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 Posted: Oct 7, 2014 12:54PM
 Edited:  Oct 7, 2014 12:55PM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

some problems doesnt really need repair or new part, some just need some cleaning and adjustments and lubrication. 

That is EXACTLY what we've been telling you to do about you ignition sytem.  Just fix it the way we've been telling you and save youself $500 and more grief when you can't get it working.

Post when you've done it.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Oct 7, 2014 09:53AM
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US

Valuable tool!!

 

 Posted: Oct 7, 2014 09:52AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

i'm here to show the world that minis are not only for rich people,it's for everybody who has passion for minis, 

how bout you zippy, what is the most expensive part that you bought for your mini?

Robster, zippy is private about his mountains of money.  His personal assistant does all his posts here so it'll take few minutes for a phone call to Aspen for a reply.

 Posted: Oct 7, 2014 06:58AM
 Edited:  Oct 7, 2014 07:36AM
jeg
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"at some point there was pointing fingers galore, blaming the cap, the wire, the carb jet,,(huh???), the plugs, worn shaft,"  Yes, the carb jet could have suffered an impact from the bulkhead and bent due to excessive engine movement as was described by you at the time.

If the advice given by myself or anyone else is considered "pointing fingers", well, then I'm frankly rather offended and rather disappointed. 

  • You ask for advice, don't take it. 

  • You tell us there's a problem, we see several. 

For example:

  • "if its not much to ask, pls can someone post a pic of  his  ditributor cap?  mine does not have a notch where the cap can sit and prevent it from moving,  on mine, only 2 clips is holding it to the shaft, so if the engine rans fast the vibration moves it then hesitation occurs. where did you buy your distributor cap? thanks" 

    • If you'd bothered to look at the cap, or provided reference materials/relevant products on this website, you'd see that the cap does in fact have a notch and the vacuum advance unit should be what has a tab to hold it in proper alignment.  Maybe replacing the vacuum advance unit to a 59D4 unit that is known to function with your distributor would solve that problem.  No, I won't give you the part number.

  • We see a wildly bent clutch rod, advise you that it should be straight and that some unqualified individual bent yours in a feeble effort to get the clutch to engage, and now you're complaining that the clutch doesn't engage properly or that you've got 'engine vibrations' or whatever the heck you're describing.  Not to discredit your effort in trying to refurbish your own rod-change selector unit, but I have a sneaky suspicion that it'll wear quicker now that you've added a bit of flat steel, an oil jug and a bicycle handle.

  • We see your ignition timing dancing all over the place and instead of looking up the method of adjustment or specification in your Haynes that a good friend gave you, (yah i have one,,courtesy of my very good friend, i dont want to mention his name,but he knows who he is...that booklet got tons of infos..  (what_every_new_mini_buyer_must_buy ).  Ask after adjustment if you've done it properly is certainly ok, but to think that you've solved the ignition problem with the indicator timing marks like that is pretty far fetched.  I'm happy for you that you have those timing marks on the pulley and timing chain cover - imagine that they weren't there, as many minis lack them and have the markings elsewhere.

  • You show us (VVS videos) and we try to give you the best advice possible based upon the narrow scope of what we're allowed to see.

  • I believe that you said that you've got experience with muscle cars and such - I can't speak for the others, but I really don't see much evidence of any automotive mechanical foundation.  Fine enough, we're willing to share in our experience, but we're not going to be ridiculed in the process.

  • Your communication is oftentimes incomplete and unclear.  We try to be mind-readers but it's hard for us to figure out what's going on in there. 

  • "lol, yeah, might be.....but now im kinda tired with points system, i am upgrading to electronic, im looking to get a flamethrower dizzy and a 40k volts coil, but seems like i cant find any compatible with my 59D4...everything i see online are for 45D 25D.....haaay

    and i want a more consistent spark, electronic is the only way to go"  As for your upgrading to electronic ignition, I SPOON FED you the 59D4 Petronix unit on another thread. (Hint: //www.minimania.com/msgThread/116311/1/1/sick_and_tired

    Or do you need the choo-choo version?

