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 Posted: Mar 19, 2016 03:17PM
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that what im thinking sir jeg, but i banged one of the clips on the arm quite impossible to use, hmmm or maybe i can... Ill try thanks

 

 Posted: Mar 19, 2016 03:11PM
jeg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
So the reason why i revived this thread is because i have an important question.  Its about the jet..   I suspect that the jet on my  carb is grtting stuck at some point, normally, when i pull the choke, the jet should go down right?? And when i release the choke, the jet  should go up, but i suspect mine does not go up fully on original setting then thats the reason why sometimes i feel like my carb tuning becomes rich, i know something might be preventing it from going back up.  My question is can i possibly sand paper the jet so it will slide freely with out resistance?


Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
This is my old jet and the slightly used crappy AAT needle, and its not going back to my carb, Anyone wants my needle?? Just pay for the shipping.

oh , and handling fee as well.
Try putting the old jet back in - 


The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Mar 19, 2016 03:06PM
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So the reason why i revived this thread is because i have an important question.  Its about the jet..   I suspect that the jet on my  carb is grtting stuck at some point, normally, when i pull the choke, the jet should go down right?? And when i release the choke, the jet  should go up, but i suspect mine does not go up fully on original setting then thats the reason why sometimes i feel like my carb tuning becomes rich, i know something might be preventing it from going back up.  My question is can i possibly sand paper the jet so it will slide freely with out resistance?

 

 Posted: Mar 19, 2016 03:06PM
jeg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
That jet looks bent to me .......
EVERYBODY! That's an inside joke from a long time ago... all resolved now.
( Funny though, Malsal!)
Hahaha! Even sir Mal , can't believe that it can possibly happen... Ooops! Lol
Can't believe that a jet can become bent from banging into the bulkhead?  Weak engine mounts, broken or damaged engine steadies can result in a bent jet.  It really is a well known phenomenon.

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Mar 19, 2016 02:59PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan Moffet
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
That jet looks bent to me .......
EVERYBODY! That's an inside joke from a long time ago... all resolved now.
( Funny though, Malsal!)
Hahaha! Even sir Mal , can't believe that it can possibly happen... Ooops! Lol

 

 Posted: Feb 28, 2016 07:25AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
That jet looks bent to me .......
EVERYBODY! That's an inside joke from a long time ago... all resolved now.
( Funny though, Malsal!)

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 27, 2016 11:00AM
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That jet looks bent to me .......

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 27, 2016 10:47AM
 Edited:  Feb 27, 2016 10:48AM
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This is my old jet and the slightly used crappy AAT needle, and its not going back to my carb, Anyone wants my needle?? Just pay for the shipping.

oh , and handling fee as well.

 

 Posted: Feb 27, 2016 09:17AM
jeg
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Dan, he couldn't be bothered to post a picture of the needle that was sitting in the carb as requested - he posted an AAC needle that was sitting in a box or on the shelf and not used in the carb for the last 8 months or so. 

The needle he posted a picture of was apparently the AAC needle that came installed when he bought the car - and it apparently worked well.  Whatever possessed him to buy, install and complain about a different needle (AAT) is beyond me.  It's astonishing also that he repeatedly mentioned that the needle he'd been using was the AAC - in fact by his own estimation, the AAC hadn't been used in around 8 months.

It's pointless - he's got a Haynes and won't open it - not for his carb issues, not for his suspension issues, not for his brake issues.  All the help and advice given on this thread by yourself, MiniMike, scooperman, myself and the others who've chimed in (politely and in good faith) have been S*** upon once again. 


It's like a circle, not a triangle.  A triangle has like a corner in the ends, this one is a circle...

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 27, 2016 05:48AM
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CA
Adding restrictors won't help the bad turbulence at the mouth to the carb. Just put on the original air cleaner system and tune the engine for it. Once you have it running properly, then you can experiment.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 27, 2016 12:32AM
 Edited:  Feb 27, 2016 01:25AM
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Wow, what a huge difference in the size of the hole., the original filter restricts more air. ,, i need to simulate that restriction., so i inserted this restricter inside the gizmo pipe right before where the KN filter sits,  looks like its working ok. Runs so 'fn smooth. 



but, if i get the long bolt for the spaceship filter, i will install it and observe the difference

 

 Posted: Feb 26, 2016 09:46PM
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Papa john, i have 2 needles, my mistake was i assumed that the one   On the carb was AAC because the guy  whom i bought it from  said he is sure that he gave me the one fitted for my carb, he might have assumed that my carb was HS2,, ,, but in fact it is an HS4... But i will observe the performance tomorrow while i drive along the lakeshore.

