So I ran into this situation yesterday. I have #1 cylinder at TDC and my timing marks line up at zero. I purchased a AUU1536, I believe this is the same as a 65DM4? When installed with the Vac advance at 12 o'clock and the ignition module at 3 o'clock, my rotor points to 7 o'clock position (when it should point to 2 o'clock position). If I am correct, I could put all the leads on starting from this point for cylinder firing 1-3-4-2 and be fine. Or I could remove the distributor drive and rotate 180 degrees? Or I could remove the drive dogs on the end of the new distributor and turn 180 degrees? Thoughts, confirmations?

I think the issue comes about because as Kevin mentioned... when doing the dot-to-dot timing chain installation we want to think that we are dealing with #1 at TDC and that is not the case.  Finish your dot-to-dot installation, then move on to the distributor installation as a separate task.   But yes... the crank will need one full turn after cam timing is set.

With the cam timing set, turn the engine over until piston #1 is at/near TDC and its rocker arms are loose.  If you install the dizzy drive gear at that time (adjusting the rotation until the slot looks oriented as shown in the manuals) your distributor should line up properly.

thanks Ian that was very informative! there's something else i forgot to mention..

I used a timing strobe for diagnosis to check all the plug wires for signal.  No1 and 4 plugs were flashing Ok. No2 and no3 at first didnt flash at all. I checked their connections again and they started flashing a bit but sporadically. I turned the dizzy clockwise to give some advance and i noticed that after the 20 degrees tooth mark on the timing cover No2 and No3 would start flashing Ok. But again even at this situation, when i took off the leads from no2 or 3 it wouldnt drop revs or respond..

At this point i tried to set a working ignition point at 1500rpm with 15degrees. But no matter what i did the engine would only work beyond the 20degrees mark.. Whenever i tried to set it lower than that, i would start rattling and coming to a stall.

"...and ONLY THEN install the dizzy drive.  Correct?.."

IMHO, its more productive to think "why?" rather than "how?"  One leads to the other and its easier to remeber a logical sequence than random discrete steps........

The location of the dizzie drive doesn't matter.  The location of the rotor arm once the dizzie is installed is what's important - if only for neatness sake (and making sure the vac advance doesn't foul something else).

The following procedure will ensure it all lines up.

1. Set engine at TDC for No 1 on firing stroke (ie both valves closed - rockers loose).

2. Take dizzie in hand in correct orientation (ie vac can pointing where you want it)

3. Rotate rotor to point at 1 to 2 o’clock (ish)

4.  Note orientation of drive lugs at bottom end of dizzie.  THIS is where you want the corresponding slot in the dizzie drive to be.  Remember that the slot is offset so you need the slot pointing in the correct (chosen) direction AND with the offset to match the dizzie lugs.

5. Screw special tool 45*&^ ( a 7/16^th bolt 4 or 5 inches long (fine thread - I think) into dizzie drive (hand tight only).

6. Insert drive into hole in block – remember the drive will rotate as it engages the drive gears on the cam so you need to choose the starting orientation that will allow it to end up in the required orientation when the gears are fully engaged.  This bit is pretty much trial and error so, if the end result is not correct, remove and repeat until it is (I THINK it rotates around 90 deg during insertion).

7.  CAREFULLY remove installation tool (which is why you don't tighten the bolt into the drive - just make sure lots of threads are engaged...).

8. Install dizzie (you’ll probably need to wiggle the rotor arm to allow the drive dogs to engage to allow the dizzie to slot fully home.

If the rotor arm is not pointing where you want it then you may have to re-run Step 6.

9. You can now rotate the dizzie slightly so that the points are just opening (make sure you’re turning it in the correct direction when setting to points opening (BTDT :(

The dizzie is now (roughly) in the operating position. If the vac unit is fouling something you may need to go back to Step 6 to readjust…

Good luck, Ian

Thanks for this one - I've also been having trouble with this.  If I've got TDC correct - rockers on #4 cylinder loose and the timing marks lined up, then I'm to rotate the engine 360 degrees until the timing marks line up again and ONLY THEN install the dizzy drive.  Correct?

guys thank you so much for your replies but it seems my problem is somewhere else.. will do another post! thank u all

This is very true.  I always line mine up to get the shortest vac line - the leads then look after themselves.

Cheers, Ian

The only limitation is when the dizzy drive gear is out of sync a tooth or two. Then the vac advance pot bumps into the oil pipe banjo (or somehting) and one can't set enough timing advance.

Sometimes pulling the dizzy can pull the drive gear out a bit (in an A+), then it drops back into plce a tooth or two out. Happened on mine.

If the timing dots are in line it is NOT firing on #1. (check the #1 cylinder's rockers then, they will both be tight). It is firing on #4 (both rockers loose, top of compression stroke).
When you turn the motor over 360° THEN it is firing on #1.
It has always been so, and none of the manuals will tell you this, this part of all books is just a reprint of the original BMC manual of the `60s.

The position of the dizzie drive dosn't matter..  As far as i can tell the only reason they suggest that particular alignment is that you will end up with neat plug leads..

Install dizzie whereever, rotate engine to TDC on No 1 firing stroke (stick finger in plug hole as you rotate engine to confirm compression).  Now, whereever the rotor tip is pointing IS the No 1 plug lead and the rest are counted off in order..

Dead easy, Ian

yeah but if i do that no1 will fire while on exhaust wouldnt it?

Yes, that pic in all the books assumes the valves are set for firing on #1 cylinder. However the timing dots on the cam sprockets are in line when firing on #4 cylinder. (Why, who knows...)
You need to turn the crank 360° from that point, THEN align the dizzy as shown in the pic. Or fit it now, 180° out as you implied.

its driving me nuts!! and the manual doesnt help at all! the pic on the manual shows the drive slot aligned with the center of the bolts, but it wont sit in that position unless its turned 180 degrees which sets the timing off!! any advice?

thanks in advance