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Part No: 21A1091
When you change the length of the lower control arm to attain the desired degree of camber, the caster also changes. To reset it you must be able to change the length of the tie-rods. Our special adjustable tie rods are almost twice the diameter of the stock version and are far less likely to bend. Remember, in addition to controlling caster, these tie-rods also control stability under braking!
Busings not included. See 31G1155 for standard rubber. WB3, C-STR628, -629, -and 631 for harder options.
Use GFK3224 for the lock nut.
Stock rod diameter is .5", these adjustable heavy duty rods are .630" diameter.
Suspension - Heavy Duty adjustable tie rods 21A1091
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These rods have been produced to improve car stability when cornering and braking and to facilitate easy adjustment of caster angle. Manufactured from a high-grade material in a much larger diameter than the standard items they are far less susceptible to bending - both in use and where poor workshop practice is observed. The most common fault here is jacking the car up with a trolley jack sitting the cup up against the forward tie-rod mounting bracket on the front subframe. As the wheel droops, the tie-rod becomes bound hard up against the jack cup, the sheer force of the un-loading rubber spring causing the insubstantial standard tie-rod to bend. This effectively shortens the tie-rod, therefore increasing caster angle.
The standard caster angle quoted by the workshop manual is 3 degrees +0/-2, so could be anything from 1 to 3 degrees and not necessarily equal on each side. Caster angle will change when raising or lowering the car and where adjustable or fixed negative camber bottom arms are used (increasing camber tends to also increase caster angle). The adjustability of these tie rods allows accurate and equal setting of the caster angle on both sides of the car. This is imperative for straight line stability and minimalising wander/weaving over broken road surfaces - particularly where 13" wheels and limited slip differentials are used. The greater the caster angle, the more self-centering action will be when accelerating. Increased caster also improves cornering grip.
Adjustment is achieved by screwing the tie rod in or out of the threaded block that bolts to the bottom arm. This can be done without removing the tie rod from it's installed position by slackening the 11/16"AF nut on the front end of the tie rod, undoing the lock nut that tightens up against the adjuster block then turning the toe rod with a spanner on the hexagonal shape cut into the tie rod shaft's centre. Shortening the rod by screwing it into the adjuster block increases caster, lengthening it by un-screwing it out of the adjuster block decreases caster.
The standard tie rod length is 14.25" measured from the inner edge of the bottom arm retaining bolt hole to the outer face of the welded-on washer. One full rotation of the rod adjusts the length by 1/16", which equates to a little over 1/2 degree. However, the shorter the tie rod is made, the less amount of alteration is achieved. It is not recommended to use more than 5.5 degrees of caster, less than 2 degrees will greatly reduce the steering's self-centering action. Altering caster angle also alters camber angle - increasing caster angle reduces camber and vice versa. Always start with the tie rod set at the standard length. Starting with the rod longer can cause a misleading phenomena known as the 'tea trolley' effect, where the bottom ball joint (swivel pin) is behind the top one viewed in side elevation.
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Tough, straight, heavy
I have these with the C-AJJ3360 On Car Adjustable Front Lower Arms and it is a rock-solid setup, very hard daily driving. I did however read a post where some guy had the retaining nut on the bushing get loose and it put him into the center divider on the freeway. However, it could be any tie-rod; not these. Here they say to use a GFK3224 locknut, but I am going to use my existing castle nuts, drill the tie rod shaft and cotter pin it.