I would advise not going with something higher than a 20 PSI switch.  It is not uncommon for our high-mileage cars to have 20 to 30 PSI at hot idle.  If you start seeing the warning light on at idle you'll get in the habit of ignoring it.  Then when you have a real problem... you'll ignore it again.

David23 I know your confusion...

Slightly off topic but similar scenario.

We were on the last leg of a transcontinental trip in the Aussie Mini Window Van...barely 30 miles from home when on leaving the Freeway, no signal lights...and, as it turned out, NO brake lights.  Blown fuse.  Replaced fuse...that lasted until we went around another corner.

There is an oil pressure warning light switch on the front of the OZ tranny case...the lead was swinging in the breeze...swing SHORT blown fuse.

Crimped the female connector end of problem.  However, replacing the standard switch with an adjustable switch is a better idea.  The standard switch is activated at 7 psi...whoa, way to low when flying down the freeway.  So switches that can be adjusted to 25 or 30 or 40 or even 60 psi are available for little more.

Take the two leads off the brake light switch and touch them together. If the brake lights come on  is a bad brake light switch.

Ian, your  ignition cable should be on the hot side of the fuse. Should not fail to proceed if the fuse blows.Check your diagram. Unless old Pommy Minis are wired differently to our  Oz ones....!

Yes, this is a very interesting effect.  On my car, the ignition shares the same fuse you found.  I couldn't work out why the fuse sometimes blew (and thereby causing an immediate failure to proceed.  But it only seemed to happen on the forestry stage I call a driveway...

Eventually I found the power line to the brake switch swinging in the breeze.  It would appear that, if I touched the brakes at the same time the swinging lead touched something, ZAP, cessation of progress until a new fuse was fitted..

Cheers, Ian

Did a check over on a S sedan that's going to MiniMeetEast.
No brake lights.
Had a new switch, swapped out and had good brakes and brake lights in about 15 minutes.
I was able to gravity bleed them.
Did hit the other bleeders as a precaution.

Yep, found it right where you said.  Replaced the fuse and at least I now have the indicators back!  Thanks. 

Yes it's fused as it's an Oz car I'm not sure where the fuse box is located but try looking on the right side inner wing up in the rear corner (This would be the left side as your looking under the hood. (Left right is always given as sitting in the drivers seat)

Well, I accidentally got a spark when I was testing the hot lead into the brake light switch… yeah I know…  
Now, no current coming into the switch and no turn signal indicators.  Is there a fusebox somewhere I can't seem to locate or did I fry stuff?  

Sorry for all the newbie questions, I've just had the car a very few days, and am learning from scratch.  Need to get a Haynes Manual. 

Replacement switches (are not Lockheed anymore) recently are rubbish. I got 3 weeks out of one, then 3 months out of another. Then I fitted the later mechanical switch to the pedal box by bolting a bracket on.

I have heard that a Harley hydraulic brake switch fits, no idea if better than Mini one, it could hardly be worse!

I did see current going into the switch, but I don't have anyone around to push the brake pedal  I'll try to put something against it to depress the pedal and check the switch function.  Makes sense to be sure before just replacing parts.  Thanks.

Did you make sure you were getting current to one side of the switch? Easy test light diagnosis, make sure you have voltage on one side then apply test light to the other side of the switch and bush brake pedal..........................

Ah, bleeding the brakes...

I've been using one of these for years to bleed brake and clutch lines:  EEZE-BLEED 

Simple and effective.

Ahhh…Thank you jeg,  I never noticed the drop down menu to switch the search to Forum.  I kept getting parts searches.  Thanks.  DUH!

I found the hydraulic switch, up in the front right, down low in the engine bay. I traced the brake lines and it was easily spotted. I'm assuming this is my problem for no brake lights. Bulbs are good, and I don't seem to get current to the sockets.  I'll have to wait until I can get the replacement part and a helper to (I assume) bleed the brakes after.  Someone please correct me if I"m off in the wrong direction.

Yes, there is a search function, upper right-hand corner, green box that says 'search'.  There's a drop-menu to the left of the text box for you to select categories such as forum topics, articles, parts, etc..


Re. the hydraulic switch - Link:  7H7995 / C16062A - you'll see a parts diagram to the right of the product description which could help find the item as it sits on the car.

Link to pedal-mounted switch:  13H3735 - uses locknut BMK1903A which our host doesn't seem to have.  

All of the above parts are available from MSC...  (BMK1903A , 13H3735 , C16062A )

I can't seem to locate the brake light switch on my Australian 1971 Morris Cooper.  At some point it was converted from RHD to LHD.  I have goggled images, but I don't see the switch on the back of the brake pedal arm as most image searches show. I heard something about a switch in the brake line that operates off of hydraulic pressure?  Could mine have that?  

Also, is there a search function for this forum? I must be dim as I haven't figured out how to do that.