRing. Jemal and Larry, move on, or take it off-line. 

All you accomplish with your snide remarks and board anonymity cupcake, is to emphasize your ignorance for all to see!  I've had complaints about you, sitting in your dark corner, lobbing insults from the safety of your couch.  Nice going!  All my counseling about looking for an argument where none exists, and all you are able to do is offer more insults and sideways snide comments! 

It is a foolish assumption that the "problem" is "cured"!  It's not a problem and there is no cure!  It's physics, and by the nature of your comments, that's certain to be over your head.   But if simplistic thinking makes you happy, have at it!!

I know, I know.... I should follow my own advice and let dumb-ass comments reflect on their author.  But it's so much fun!  Do you think our reality show culture has trained our species to look for drama and conflict where none should be?  I helped Kent with an order this morning, and we had a laugh about it.

Well done Kolsen you solved the problem rather than just curing the symptom like Jemal suggested. With Jemal's faulty thinking all the guy with the detonation problem needs to do is turn up the volume on his radio. 

Like I said before it's hard to express one's self with a keyboard.  We all have various experiences to fall back on and some get a little fuzzy as the years go by.  Such as my previous experience with SU carbs.  It comes back slowly and with those who contributed to this post it helps.  I met Jemal at Mini Mania and respect his advise but as he and I said previously this car wasn't what it was advertised to be.  With me being a newby on the Classic Mini I appreciate his and all of your experiences as I stumble around learning the car.

Now if you want to know about early Porsche's give me a call as I have rebuilt everything on my 72 and have the 236,000 miles to prove it.

Thank you Chuck, adding to what I said about the famous Mini racer... that is all the "anti run on" devices do!  I do not advocate "dumping" the clutch however! Simply put the car in first, cover the clutch and brake, release the clutch until the engine drags a bit, and turn of the key.

I continue to be astounded at how militant some of you people get!  Several times I have said something to effect of "this works 100% of the time, but do whatever makes you happy".  Most of the time I try to make this fun, and much of what I say is tongue in cheek... Kolson and I know these cars are for FUN!! 

I do apologize if some of you are unable to keep things light hearted, but I do know what I'm talking about! I originally identified Kent's car after the PO embellished the listing severely!  Remember it was advertised as a Mark 1 with a cross-flow head? I've spoken with him about it so I do know more detail than was given here, and tried to politely let you all know this!   Still, some of you are only happy if you are able to find something "wrong", and make an argument out of giving simple advice.  You must find a way to discredit others, so that your view can shove it's way to the front!  I am able to offer out of the box solutions, but I do understand that many are just more comfortable in their box!   Now, if I owned a service facility.... OH YES!! There is DEFINITELY something wrong if your car runs on!  Let me make you an appointment!  Hmm, it didn't do it before?.... Lets see, a few hundred dollars later.... Oh look, you have a high compression engine... the temperature has warmed up as we go into late Spring....  perhaps you need premium fuel... Why don't we take the head off and clean all the carbon in your combustion chamber, only about $800....  But I bet you could just use the clutch to GENTLY stop it..... FREE!! 

"Depending on your tuning and the gas you buy, it is well worth it to add a bottle of Techron to the tank every 3000 to 5000 mile. It cleans up the combustion chamber."

Will Techron harm a wideband O2 sensor?

 Just something else to add to this "interesting" thread...

While you're trying to figure out if the run on is a timing issue, a carbon issue, a spark plug issue, a fuel issue, etc., try being a bit easier on the clutch, various bushings, and motor mounts. Rather than dumping the clutch to stop the run on (and assuming you're using an SU carb), as soon as the ignition key is turned off, floor the throttle pedal. The wide open throttle will up the air side of the air/fuel mixture dramatically and, unless you have serious run on issues, will stop the run on.

Well I filled up with Premium, drove home 15 miles, reset the idle and she turns off without the run on.
Thanks everyone for your advice.

Obviously timing has to be right for the engine, and I don't go by timing lights, but setting the most advanced possible that does not ping.


Dieseling when shut off is caused by carbon buildup inside the combustion chamber. This carbon reduces the size of the chamber, effectively increasing your compression ratio, requiring better gas. But it also turns red hot when the engine is running. So when you shut off the engine this red hot carbon ignites the fuel without a spark.


Depending on your tuning and the gas you buy, it is well worth it to add a bottle of Techron to the tank every 3000 to 5000 mile. It cleans up the combustion chamber. I once bought a used Grand Cherokee that pinged and ran on with premium gas that was not always available and cost twice as much as regular. After two tanks with Techron I could use regular gas.With the small Mini tank, I'd use the whole bottle the first time, then even a half bottle every 3000 would maintain it.

Distributor and timing will have to wait till later.  Burned enough fuel to put some premium in tomorrow.  There is a lope at idle I didn't notice before as I was waiting for a train to move, so it might have a little cam.  

Having never driven a front wheel drive vehicle fast I took it on my test road just now.  Point and stab the throttle doesn't work, it still under steers like my old Corvette, not so the Porsche.  Normal entry and power out from the apex works more like I'm used to.  But boy-o-boy does it stop !!!

The correct 7/16" clamp screw normally has a slot across the top - sometimes one can use a beefy screwdriver to access it.  If you remove the vacuum unit, be sure to secure the 2 halves of the baseplate to prevent 'incidental' advancing due to vibrations.  If you're using contact breaker points (I can't be bthered to read everything), it's possible to use a longer points securing screw through the front to clamp the back-side.

