A couple of questions, what is the height of the deck? Also what height is the hitch and when loaded and attached to tow vehicle will it be level? Steve (CTR)

Josh,

What size rims are you using?  It's all coming together nicely.  I would have thought you would have utilized a drop axel to keep the trailer as low as possible.  With a straight axel the ramps are going to have to be fairly long so the Mini doesn't drag when loading/unloading.

Yes, those small tires are really moving.  Went through that same scenario in the '70's with snowmobile trailers.  A must have on the hubs are bearing buddies to keep the wheels bearings constantly greased or they go away quickly.  Decided to get rid of that style of trailer build flat bed general purpose trailers with 14" or 15" rims.  Full decks so the trailer can be used multi-purpose and not just runners for vehicles.  Dropped axles to keep the trailer height as low as possible.  And yes, the fenders do get in the way sometimes. 

Scargo-

With those 8 inch tires, would they not be turning real high at speed ?

But still a nice job-

 

BIG AL

Scargo, Kudo's to john. That is a slick trailer. I wish I knew how to weld aluminum. I would have definitely tried that. As for mine. Lets hope both are true. Im stronger and it is lighter than I thought! oh and 301 posts WOOHOO haha .

ok....  Some progress.

Picture one. leaf spring fitting.

Pic 2-4. Trianulating from hitch.

Pic 5: Pads for axel welded. *they came loose= faster turn around on the axle i ordered monday picked up tuesday.

And the rest are various angles of axle mounted

Final picture is right side up, and I dont think we are near 500LBS yet because i flipped it myself. That or I am much stronger than i thought!!

No thats not bad. Send it my way. I will just prime for now. Then paint whenever i can. That would be great thanks.

I won't be back into my shop till the 29th, so hope that isn't too long.

94Touring I would be happy to accept the paint. Send whatever you want PM me. Use [email protected] though. the other is old. I still want to paint it white. I planned on painting this week, as the axel is mounted now and the surface of expanded steel will go on tomorrow. I can wait if you want to send it. I just have to finish by monday next week so i can move the mini. let me know, and thanks!

My powder coater and I have come up with a system for sub frames we like. He dips them in his paint stripped tank. Then runs them though the oven to run oil out of the seams. Next they are blasted then dipped in another solvent followed by a zink rich primer and two coats of black flipping between coats. Yeah, it costs a little more but gives good results. Steve (CTR)

If powder coat weighs more than regular paint, it can't be much. Especially considering powder coat goes on bare metal and done, opposed to primer, base, clear. Either way, no significant weight gain. Unless you're doing rattle can the cost of painting it could add up for the little bit you need. I might suggest you do acrylic enamal. Much cheaper, single stage, and better than rattle can. Still need primer, but you can buy descent stuff in rattle can at a real paint shop that won't break the bank. Unless you already have activators for 2 stage paint and clear coat sitting around its worth considering going the AE route. I'd even donate white if you're still planning on that color. Have PPG omni with reducer and hardener for the glossy effect if you want it.

"I am not a fan of Por 15 that crap is a bitch to get off" Exactly why you WOULD use it on a trailer in the first place Steve it sticks like $hit to a shovel and seals whatever it is applied to unlike regular paint or some powder coating i have seen. Yes it is an undercoat and can be painted over or left as applied if you want to.

I have a good relationship with my local powder coater. If you could get your tool shed to his shop he could coat it. They do complete stock car frames with cage and interior sheet metal.

I'm not a fan of POR 15 that crap is a bitch to get off. I was told by a body and paint guy it's not a finish coat but a undercoat to be painted over. I don't know, I have been coating my trailer with Rustolium black with a brush every few years. All the material but axle and one cross member are galvanized. Steve (CTR)

Roger that!

 

...keep it simple, cost effective and weight friendly untill I know the final weight, then we add 52 pieces of flare!

Josh,  Ok there "Office Space".  Although very nice to utilize, powder coating would likely double the cost of building the trailer. 

If not a fan of powdercoat what about Por 15 that stuff is chip resistant and a lot more durable than paint but the downside is i have never seen it in any color except black.

For some reason i was under the impression powder coat added more weight. But thinking about it probably not. Its not like paint is the lightest thing out there either. I know it isnt cheap though. Im a learn how / DIY kind of guy so unless I buy the set up, or someone has one ! i dont think i will be going that route. Good suggestion though.

As for lights I am set. I will have two yellow markers front corners, to red rear corners, and two stop turn brake rear.

I do appreciated all the suggestions, keep them coming. It can be a great reference for others in the future. But just know that even though robotic ramps that put them self away and a air ride suspension would be awesome! Im going to keep it simple, cost effective and weight friendly untill I know the final weight, then we add 52 pieces of flare!

Cheers

Josh

Al, I guess it depends on the design of the trailer. I can move the car a couple of feet fore and aft which allows me to adjust tongue weigth. Like I mentioned earlier proper toe and camber has much to do with the way one handles. We always tow the race cars backwards and keep up with traffic. Empty or loaded unless you looked you would never know it was behind you. I'll try and get Zip some pictures to post. Steve (CTR)

GaryE-

Funny coincidence-I stood on my bathroom scales this AM and l was 235 (LOL)

Steve- Never liked loading a mini backward on any single trailer, creates too much "snake effect" = white knuckles-

BIG AL

That was more of a rhetorical question about the expanded steel.

Calncy/SMoke on the board built trailers for a living, and has great simple trailer design.  He was going to do a run of ten for members of the board a few years ago and could not get enough interest, but I think he built at least one for someone.

The trailer we had when I was a kid was actually amazingly robust.  There were two runners with the edges formed over into a square, making the part where the wheels went akin to a flat piece with a C channel on either side.  This simple ladder had diagonals between, an A frame tongue, and a solid axle.  If I bothered to hunt it down it would likely still be useable today, and with a torflex axle would be less annoying empty.  It was light.

Does powder coating add much weight?  A quick search on the google showed Mitsubishi fanboys arguing over how much weight it would add to their 18" wheels.  As I add to my fleet, the new trailers will be powder coated.

This is a good resource on lighting:

//www.tc.gc.ca/eng/roadsafety/tp-tp13136-trailer_e-414.htm

I'm glad you got the brakes.  Once you dial in your brake control you will likely have an ah-ha moment where you realize how nice it is when everything works in concert.  Since State, Provincial and federal bodies are trying to rationalize differing regulations, it is best to aim for a finished product that will work anywhere you might go, so you don't end up with a trailer that falls short in some jurisdiction.