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 Posted: Nov 15, 2016 06:04PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DRMINI
Not sure about MED flywheels, but 2 light race Minispares ones I saw here recently both needed balancing. They were a fair bit off. Maybe due to the ring gear being welded on.
I would check balance before fitting unless it has obvious balance spots drilled. Ditto the backplate.
Well I have always gotten a top quality product from them. They ensure me it was balanced so I trust them. 

 Posted: Nov 15, 2016 02:13PM
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Not sure about MED flywheels, but 2 light race Minispares ones I saw here recently both needed balancing. They were a fair bit off. Maybe due to the ring gear being welded on.
I would check balance before fitting unless it has obvious balance spots drilled. Ditto the backplate.

Kevin G

1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.

 Posted: Nov 15, 2016 01:42PM
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Though I usually just pull the lump to access everything at once, I leave the back wok bolts out so an in situ clutch access can be accomplished. As far as the flywheel removal goes, I use a very large heavy rod of metal aimed at the back of the flywheel through the starter hole. A drive shaft works well. One serious THUD with a hammer on the rod and my flywheel comes off every time.

Mark Looman, Ada Michigan 1967 Austin Cooper S
 Posted: Nov 14, 2016 09:16AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spitz
Did the new one come assembled with straps in place?
Yes. All assembled and balanced.

 Posted: Nov 14, 2016 08:42AM
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CA
Did the new one come assembled with straps in place?

 

"Everybody should own a MINI at some point, or you are incomplete as a human being" - James May

"WET COOPER", Partsguy1 (Terry Snell of Penticton BC ) - Could you send the money for the unpaid parts and court fees.
Ordered so by a Judge

 

 

 

 Posted: Nov 14, 2016 07:34AM
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Got my new MED lightened flywheel in over the weekend. It made my 1380 come alive....love it!

 Posted: Nov 3, 2016 07:00AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jedduh01
Be sure you have a proper Flywheel puller special tool on hand. or it will be a bugger to get the flywheel off without that. They are usually well stuck on the crank

After the flywheel is off and free= be careful around the primary gear on the crank. It has really soft bronze bushings  too much prying  will break the edges. Been there done that. 
Care to post an example of the "proper" flywheel puller? 

 Posted: Nov 3, 2016 05:07AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mur
Drive a car with a light flywheel first before you buy one. Rotating mass, while not wanted in a race car, certainly can be missed in regular every day driving.
I talked to my engine builder (MED) and he all mentioned that.  I went with a middle of the road lightened flywheel that will give me the performance I'm after and also driveability around town.

Thanks for the suggestion/help.  

 Posted: Nov 2, 2016 05:16PM
mur
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Drive a car with a light flywheel first before you buy one. Rotating mass, while not wanted in a race car, certainly can be missed in regular every day driving.

 Posted: Nov 2, 2016 04:18AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by QuickSilver
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peppieandmister
Thanks for all the tips!!
Not necessarily a hard job.

Recommend upgrading to a lightened flywheel if budget and driving style allows.

Good luck.
That was my plan. I have been looking at MED since that is where the engine came from.   

You said driving style??  I want something I can run on the highway with but also be able to roump on it. 

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 06:40PM
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CA
After you get the flywheel off, remove the horse shoe washer and backing ring, run a file around the groove in the crank to remove any burrs. If not , you may have trouble sliding the primary gear off the crank as these burrs will gouge up the inside bushing on the primary gear.

Mousy

 
 
 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 06:33PM
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NG
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peppieandmister
Thanks for all the tips!!
Not necessarily a hard job.

Recommend upgrading to a lightened flywheel if budget and driving style allows.

Good luck.

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 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 05:11PM
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Thanks for all the tips!!

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 05:03PM
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Be sure you have a proper Flywheel puller special tool on hand. or it will be a bugger to get the flywheel off without that. They are usually well stuck on the crank

After the flywheel is off and free= be careful around the primary gear on the crank. It has really soft bronze bushings  too much prying  will break the edges. Been there done that. 

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 10:27AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Alex
Get a sacrificial spanner and bend it into a shape that will allow access to the lower back bolt of the clutch cover - it is an utter sod to get to, and I leave it out on reassembly.
Exactly what I do, also the one at the rear right next to the subframe is difficult at times. The very lowest one is not to bad if you undo the engine mount and jack up the engine (watch the fan/radiator!) you can get a 1/4 drive swivel socket on it.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 08:11AM
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GB
Get a sacrificial spanner and bend it into a shape that will allow access to the lower back bolt of the clutch cover - it is an utter sod to get to, and I leave it out on reassembly.

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 07:56AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by minimans
Do it all the time, It's not that hard just fiddly getting the wock bolts out.
Any tricks or gotcha's you can pass along?  It seems a pretty straight forward process.

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 07:51AM
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Do it all the time, It's not that hard just fiddly getting the wock bolts out.

Mini's are like buses they come along in a bunch

 Posted: Nov 1, 2016 07:47AM
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All,

Seems that my oil seal is leaking at the clutch.  Is it possible to remove the flywheel while the engine is in the car?  Of course it would be much easier out.  Just wanting to see if someone has done it before.

Thanks!