Got it from Don. It came from a rear engine mounted Landar engine. That's why the "LANDAR" is upside down. Always wanted one because it looks really cool and I love the flip cap. Got lucky I guess. 

Norm: the pin does look like a grenade pin but it is the adjustable locking pin from a Harbor Freight engine stand. It fits snug and just needed a clamp. It came out nice and stock looking. I replaced the pin on my engine stand with a thick screw driver. 

I like the "grenade pin" where you blocked off the heater outlet.

Also, very nice touch with the brass radiator cap keeper chain!

Looks beautiful throughout. Very nicely done.

Norm

Interesting valve cover.  I like it.  What is it?

Wow nice job sir! Very clean and tidy

These are few photos of me painting and soldering wires in my engine bay. It's my first time painting so it's not perfect. The old wire harness had a few worn wires barely hanging to each other and I had to cut them off and soldered new ones. This is a decent fix until I am able to afford a new wire harness. I wish I can weld. I could've fixed those holes I made  but that is how I am. I always seem to break and destroy stuff before learning to fix them.

i decided to go with a color scheme that matches my current paint color. The outside is Ford Red.. It has a slight tint of orange but sporty looking. So I decided to with this shade of lime green. Looks ok i think. In the Philippines we learned how to solder in 6th grade. I remember We made our own transistor radio as one of our final projects. It pays knowing that now.

Well done!  

You can do mine too if you'd like -

Here is what it looks like now.

Thanks!!

Looks great!

You talking about the round thing in front of the gearbox fins? It's a reverse light switch.

Is that an oil temperature sensor added? Would there be room in an automatic to do that?

I hope I did ok on the prep. If it lasts for 6 months then I'd be very happy. If it doesn't then I'll try again. I don't think I'd have enough time to work on my engine bay so I'll just do that after the wedding and MMW. Thank to everyone who gave all the suggestions. 

Try using a DA sander with some fine paper on it just run it at a slow speed.

Dennis,
Congratulations! Hey, sounds crazy, but you can remove the stains on your hands with a fine emery nail file. File the skin smooth, fingers and all. Your hands will be smooth as a babies behind. Just try it.                Mini Estate 

I've done automotive exterior panel paint both spray on and I've even (gasp!) brushed it on. Besides it being runny, it went on no worse nor better than spraying it on. I just didn't have to use a sprayer. Looked fantastic for as long as I had the car.

I've also used brush on rustoleum. Takes longer to dry, but that is now my preferred option.

If I use spray-on spray paint (I don't waste money on specific "engine paint" stuff anymore), I heat the block up with a propane torch to burn off stuff that was missed while cleaning it and to make it "sweat" til dry, then spray on the paint after a second or 10 of cooling. It bakes it on, is my theory. I'll do a second coat at whatever temp if it looks too "dry" after the first coat.

At the end of the day, do what makes you feel good about it. Some of us have lower standards when doing something and some of us have higher standards when doing the same thing.

Some people will always swear they can tell when a car has been worked on using Snap On tools versus one that has been worked on by Craftsman tools. Me? I see a car.

Best thing for rust removal is phosphoric acid, as it leaves a slight anti-rust coating to be painted without more rust forming. Generally sold in auto paint stores.

Best thing for dissolving paint and grease from your hands, nose, or wherever is women's cold cream. Smear it all over, under your nails, etc. rub it in. You can wipe off excess for the moment, but leave it a few hours or overnight and wash in the morning.

I used muriatic acid to remove the surface rust that I couldn't get off. its my first time and Ive no problem repainting it again to get better because I just like working on it. I picked a different shade of green "Citrus green" (GM manufactured color) from this automotive paint store and they prepped the cans for me. They told me I just need the 500 degree for this paint job since I wont be using it for racing. Looks really nice for my taste. Im also working on the engine bay. Got KBS rust seal and big lesson learned.. Shouldve worn gloves. My hands are stained for weeks. Tried everything... lacquer thinner, acetone, etc... Looks like I will be wearing this on my hands for weeks..

Im getting married in 3 weeks and now my fiancée is pissed and wants me to wear gloves on our big day if this stuff doesn't come off lol.

No, you don't need special equipment. I used a $10 sprayer from Harbor freight that I use for the suspension and other things, with a cheap pancake compressor. BUT, as far as paint, many will scrape off or dissolve with the gasoline or oil spills. The PU withstands just about anything.

You don't need anything special to paint an engine.  I used a spray can to do a dusting of etch primer and then a couple of coats of "spraying enamel"...that's what it says on the can.  I used a little re-useable pressure pack (small glass bottle with a replaceable gas container) because the Oz factory used a metallic green paint. 

With "normal" paint I think a brush would be fine because of the rough cast surface wouldn't show brush marks.

Even after 25 years the paint is still pretty much intact..

Cheers, Ian

Sean,
Awesome job on the engine paint! That looks particularly nice. Thanks for sharing!      Mini Estate