 

 Posted: Feb 26, 2016 09:04PM
 Edited:  Feb 26, 2016 09:09PM
jeg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
The letters on the needle says AAC (??) there are no numbers tho.

1)my carb i believe is HS4.
2)998cc  A+ series engine 13k miles on the odo. ( if i ever want to sell this car, i will drive backwards so that the total mileage will decrease and will look new,,,anyway)
3) the timing is set i believe is at # 10
4) it set at 900sh rmp
5) valve clearance, im using the factory settings which is 0.012
6) spark plug gap is a 0.25  ( purist's gap) 
7) im using 5w-30 motor oil for dashpot
8) spring inside the carb is stock, still virgin, never been stretched.
9)i dropped the cylindrical thing inside the carb, no resistance/ok , i hear a good clank.
10)  throttle shaft movement about 60% ( i can tell , its a little worn out)
11) sir jeg, sir dan,  the TDM thing is too technical, how do i determine it, pls walk me through.
12) gas 87 unleaded
13) im using 3.0 amps flamethrower coil and  pertronix dizzy  6months in use.
14) newly installed high performace spark plug wires/ color red ( the    Wrapper says, "Congratulations on having purchased the finest quality ignition wire set available", ,  i felt good , reading it.
15) im using cone KN filter.  Attached to a 3 inch chrome pipping. Makes intake air cool.
16)  im using glass fuel filter, but soon will go to Goulan performance fuel filter.
17)  im using castrol 20/50 oil
18) as of now, i did not mix any lucas oil stabilizer or seafoam on my oil or gas. ( your wish is my command)
19) new valve cover gasket/ cork
20) still using stock 45 amps alternator
21) stock radiator and pipes,tubes and cap
22) this car comes with a breather canister, all coraned up, tubes has no leaks, t-connector is new. /( more like an F to me,not T)
23) stock  and leaking slave valve ( leaks about 10gtt/ day) not bad
24)stock manual fuel pump ( i knaw, anytime it might stall me in the middle of the road, any advice on a good elec fuel pump?)
25) engine bolts and nuts retorque'd a year ago
26) oil has no coolant and  coolant has no oil. I did the centrifuge test., and it passed with flying rainbow colors.
27)  im planning to do a dyno test but, i dont think my mini is ready yet
28) float is not stuck, floating freely./ overflow tube, no gas smell, means no leak. Valve stopper is working as its supposed to.
29) KN filter has been sprayed with KN oil, 2 coats
30) lean and rich nut has a spring in it, i checked.
31) vacuum advance is working as welll, i checked.
32) im using NGK BPR6ES  stock # 7131 spark plug

.::: that's all for now, ill add more as i go along... Thanks

Uh huh...

Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
 
Really now...

Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
Im having a hard time posting pictures, i post link to my photobucket and that link should be placed in between this ---> IMG right?but as soon as i do that, the p on the http got replaced by a smiley icon, is there a way to post pic correctly? How


and on the chart that you posted, mine is 99H, 1978-1983 and i needed to use ADE needle,, mine is AAC, so i got the wrong one.
i need to get the ADE needle


Seriously?

Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
Oh my Gash! you won't believe this, i took off the current needle I'm using and discovered that the number is AAT ,i just bought this needle about 8months ago and started using it since then and a new jet as well, that was when the time i started experiencing on and off smooth and roughness on performance,,, the AAC needle that i mention previously was the needle i was using when i first bought the mini, and it was running perfect,no dieseling and starting is excellent that time,, now what i did was to install the AAC back, and oh gosh, the ride is super smooth,,yes i still have the gizmo pipe and KN filter on, ..i will observe till tomorrow and keep you updated.

So the picture that you posted, after we all requested that you remove the needle and tell us what it was, wasn't in fact the needle that you had sitting in the carb. 

What a friggin' waste of time...  Good luck to you. 




The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 26, 2016 08:07PM
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Oh my Gash! you won't believe this, i took off the current needle I'm using and discovered that the number is AAT ,i just bought this needle about 8months ago and started using it since then and a new jet as well, that was when the time i started experiencing on and off smooth and roughness on performance,,, the AAC needle that i mention previously was the needle i was using when i first bought the mini, and it was running perfect,no dieseling and starting is excellent that time,, now what i did was to install the AAC back, and oh gosh, the ride is super smooth,,yes i still have the gizmo pipe and KN filter on, ..i will observe till tomorrow and keep you updated.

