Malcom, Swiftune makes a condenser that's mounted external to the dizzy to help keep it cool.  I've seen it, and it's very nicely made.

//www.swiftune.com/Product/535/swiftune-competition-condenser.aspx 

I've also heard great things about The Distributor Doctors's condensers, though I've not used any.  His (Martin's) caps and rotors are top-notch, and the condenser that came back with my dizzy 'feels' good - I compared it to the Unipart condensers that I'd stocked up on and Martin's is better made.

Check this out:  //www.distributordoctor.com/distributor_condensers.htm

I have been reliably informed that the condensor problem was due to a manufacturer keeping costs down by only putting in half the material required in the capacitor !

Perhaps Boison's Haines Manual should be for despair not repair...

They fail at an alarming rate lately. One trip i did and after two new ones ended up using a 70's spare condenser a friend had with him that is still in there working to this day, and i am not about to mess with it. Another trip different car with a 2 month old condenser that failed so i then i put in a new spare one and the car would not even fire !!! I ended up getting a condensor from a parts store nearby off a 60's Chevy which was way too big so i mounted it on the outside of the distributor and it is still going strong. Reason for not going to electronic was i have plans to change out the one engine to an A+ 1275 and the other i really want the correct factory electronic ignition for it and as it has not seen much use for the last year it is not on my priority list.

Remember the days when condensers lasted often a lifetime? The ones these days seem to last anything between seconds and months, not years sadly.

One loose spring is ok, remember from all that research you've done by reading the Articles and Technical Information pages that the dizzy has a primary and a secondary spring.  The 'wobbly' spring won't tension until the centrifugal weight spins fast enough to separate the pins and tension the spring which'll reduce the rate at which the pins separate, thus altering the mechanical advance curve.  I believe the Haynes also has a paragraph or two describing this process.

You still need to tell the engine when you'd like it to fire the spark plugs, so yes, you still need to adjust the ignition timing by either advancing or retarding it as needed.  The advantage (if not a liability) of electronic over points is stability.  Contact breaker points don't fail, people fail to maintain them.  Condensers occasionally fail, but if it leaves you stranded, you can always find a condenser that'll work - might be from a VW Beetle, but it'll work.  If the electronic igniton fails, and you don't have an extra one in the boot, you're either stranded or looking for a set of points and a condenser to get you home.

You will more than likely still need to adjust the timing and check it periodically as stock small bore Mini's like yours came with a single timing chain without a tensioner which get slack very quickly, usually noticed by a rattle at idle. The cure is to either replace it with the duplex (twin) one or convert it to the later A + single one with a tensioner. The tach dancing around is more than likely an electrical issue maybe them crap mis matched plug wires you currently have installed.

thanks to both of you,,, yah me too, i always watch his videos , hilarious but VERY informative. i suscribed to his account.

aanyway, another question, if i go to electronic ignition, will it get rid of me needing to advance or retard it? since it says on the label , no need to replace points again and no need to do timing etc. is this one of the advantage of elec dizzy over points?  

i believe one of the springs attached to the mechanical advance is wobbly(no tension) on my 59d4 dizzy, i notice my tack is dancing very slightly

Hence my "and there's nothing wrong with a contact breaker points ignition system - as long as your distributor doesn't have wear in the shaft and you service/adjust the points once a year or so." text.

It's either velocity's or Robster's video, once posted on Pacific Luke's YouTube page.  Sadly, this library is no longer found on Pacific Luke's page, but I've preserved them in perpetuity for all to enjoy.  No need to thank me, just another magnanimous gesture...

I'm sure the Metro has an associated Haynes that would have the data, just try avoiding this Haimes manual.  Trust me, it's not what you want.

Good video, John. Interesting how it shows the timing mark bouncing around a bit. One reason for that kind of randomness is worn distributor bushings, allowing the shaft to wobble about. My points dizzy did that and was eventually replaced.  

About the tooth count, I was going by memory. As the old story goes "when all else fails, read the manual". (I will now go and sit in the corner for 10 minutes.)

"Of course, it's all in the Haynes.  Heck, you can even look up which engine you've got and the book will give you the factory's intended ignition timing specifications." Not exactly... my Haines only shows "Mini" engines, as originally installed in their respective cars. Most of us have something "else". For example my 12HA83AA isn't listed there because it came out of (I don't knoww exactly what) a MG Metro type car.

Now, how about that...

Funny, I took an additional 1½ degree out of my igniton timing today, found that around 5000 - 5500 rpm I was getting 33° advance, so I adjusted it down a tad. 

