I like Alex idea. Now where can i get soft bushings??  The ones made in China were hard.   The problem is , they're all made in mainland china.
But i really like this idea. When you open the hood, the engine is shaking like diesel engines.
To me, if all internal components of the engine were properly aligned, no vibration and noise will occur.

Good idea, thank you Dan, I will carefully check over the bracket.  

You should be OK with those 3.
Check the lower firewall bracket in this photo - it is welded to the firewall cross-member. On my car, it had come loose and been tack-welded on by some previous owner, only to come loose again. With the bottom end of the bolt not supported, the upper end tore via metal fatigue a bigger hole through the upper plate. I discovered this when tracing a body creak in the right foot-well, where the subframe mount was cracking the floor panel.

I've gone the other way with Betty - removed all the extra engine steadies and fitted soft rubber bushes in the dogbone.

With an MPi flexible joint in the exhaust, the engine can move around all it want without causing an exhaust leak, and she's much nicer to drive. Why try and bolt down an engine that wants to rock, when you can let it do its thing ?

Better pic showing where it connects.

I checked the car, and I do have the dog bone type upper stabilizer on the right side of the engine.  So with this single upper, and the two lowers, I guess I am ok??   

Interesting...my 1980 Mini 1000 (with 998cc) also had the lower forward engine steady and the standard upper and lower forward steadies are all I used with the 1380 install on the restore/modify build. The 2 worked just fine.

We had used the two lower rearward steadies on my son's restore/modify build of the 1976 Mini 1000 into which we dropped a new MG Metro 1275 power unit build. The 76 did not have the forward sub frame mounting bracket.

Having built a 1293 for LUCKY the Woody build now underway, I added a lower forward mounting bracket to the earlier front sub frame and will use just the upper rear & lower forward steadies on the install.

I also have the thermostat to pedal box mounting...and it too sits on the shelf.

The Aussie 1098 in the Window Van has two upper engine steadies one by the radiator, one after #4...both have a kink to provide some shock absorption on a head on impact

Oh….well then…that may be a different story

Yes but probably need the one with the breather for that 1330.... lets see if the block is stripped or perhaps the PO just lost it! Also what might be left of the firewall bracket... The photo I saw had no bracket at all over the unused RHD master cylinder holes... the Aussie car was converted to LHD....

Remember….if the block is stripped, this repair can be used to retain the original "dog bone"
//www.minimania.com/part/MSSK002/Engine-Steady-Stabilizer-Bar-Repair-No-Breather

Thanks Jemal, you have been great in helping me understand how I might improve the engine stability on my car.  I absolutely love having this forum as a resource, and also the ability to call MM and get individual real time help with any concerns or issues I have. I'll try to examine the mounting areas for the upper engine stabilizers, and determine exactly how I might add one.   

I spoke with David who just got his Mini and is not familiar with the engine mountings.  Indeed his car seems to be missing the upper dog bone... not something that is workable!  When you understand how much of a beating engine mounts take with a reasonably powerful FRONT wheel drive, you realize that lower mounts alone simply cannot do the job controlling the torque reaction from the power being put to the ground.  You can thank Sir Isaac Newton for that one!

Like jeg I have four steadies holding my 1380 with rod-change, and yes they can and do transmit more noise and vibration as they connect the engine to the subframe. I think they will perform the same function with normal rubber bushings and recommend that route for any extra stabilizers installed. In all cases the standard "dog-bone" should be retained however, and I suspect the previous owner damaged the mounting tabs or stripped the threads in the block and just left it off!

Jeg has a later Mark 4 that has the lower dog bone Rover realized was needed for 1275 engines with the rod-change,  (no solid mount at the shifter like earlier designs). That one goes from the trans case FORWARD to the subframe behind the front bumper.  The "add-on" MSSK and MSSK1 kits provide a bracket to the lower part of the gearbox case on each side.  The struts are then bolted rearward to the subframe "legs" under the toeboard.  If you think of the axle outputs from the diff as the "wrench" that moves the engine in reaction to torque to the ground, you quickly understand how having stabilizer bars above AND below the axles is able to maintain a better grip on that engine!

I only have two engine stabilizer attached, the upper right(near the slave) and there lower front(beside the oil plug) . i didn't know about the one close to the engine breather/ can someone( besides Mr.Haynes) show me as to where the connecting points of the left upper engine stabilizer? thanks.

and oh, i do my own dog bone. , out of solid steel bar and 1inch thick pipe cut crosswise and meticulously measured and welded.

It came with one from the factory, so why not use it?!?

I have 4 on my mini, the stock upper and 3 lower bars, The lower rearward bars are fitted with the harder race-compound polyurethane bushes, the lower forward dogbone and upper are fitted with the slightly softer polyurethane bushes at one end and harder bushes on the other end.  There's a bit of additional noise and vibration transmitted to the shell, but my front subframe is fitted with some solid mounts (aluminum tower mounts, front teardrops and am using the standard toeboard mounts), so it really doesn't matter.  (My rear subby has poly bushes fitted in the trunions also.)  I maintain a 'garage inventory' of both types of stabilizer bar bushes, a minimum 3 sets each at all times, and replace the bushes every 3 or 4 years or so.

 I've also got the one (well 2, actually, one for large-bore and one for small-bore) that fits on the thermostat housing studs, but I never bothered to install it.  Too much hassle associated with this one, so they're sitting in a box o'stuff to be given to some club member someday.

Sorry, haven't any pictures that show the upper stabilizer other than the usual ones found in the Haynes, workshop manual or the AKM2.

I have both the lower engine stabilizer bars installed on my Mini, but I understand it is important to also (?) install the upper stabilizer bar.  Do others have all three, just two, one, none?  Any preference to which type of upper bar (left side or right side of engine)?  I have a modified 1330.  Feel free to post pics of your upper.