Mine was a 77 liftback GT with 18RG. it was low, fast and loud. But full or rust lol I guess I'm just into those things still but I recently raised the ride height of the mini since it doesn't look right. What's the standard PSI of the mini water pump?

Yeah, I had a Celica also at one time, a 1975 'ST' (20R, removed the air pump and all that stuff, Weber 32/36 DGV and associated intake, Crane camshaft, Pacesetter header, Ansa exhaust, reworked dizzy and all sorts o'goodies).

I remember that the Toyota grill/bumper also sat a bit higher off the ground than the mini does.  Around here, a decent speed bump would leave you stranded.

Hurts to look at and it's only the first trial but I'm still finding ways to tuck it somewhere without getting hit by debri plus I still have 2 more pairs of Lucas and marchal lamps to be mounted so I need to move it or else I might noto find a spot for the lights. But Ive had the same set up with my previous japanese classic Celica. this look was popular in Japan. But it's not for everyone.

Do you really want the aux radiator sitting in the path of kicked-up road debris?  Haven't you unintentionally let enough coolant escape?

Seriously - look at Hunter2's picture - a single heater core tucked right behind the RH corner of the grill, the rearmost (engine bay side) heater core inlet nipple plumbed to the cylinder head take-off, the outermost (grill-side) heater core outlet nipple plumbed to the pipe that connects to the lower radiator hose. 

Simple, protected by the grill and effective.

Im not good with explaining so I made a diagram. I aplogize if this isnt a perfect engine bay but it works for me and what knowldege I have but please do point out some things that arent safe or if theres a better option Im all ears. Im still building a housing sturdy enough for the heater core but this should suffice for version 1.0   

What aluminum tube?

By the way please enlighten me if you find something here that I'm doing wrong. But to be honest I like the look of the core mounted in front. it adds character to the car.

//www.minimania.com/classic-mini-cooper-diy-articles.cfm?id=1506

Boison,

This might help. It helped me understand it all. Well almost.. But I'm getting there slowly.

Hmmm...

I suggest you look up the definition of an intercooler and how they work.

We all think you're an idiot, but writing things like that proves it.

I've been observing this thread for awhile now and made my attempt to remove my heater core from the heater box. But instead of feeding the return hose straight to the rubber hose going to water pump, I still routed it back to the aluminum tube. It did improve a bit. I peak at 190 Fahrenheit on the freeway which 90% of the Cooper's commute is. (I saw that the maximum power for A series engines are found at 160-170 degrees Fahrenheit but read on this site that the oil doesn't get hot enough so I was aiming for the optimum required 185-194 degree F )  I got home today and shortened that return hose. I bought a brass fitting and hooked up the end of return hose straight to the rubber hose to the water pump. I even wrapped that return hose with high temp 1000 degree thermal wrap insulation. Test drove it and got myself 185 degrees on the freeway around noon today. It's wishful thinking but I'd like to stay just under 190 especially summer is here I'm sure it will climb and I wanna be ready for it.

My air fuel mixture is ok, spark plugs color are tan but this old 3 core radiator spare I'm using now is nothing compared to the 2 core radiator I punctured Which is the reason I pulled the heater core out. The expansion tank I made is effective too In my experience. My idle stays consistent around 800-900 on my tach even at highest temp. 

as soon as I'm done finalizing a housing for this aux rad, I'll mount a rally plate in front to hide it a bit and somehow design a rudder of some sort to still redirect ram air to the core.

I've never offered you an apology. Don't see any need to.

Edit: An intercooler on a N/A A series. Yeah, why don't you spend your time 'n effort on that. I'm sure it'll get the Mini above 45mph

that's the reason why i am thinking of installing an intercooler on my mini, i wanted to experiment if indeed there is an increase in Hp if cold air is being sucked in the combustion chamber,as suppose to warm or hot air. That theory has not been proven tho.

Yes. That's it, in a nutshell.

Cars with separate intake and exhaust manifolds have the intake manifold tube in series with the cabin heater after the heater. It is a cylindrical tube about 1/2" diameter. Since the copper (?) tube is cast into aluminum, it transfers a bit of heat, but probably does not contribute to cooling much.

Some cars do not have heaters; they may have an aux rad in lieu of a heater, in the heater circuit. 

Ok, since no one was able to find a cooling diagram, I made my own.  Can someone confirm if the flow paths and directions of arrows are correct.

You need a bigger water pump pulley possible, to reduce water flow into the radiator at high rpm.

I am not hear to explain this stuff you dream up to you, look it up yourself.

There is no traffic in racing and i would say that the oil does not get hot enough sitting still on a regular road car just my opinion.

Based on your "theory" and i use that word lightly in your case why don't they put a fan in front of an additional radiator on a Mini ?

Still doing shifts must be up to 48 hours straight by now......

what use can a cooler be without something to cool it??   oil will just enter the cooler hot and will go out still hot..doesn't make any sense... there should be a high speed fan directed to the oil cooler.  don't rely on air coming from outside. what if you're stuck in traffic?????????

Done right and Boison are not compatible :-)

FWIW i have never seen an oil cooler with a fan on it thermostatically controlled or not.

It is commonly known that most street cars do not need an oil cooler.

That suprises me and doesn't make sense.  Where was your oil cooler mounted and how was the piping connected?  If you had it near the top of the engine dumping heat back on the engine where the water temp sensor is, that could explain it. 

In general the idea of cooling your oil with an oil cooler to help control overall engine temps is logical and should be helpful if done right.  Have to even agree with Boisson on this one. 

And it is sheer insanity to just add an oil cooler that isn't thermostatically controlled.