Open wide:  //www.minimania.com/part/LU243/Pertronix-Ignitor-Lucas-59d-Negative-Ground  Mmmmmm....  (Hahahahaahahaaa)

I could go on, but won't.  I, for one, have tried really hard to guide you, teach you, involve you, even welcome you; all to no avail.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 08:47PM
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some problems doesnt really need repair or new part, some just need some cleaning and adjustments and lubrication. 

i'm here to show the world that minis are not only for rich people,it's for everybody who has passion for minis, (im talking about the Austin minis, not the masking tape minis,lol),moke is ok. but too exposed.,it's nice to be mysterious once in a while.,plus, i need privacy..lol

how bout you zippy, what is the most expensive part that you bought for your mini?

 

 

 

how did you fit in that engine bay??? 

 

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 07:29PM
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US

Yep, that's the way to go.
It's not like you'll need the cash for neccessary repairs like a clutch or something......

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 07:23PM
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lol, yeah, might be.....but now im kinda tired with points system, i am upgrading to electronic, im looking to get a flamethrower dizzy and a 40k volts coil, but seems like i cant find any compatible with my 59D4...everything i see online are for 45D 25D.....haaay

and i want a more consistent spark, electronic is the only way to go

 

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 07:13PM
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lol im not goin to go back n slug thru all the posts but wasnt one of the first suggestions to check the point gap

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:55PM
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lol, zippy, remember the thing that happened to my distributor> i banged the car then suddenly it ran rough,, at some point there was pointing fingers galore, blaming the cap, the wire, the carb jet,,(huh???), the plugs, worn shaft, ....what i experienced was an isolated case.

not in the search engine, not in haynes , even ericthecarguy(google it) didn't have any clue on what went wrong on my dizzy.

it's the combination of common sense and street smartness which gave me the solution, and with the help of the member of this forum..thank ya'll. 

 

 

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:29PM
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Clutch judder.

The power of accurate observation is commonly called cynicism by those who have not got it. G.B.S. Sarcasm is the lowest form of wit. Oscar Wilde

//www.cupcakecooper.ca/

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:27PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

what do you think is the reason for engine vibration? during take off and when shifting gears.  in a scale of 1 to 10, the vibration is maybe 5.

i installed engine support in front but still vibrating during take off.

and when i step on the clutch pedal,i can hear minimal grumbling noise,and feel very minimal vibration on the clutch pedal.

 

any idea?  thanks

I think that you're finding one of the many reasons that you could buy the Mini so cheap.

Not that there's anything wrong with that. Plenty of folks have brought cars worse than yours back to a good standard over time. But, most of them would take the time to read the manuals and research on this and several other message boreds.
I'm thinking you need to take a few deep breaths and step away from the car for a few days.

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:26PM
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mightymouse, 

i can feel the shaking on the engine bay, during take off and when the car is in motion,ONLY when shifting.. the upper steadies is pretty sturdy....

do you think its in the clutch department?, sychro?,clutch pad?, im very sure it's not sliding, the pad might still be thick.

 

 

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:15PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by robster

can't find the search function. 

It's the thing at the top of the page... that says "Search".

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:07PM
 Edited:  Oct 6, 2014 06:16PM
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Or did you listen to anyone that told you to check your other engine steadies? I have a feeling your upper engine steady is trash. And you could probably use the other lower engine steadies.

 

But to be totally honest, I haven't got one single clue what you're talking about. "Vibration" is about as vague as it gets. Can you feel the vibration from a stop? Can you feel it while shifting gears at speed? Where do you feel the vibration? Steering wheel? clutch pedal?

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 06:02PM
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can't find the search function. 

 

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 05:46PM
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It's moving, would be a simple answer!  Not to sound like a broken record but did you search previous threads before posting this?

 Posted: Oct 6, 2014 05:37PM
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what do you think is the reason for engine vibration? during take off and when shifting gears.  in a scale of 1 to 10, the vibration is maybe 5.

i installed engine support in front but still vibrating during take off.

and when i step on the clutch pedal,i can hear minimal grumbling noise,and feel very minimal vibration on the clutch pedal.

 

any idea?  thanks