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Flywheel Steel Street 10.5 Lb Non Verto Mini & Cooper

Flywheel Steel Street 10.5 Lb Non Verto Mini & Cooper

Flywheel Steel Street 10.5 Lb Non Verto Mini & Cooper
Light Weight STEEL flywheel! For non-Verto clutch and non-pre-engaged starter.

"1lb off the flywheel is like taking 100 lbs off the car!" Not quite rational but close. This rule of thumb indicates the importance of flywheel performance. The stock cast iron 1275 flywheel is almost 22 lbs. Even the "S flywheel weighs almost 17lbs. The stock flywheel is "cast" iron and thus not very safe to lighten!

This new "Street" Steel one piece flywheel is 11 lbs. and provides tremendous improvement in acceleration! (The full race version C-AEG619 is 8lbs.)

Effects of lightening rotating engine components:

(0.5 x n2 x r2 + R2) / R2

n = total gear ratio (gear ratio x diff ratio)

r = radius of gyration

R = Radius of wheel/tyre

This formula gives what accelerative weight the engine sees of the car per lb. Radius of gyration of a transverse engine's flywheel is approx. 3.75". So to determine "weight loss" for a flywheel weight of say 18 lb to 10 lb, the engine would see an overall weight loss of the car to accelerate in first gear of:

3.33 = 1st gear of 4 synchro 'S' box 3.44 = diff ratio (0.5 x (3.33 x 3.34)2 x 3.752 + 9.52) / 9.52 = (0.5 x 131.2 x 14.06 + 90.25) / 90.25 = 1012.59 / 90.25 = 11.22 lbs

So for every 1 lb removed from the flywheel, the engine sees 11.22 lbs less to accelerate off of the total car. Therefore by lightening the flywheel by 8 lb, the engine sees a total reduction of the cars accelerative weight of 89.68 lb.

USE C-GEU9405 STARTER WITH THIS FLYWHEEL!
Technical Information:
Flywheel Problems
Additional Related Articles:

When installing a flywheel onto a engine/crankshaft I strongly recommend that you "lap the interface surface" between the flywheel and crank. The objective of this process is to insure an absolute perfect fit on the tapper.  If for any reason this is not the case you will probably NOT be able to remove the flywheel at some future date as it will be sure to friction weld the flywheel to the crank.

The process is simple enought, very similar to lapping valves into a cylinder head.  I suggest you use the fine lapping paste and not the coarse versionit is then critical that both surfaces be completely cleaned.  I personally use a spray can of brake clean and a clean rag. The final assembly tolls in addition to the obvious troque wrench to be able to reach the required 150 foot pounds of torque should also be a rather large hammer.  After first achieving the 150 ft.pds. take the large hammer and rap the flywheel bolt a number of time to insure it is tottaly seated on the cranshaft and then torque it again.

Now after doing everything right, it is still possible to have a problem.  The results can be pretty discouraging.  When all else fails a cut-off wheel and press are the only answer.


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