Um, I think you meant 4° increments.

Not me for sure it takes a whole lot more than these shenanigans. Dan that is why i offered to discuss this with Kolsen off line. The point is Kolsen wants to set up his car and make it run right Jemal just wants him to throw high octane fuel in it and stall it when he stops not caring if it is set up right. Sorry that is not the way an "experienced" engine builder should talk or resolve a problem without it being set up correctly first. He can leave my posts alone as far as i care i am addressing Kolsens problem.

You know I do get a kick out of your comments.  One thing I found out with one of my daughters is face to face communications is nothing like texting or emailing.  She would always say "Oh that's what your meant !"

Anyway now the nut holding the fork on the distributor is blocked by the can for the vacuum advance which is not used.  Maybe I could get to it from the bottom?  Brother !!

So I went back the Porsche installed a convex mirror I ordered for my Cobra rear view drivers side mirror.  Sealed the area around my constructed ducting on the fender mounted additional oil cooler which really helps on the track.  Who's idea was it (Calif senior members of RGRUPPE) to have our annual meeting and track day at Chuckwilla in Palm Springs in May, it's already in the 90's+.

Good point Paul. But lets not look for a problem just throw some cure all 110 octane gas at it and forget about the problem .

The real run-on problem here is between two guys whose screen names end in the letter "al". Which one is gonna blow a gasket first?
Kolsen has lots of information to go by, is not unfamiliar with cars, is happy tinkering, has the time now that he's retired, and can probably afford to blow up his engine (he can sell the Porsche if he doesn't). It is his car. You guys nattering at each other isn't helping.
.
Move on.
.

One extra thought is he's just changed the inlet/exhaust gasket? If it's not sealing properly it may have introduced a small intake leak which would/could lead to a running on condition

I don't need an argument o wise one with your "vast experience" (an explanation would be a better use of your time) and as far as you knowing all these things why is the owner not aware of them ? I only posted what Kolsen stated.
Anyway it needs to be set up correctly and currently according to me cup cake and the owner it is not period.....
A roughly 10.0 to 10.5 to 1 compression ratio should not necessarily need all this stuff.
I hate to beat a dead horse but really thinking i am at this point with you "he did not have this problem all the time before the gasket change".
Why are you so opposed to letting Kolsen "waste his time on timing" setting up his car, its his time his money and Mini.
I don't know Kolsen's mechanical knowledge but he spoke with you and did not cure his problem and now has posted on the board to ask for help.
Anyway you've made your point (however lame it may be) why don't you sit back on your throne and watch us poor mortals all make fools of ourselves then your day will be complete, maybe someone at Mini Mania needs some help.
Like i said he may need premium or clutch action to stop the car or maybe both but why not set it up first ????? Why pay your California $11 a gallon prices if you may not need to. Oh i get it so you can run your engine and not be embarrassed when you switch it off but that embarrassment will be ten times worse when it self destructs due to being incorrectly set up, Todd Dunning's car comes to mind.
Maybe after that episode you and Mini mania can sell him a new engine.
BTW i am discussing Kolsens car with him, you are the one creating argumentative comments so if you don't like what i say or don't believe it is right just click on another thread and ignore me, it should be easy for you, well at least it was when Robster and his four other banned ego's were around here and you were moderating.

Kolsen if you feel the need to take this off line my contact info is in my profile.

You know why the Welsh wear wellington boots - to put the sheeps rear legs in them to stop them from running away

"He is not sure he has a 1380.
His timing is 25 degrees max advance.
His carbs were and still are not adjusted 100%.
We do not know the compression figures.
The above notes are what he has given us and are wrong whichever way you want to look at it.
Why would anyone suffer using a clutch in 1st gear to stop the engine when the engine is unknown and has yet to be set up correctly ?"

Now, now, Mal, I've been trying to gently tell you that I DO know all these things, but you are hell-bent on turning this into an argument!  Isn't there some place you can still go and pay to have an argument?  I need dimitris to put up another of the Monty Python clips!

Look, I really hate to think of you worrying over my "suffering" by having to use my clutch, so here's what I'll do.... If it will make you feel better, I will allow you to start a fund to provide the good race gas to unfortunate owners such as myself and Kolson, who have high performance Minis with compression in the 190-250 PSI range.  Obviously there must be something wrong with our cars, and we don't know why, but the delicious 110 octane gas completely cures it!  You will be helping to ward off the debilitating knee problems caused by all the unnecessary clutch work! This gas is available at auto parts stores around the country, and the cost is right inline with what my Welsh family is used to paying for petrol.... about $11 US per gallon.  Think how you will be helping your fellow Mini owners once again be able to enjoy their cars without the stigma and embarrassment of them sounding like 70s Oldsmobile Cutlass Supremes when we try to shut them off.

You only need the one mark on the harmonic balancer and it needs to be marked at TDC which you have done. Just set it at the figures i gave you and see how it performs from there, my guess is if you are only getting 25 degrees max advance you may have the timing slightly retarded. Remember max advance is more important than idle. If the timing is not retarded then the springs and or weights in the dizzy could be seized or partially seized not allowing the distributor to advance enough, easy fix.
The timing cover marks are from the large one at the top TDC then 5 degree increments towards the grille area.
These cars are simple machines but to get the most out of them everything has to be spot on and when that happens they are a lot more fun.