Did the hub bearings last week .Brake parts and new pedal pads should be here tomorrow it says.Just got done ordering all new ball joints and the new zirk fittings from our great host mini mania lol.Hopefully this tightens up the front some more,kindve looking forward to learning how to do the ball joints and ive never rebuilt calipers so its new to me!

Took the caliper off...

The metal outer thing ring was gone on the one side...just some rust where it was.Rubber seals were dried out and cracked on the inner piston side.Outter piston was hard to get out but i used pliars and grabbed it and used a flathead to pry between the pliars and caliper and worked my way around for a while and it came off.Pistons looked to be stainless by coloration i thought but were in fact plated and flaking on that side and slightly pitted

I ordered 4 new stainless pistons ,and 2 seal kits from our host with the columbus day emailed promo code.Going to thoroughly clean and rebuild both sides for peice of mind.Deffinately dont want to be cheap about brakes.I still want nice aluminum 4 pot brakes but im curious how the brakes will work when they are correct.My brake fluid went low once over time and i couldnt see a leak anywhere ...this time it let lose and the leak made an appearance.My brake pedal always felt weird to me and im guessing this is why,i just never felt another mini to compare.

I rebuild a lot of calipers, I'd suggest a 88 would have drums or 8.4 from factory. The 7.5 s were most likely a upgrade for drums or change to allow 10s instead of 12s. I always replace the caliper pistons with stainless steel. Std pistons are chrome plated and it can and does peel. Most if not all manuals tell you not to split the caliper halves. There is a small seal between the two halves it can be replaced or reused if careful. I have machined up some tools for doing calipers and keep SS pistons and seal kits. Contact info in my profile. Mail me the one you have issues with will rebuild and return if you like. We can work out details via email. 

If you want to do it yourself be careful to remove all rust and old seal material from the grooves. They actually shape the seals. Steve (CTR)

PS check the bleed screw I open them with a socket on an extension to avoid side loading the bleed screw. The calipers are prone to cracking around bleed screw.

Maybe you've recently changed pads???  As the pads wear the pistons stick out further.  The sticky out bit of the piston can then get dirty/corroded.  When you install new pads this section is pushed back past the seals and can damage them.

Unlike drums the seal surface is on the piston (not the bore).  Seals are easilly installed ..as are new pistons...

Cheers, Ian

Left front caliper seems to be leaking some fluid .Pulled up to a car meet tonight and noticed there was something slightly wet on the outside of the minilites .Runs between the spokes accross the tire parallel with the spokes.I took a peek inside and behind the disk it was a little wet and on the inside of the wheel.Not coming from the brake line where it meets the caliper.

All stock 7.5 brakes.Car is an 88 and only has braided hoses otherwise stock brakes.I noticed the pedal recently felt a little different but didnt seem to notice anything when i did the hub bearings.On the ride home i jammed the brakes pretty hard and let go of the wheel and it would pull to the right hard.Im guessing thats because the LH pads arent locking due to the fluid leak.

Can i rebuild the caliper? Pointers? What kit would i need ? Im not good with the years and which parts etc and i like checking before i buy it so the car isnt apart long waiting for stuff.I have been debating on fancy alluminum 4 pot calipers and pads etc but havent quite decided which set up i want to do so id like to fix this for now.