Of course, it's all in the Haynes.  Heck, you can even look up which engine you've got and the book will give you the factory's intended ignition timing specifications.

Here's a video that should look familiar - and there's nothing wrong with a contact breaker points ignition system - as long as your distributor doesn't have wear in the shaft and you service/adjust the points once a year or so.

The long tooth refers to Top Dead Center (TDC) and each 'tooth' on the timing cover scale is 4°. 

Rotating the distributor anti-clockwise will 'retard' the ignition; cause the spark for nr. 1 spark plug to occur closer to but still before Top Dead Center, rotating the distributor clockwise will 'advance' the ignition timing; cause the spark for nr. 1 spark plug to occur even earlier in the compression stroke.  Sparky before TDC is commonly refered to as BTDC.  

In this video, it appears that the spark is occuring at TDC, but then what do I know...  Of course, it's all in the Haynes.  Heck, you can even look up which standard spec. engine you've got and the book will give you the factory's intended ignition timing specifications.  Try turning the distributor clockwise so that the paint mark on the pulley lines up with the 2nd small tooth closest to the long TDC tooth on the scale and see how it feels. 

If you've got an adjustable timing light and a tachometer, try a increase in rpms up to around 4500 rpm and adjust the distributor such that the timing light is set to 32° and the pulley's paint mark lines up with the long TDC tooth at 4500 rpm. 

I took an additional 1½ degree out of my igniton timing today; found that around 5000 - 5500 rpm I was getting 33° advance, so I adjusted it down a tad.

OK. From my experience, your timing should be somewhere mid-range, more or less where it is at. There is a small chance that the lack of performance is because the timing is too advanced - beyond the "sweet" spot.

To set timing,

1. first you need to check your points condition and gap - a dwell meter is more accurate than feeler guages.
2. disconnect the vacuum advance and plug the tube connected to the carb or it will act like a carb air leak.
3. then set your idle speed to specification (could be 600rpm, 1000 rpm or 1500rpm, depending on your engine, but you must look it up.)
4. Connect your timing light and see where the timing seems to be.
5. loosen the clamp on your distributor base and turn it very slightly one way, obeserving which direction the timing mark moves.
6. the "0" repersents "top-dead-centre" or zero timing advance; the "10" means 10 degrees of initial advance. (Some cars may have "12" or some other number). Note your sketch may have one too manyy teeth in it - each tooth and notch should represent 1 (one) degree.
7. to advance timing, move the distibutor so the mark moves toward the "10"
8. to retart timing, turn it the other way.
9. tighten the distributor clamp.
10. reconnect vacuum advance. Note with the vacuum advance connected. The pulley mark should disappear off the scale becaus at idle, the vaccum advance maybe 25 degrees (??I'm guessing) is added to the intial timing of say 8 degrees for a total in the 30's... off the scale. 
11. reset your preferred idle speed - one that idles smoothly but quietly,- 800 to1000 rpm, depending on your motor and its condition.

BIG CAUTION!

The noise going uphill in 4th is probably "pinking" or engine knock. It is BAD for your engine. There are several possible causes.

1. you are "lugging" the engine - trying to make it work too hard for the rpms - you need to downshift or ease off, or both.
2. the fuel you are using is too low octane for the compresion ratio of your engine - use better fuel.
3. your timing is too advanced - less likely if your rpms are low.

As always, the ability of an engine to rev depends on its condition (is it a good engine or worn out, are the valves in good condition and their lash gap set properly etc.), whether the fuel system and carb are working properly and in good condition, and if the dwell and timing are set correctly. 

MORE CAUTION

If the timing light you are using is one of those fancy ones that you can use o read total advance (I have no idea HOW that works), turn the feature off so what you are seeing is the true reading. You do NOT want to be setting 30 degrees of timing ...... EVER!

Depending on the engine,

• Static timing (engine turned off)  should be somewhere between 0 and 10 degree
• stoboscopic timing (using a timing light) with vacuum advance disconected should be between 3 deg and about 12 deg. 

This is my current timing set up, as you can see the white dot is almost about halfway on both ends, my question is,how can i advance my timing?(or if need to) , the engine runs great, smooth and quiet, it's just that when im at about 45mph, it seems that it doesnt wanna rev more.  pedal is 1/4 to 1/2 to the ground.

 plus going uphill, at 4th gear, i hear ticking, i'll get easy on gas then ticking goes away.

if you say advance the timing to 30degrees, does it mean moving the white dot lower near the "10" mark ..or near the "0" mark?....or??

pls help...

ps: mechanical and vacuum advances both working/ new points and condenser installed.

sorry the pic is upside down