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 Posted: Jun 14, 2013 11:26AM
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Try Wood & Picket in the UK i heard they work on them. The Jap spec cars do not have the immobilizer but i don't think it is an easy peasy swap out unless they use the same ecu but that may be doubful maybe worth a try though.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Jun 14, 2013 10:54AM
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Whew! 5 bills and they won't even remove the immobilizer.

 Posted: Jun 14, 2013 10:39AM
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Thanks. I've emailed them. I'm hopeful that I can just obtain an mpi unit and have it sync'd to existing components. Waiting to her about price and turn around if I go that route.

 Posted: Jun 14, 2013 10:30AM
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US

Great to hear -   after soo many checks and it leads back to 1 place- thats gotta be it.


 I think i mentioned earlier - my neighbors car has a Reman'ed ecu in it - Sticker from BBA Reman.  Im sure they  can do a repair / swap for you as needed.

 

//www.bba-reman.com/us/

 

Goodluck!

 Posted: Jun 13, 2013 07:03AM
 Edited:  Jun 13, 2013 09:30AM
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After many months and failures we have finally concluded the it WAS the ECU. There were many wiring problems that were fixed, but each fix never changed the outcome of how many cylinders fired. Many said for sure it was the ECU and many said the ECU is rarely, if ever, the culprit of such a problem, but it my case it was. There could have been a bad wire to the unit that caused a short...

 

The tach was an independent problem (wire again). Now I have all gauges working and 4 cylinders. I'm limping on a borrowed ECU/5as/fob at the moment.

 

Trying to decide now if I should just

 

1) buy a used ECU and use the ACR4 module to sync it with the alarm unit

-or-

2) try and find a used ecu, fob, 5as

-or-

3) send mine off and have it repaired and have the alarm/immobilizer removed

 

Does anyone have any experience with any of these options ESPECIALLY using the new scanner to sync a "strange" ECU to the alarm?

 

Suggestions?

 

Thanks again to all who helped me through this process. We have to add a stabilizer because of a broken bolt and once that's done I can finally hit the road on all 4 cylinders! It's currently in post from England!

 Posted: Mar 31, 2013 02:14PM
 Edited:  Mar 31, 2013 02:15PM
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Just watching this conversation and am always curious what the outcome will be. Idea... What if you guys in two different loactions did more ohm checks on componets to check for likenesses.. If SPI and MPI's are similiar as I have read in these posts, you should be able to get similiar results and compare notes. I wish you two the best of luck. Keep us all up to date...

 Jason

 Posted: Mar 26, 2013 06:48PM
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you've got mail.

 

Thanks!

 

Wish I could make the Mitty this year :-(

 Posted: Mar 26, 2013 06:19PM
 Edited:  Mar 26, 2013 06:21PM
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US
My Email is in my profile if you want to swap some ideas. What if were close and my friend with his MPI can also offer some parts for fitting x swapping.... Ive been following your posts on TMF Too. and you've followed His - Ojames

Cam sensor is integral with the timing of the spark fire. If you can / have access to one to swap out to test. why not rule it out. too= put your part in a working car and see if it still works- if possible.

Along with- the relay box - Sits on top of the booster pedal Box - Swap it to rule it out too.

Spi / MPI are interchangeable.

Have you tested the actual plug to the coil -- thre are 3 terminals - Possibly 4.. 1 isnt used. 1 is ground the other two are spark for 1 bank- and spark for the other bank. Are you getting any voltage out of both sides? of the signal wire to the coil. Its becomming a need to trace back problem.

If anything - Tow it to Atlanta to "The Mitty" and a bunch of mini heads can get their hands on it!!!

 Posted: Mar 26, 2013 04:23PM
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Thanks. We have exchanged the Crank sensor with a known working one. Could the Cam sensor cause the same problems?

 Posted: Mar 25, 2013 06:00PM
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US
Just worked on a friends MPI with NO spark... He also replaced coil to no avail.

We swapped crank sensors out with a known working one out of a driving car.

Ohms on the two terminals out of the plug.

Good sensor = 1.3332 Bad Sensor = 0

Test it to be sure. but if you have spark on 1 coil side- and not the other would point back to the ECU not telling that Bank to fire. Sadly thought ECU's again

BBA Reman Looks to offer the right service for ECU Rework along with immobilizer pairing / removal.

 Posted: Mar 25, 2013 03:09PM
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Spent quite some time troubleshooting yesterday with a very valuable local resource and forum member. Grateful for his time.

Completed a compression check (normal as expected) and rotated the coil leads around as the mechanic had done previously with no change in the lack of spark or distribution pattern. (No matter which order the leads were attached, 2 and 3 did not get any spark.)

The plugs all looked good but there were several areas of wiring that were taped and appeared somewhat sketchy. I'm wondering if it is a grounding issue? Connections to the ECU were all good.

Things discovered missing or bad:
Bolt to the dog bone to stabilize the engine = gone
Some wiring loose from the thermostat that may make the fan not work as it should
Various other taped areas as mentioned above

But no obvious reason for no spark on 2 and 3

Is expected that even if the leads are reversed that the same middle leads would not produce spark???

Summary:
Compression OK
Leads OK
Plugs OK
Crank Sensor OK
Coil pack - replaced and presumed OK
Scanner revealed Cam and Crank sensor fault in the past - cleared and never returned
Scanner revealed temperature sensor high

Would love feedback. Thanks again to all.

 Posted: Mar 20, 2013 01:15PM
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Thanks. Rob did great work for us.

 Posted: Mar 18, 2013 05:58PM
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US
 Posted: Mar 15, 2013 07:20AM
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Oop's missed that Terry.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 15, 2013 06:57AM
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US

Malcolm:

The crank sensor was swapped out with no change in behavior.

For others:

The MEMS 2J ECU has a learning mode  and stores information. This information is non-volatile and stays in the system until cleared by a scan tool which has also been done.

Once the stored codes have been retrieved and cleared then new instances of codes can be evaluated.

Terry

 Posted: Mar 15, 2013 06:33AM
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Before i would dig into the ecu i would replace the crank sensor. I have worked on a few of these spi's and mpi's for people and never had to replace an ecu usually sensors and or vacuum lines and with your tach related problem i would try the crank sensor.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Mar 15, 2013 05:26AM
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I'd still like to see some compression check numbers

 Posted: Mar 15, 2013 12:42AM
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The two error codes seemed to be voltage related...so, it's quite possible that they were simply induced during troubleshooting of his problem from before he had the scanner...
Quote:
Originally Posted by N. J.
 
With no MPI experience, I know that I'm treading on really thin ice here, but it occurs to my linear thought process that intermittent or random faults that:

1) Aren't resolved by replacing the indicated faulty item, or

2) Clear and don't return

...re-read and think on those for a second...

could well point to an ailing ECU.

 

 Posted: Mar 14, 2013 08:23PM
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That's what I was using.

 Posted: Mar 14, 2013 07:57PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by N. J.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ran


Do the component readings mean anything to anyone?

With no MPI experience, I know that I'm treading on really thin ice here, but it occurs to my linear thought process that intermittent or random faults that:

1) Aren't resolved by replacing the indicated faulty item, or

2) Clear and don't return

...re-read and think on those for a second...

could well point to an ailing ECU.

My good fortune has been that on my cars with ecu's, when they "get a bone in their throat", removing all power for 24 hours (the equivalent of a 'cold boot') has allowed them to reset. The odd code has disappeared, and after the obligatory re-learning period, the engine returned to normal.

I wish you all the best in your quest. You're to be congratulated for your grit to date.

Not sure on the MPI but the SPI codes will not clear usually without the Sykes P scanner.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

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