 

 Posted: Feb 25, 2016 04:01AM
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CA
Quote:
Originally Posted by jeg
Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
I think it was Calver who tested air flow through various filters and determined a slightly modified stock HS4 filter housing with i believe a K & N filter worked the best.
Yes, but keep in mind that the mini it was tested on had a Maniflow freeflow exhaust manifold, the MiniSpares intake, an RC40 twin-box side exit exhaust. 

If he'd installed any of the K&N's tested on a mini with stock exhaust and factory needle, he'd have lost power.

In short, the mini had a PROPER STAGE 1 KIT and the venerable HS4 carb was fitted with the needle that came with the kit. 


In fact, I once tried to run my twin HS2 carbs without filters on the 850.  Of course, I was also using a small-bore LCB and twin-box RC40.  The result was that the mixture went wildly weak, rendering the vehicle almost undriveable.  So, slapped a pair of OEM paper filters (Coopers) into the air filter box and it immediately ran better; in fact I needed to turn the mixture nuts up one flat.  Sweet engine, that one was...
Calver's recommendation was that the stock housing with a K&N stock-shaped circular filter worked as well as or better than the cone K&N, if a certain number and size of holes were drilled through the housing to improve breathing to the housing.
The Freeflow and RC40 provide the optimum (more or less) in exhaust scavenging, reducing air pressure in the cylinder to increase the draft on the carb. Jeg is right that the stock exhaust wouldn't provide as good scavenging.

The point is that adding gizmos to the stock HS4 on a stock manifold and exhaust would make the motor work poorly without the appropriate changes to needle/jetting. THAT takes experience, a big selection of needles and proper diagnostic machines to analyze what is actually going on.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 24, 2016 07:36PM
jeg
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Quote:
Originally Posted by malsal
I think it was Calver who tested air flow through various filters and determined a slightly modified stock HS4 filter housing with i believe a K & N filter worked the best.
Yes, but keep in mind that the mini it was tested on had a Maniflow freeflow exhaust manifold, the MiniSpares intake, an RC40 twin-box side exit exhaust. 

If he'd installed any of the K&N's tested on a mini with stock exhaust and factory needle, he'd have lost power.

In short, the mini had a PROPER STAGE 1 KIT and the venerable HS4 carb was fitted with the needle that came with the kit. 


In fact, I once tried to run my twin HS2 carbs without filters on the 850.  Of course, I was also using a small-bore LCB and twin-box RC40.  The result was that the mixture went wildly weak, rendering the vehicle almost undriveable.  So, slapped a pair of OEM paper filters (Coopers) into the air filter box and it immediately ran better; in fact I needed to turn the mixture nuts up one flat.  Sweet engine, that one was...

The peasants are revolting...          

"Gone with the Wind" - a brief yet moving vignette concerning lactose intolerance

 Posted: Feb 24, 2016 02:03PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by triggerboy
Yeah, i believe so too sir Mal, KN has the best non restrictive airflow among the rest,,, but then sir jeg has a good point too, Air intake should work hand in hand with the exhaust in order for the engine to run perfect, he stated that KN, doesn't do good if my exhaust is stock and has 1 inch bore pipe, and two mufflers, which i guess makes a lot of sense. i'm trying to analyze things and on how our mini engines and SU carb and filter and exhaust works...i think im getting a good grasp of it now...
I agree with Jeg but was just stating that a stock housing with or without a K&N for that matter works better than all those rice burner boy racer add on's you have. A bonus is it sounds a lot better too.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Feb 24, 2016 11:47AM
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CA
So.... start at the top. The stock air cleaner system works fine with the stock exhaust you have. The exhaust is pretty closely tuned for the 998cc engine.
Put the air cleaner system back on. I'd bet that even with no filter element installed in the housing, it would run better than with your chromed snorkel/sewer.

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Feb 24, 2016 11:21AM
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Yeah, i believe so too sir Mal, KN has the best non restrictive airflow among the rest,,, but then sir jeg has a good point too, Air intake should work hand in hand with the exhaust in order for the engine to run perfect, he stated that KN, doesn't do good if my exhaust is stock and has 1 inch bore pipe, and two mufflers, which i guess makes a lot of sense. i'm trying to analyze things and on how our mini engines and SU carb and filter and exhaust works...i think im getting a good grasp of it now...

 

 Posted: Feb 24, 2016 11:01AM
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I think it was Calver who tested air flow through various filters and determined a slightly modified stock HS4 filter housing with i believe a K & N filter worked the best.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

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