Tony,

Remove the needle from your carb (previously requested) and tell us what the markings are on the base of it.  Also, take a picture of your carb and tell us what the ignition timing is set at when the engine is turning 1000 rpm and the vacuum advance is disconnected and the hose plugged. (wouldn't want a vacuum leak).

I never called you 'custard' - Called you many other things, but not 'custard'.

There's nothing wrong with an HS4 carb, particularly the one you've got as it's the cheapest option and if it's sorted, it's well suited to your engine.  All you need to do is 'listen' and 'learn' and 'play nice'.  So, stop whining and get the actual information about your car and some good quality relevant pictures (previously requested) posted, because believe it or not, some of these guys haven't given up on your car.  Maybe have given up on you, but not your car. 

You know where to find a rebuild kit if needed - our Host, Berlen Fuel Systems, 7ent, MSC, etc... 

This is Alex's offer.  Not the modified suits-you-better version that you re-wrote.  I also offered a free HIF38 to you, and I didn't require a photograph either.  All you had to do is E-mail an address to me (could have been your local Burger King's address or any other address) for me to send it to.  But you f*cktarded around and consequently didn't get it.  DB whiner...

I read Alex's reply in Michael Caine's voice for some reason but also tempts me to become a douchebag on this board! lol

You're quite right Lying Troll - I did indeed extend the same offer to you for a Lucas 65D4 distributer, all you had to do was post the photographs and you'd get free things... No photos... No free things...
Technically the offer is still standing...
This is why I'm confident enough to offer the ultrasonically cleaned and fully rebuilt carb of my daily driver - it just isn't going to happen.

Also, had your tiny little Troll brain engaged into a forwards gear instead of into misguided rant, you could have asked if it was a double-up deal... but you didn't as you aren't that clever.
All you had to do was post the photos we have been asking for for 18+months to get the carb AND the dizzy that you so crave....

Post the pics by Sunday evening and you can have both and I'll pay half the shipping.

I am not sure the specific carb has been identified, but they are available:
http/www.minimania.com/part/WZX1177/Throtle-Spindle-Hs4

thanks sir scooperman , sir tinsmith and sir Dan and the rest,,, i was fiddling with the carb this afternoon, and i noticed that the shaft(the cylindrical metal that runs across the carb that holds the butterfly) has a play.,, in the scale of 1-10,10 being the highest, the degree of play maybe 6 .
i dunno if it might be the cause of inconsistent driving performance of my mini or...you guys are the expert, pls help.,, and is the shaft replaceable??

sir Alex, i remember "someone" promised  to send me a free electronic distributor..,,i kept waiting till my hair went gray, guess what, it didn't came...

oooops! 

anyway, sir alex,  a lot of kind hearted members here offered to send me parts for free, it's fine with me if they want me to send pic of my mini, a current newspaper, a custard(which i dunno what a custard means, i know jeg always calls me custard, I'm not affected because i dunno what it meant,l, and what not, the only thing i don't agree to is that they wanted me to send pics of myself standing beside my mini,showing my face, , ya'll guys know that i had a bad experience with it, a certain Air2air, used his computer knowledge to steal the picture of my naked body and face and managed to create a photo wherein i was hugging a can of WD40,,myyyy goodness!!! who in the right mind would do that. gosh!
Now if you want me to post pic of me standing beside my mini, i will do it, without showing my face...deal?? then i get the HIF38 carb of yours.....

The SU is a simple beast.  Clean it.  Check the slop in the shafts.  Check the float needle and seat, set the float height.  Put in an almost-correct needle and jet and it will run.  Centralize the jet, make sure the piston falls down all the way after you lift it up and let it go, and it will run better.  Set up the mixture at hot idle and then driving it up hills will tell you about the rest of the needle...that is, if everything else is OK.   But.  Yes there is always a but.  One thing we assume and hope is that the float level stays there just like we want it to while we drive the car and try to figure out the carb problems.  If the float level should be foofing around while you are trying to drive, the SU will be unhappy and so will you and nothing will be consistent. So pull the pump and test it, or replace it with a known pump, or make up a little gravity-feed gas tank duct-taped to the windshield (done it) just so you can eliminate the pump and test things with consistency.

You guys are wasting your time trying to be nice to an habitual liar and trouble maker.

So...

If Triggerboy posts the much called for photos of the legendary tin of custard to prove he actually HAS a Mini, and isn't just a Troll, then I'll remove the HIF38 from Betty for him.

Assorted photos with good resolution and a sensible size of a tin of custard in the engine bay, sat on the drivers seat with the dashboard in view, and one of him holding the custard in one hand and the latest copy of Hot Rod magazine in the other.

Post them on this forum and he can have the carb off my car...

I'm that confident it won't happen.

Thanks guys, ok ill take some videos of the carb as soon as i get home from work. 

+2

I found this to be a big cause of issues I had.

Maybe it would help you guys if you saw what you're diagnosing.  Unfortunately, with this website's new format being slower, I'm not sure if my video embedding on the other thread actually worked. 

These videos were originally found on Tony's YouTube page and are in near chronological order.  I'm not sure if cleaning the float chamber was first, but the round plastic HS4 air cleaner was 'earlier' than the later videos, and the videos will give some insight as to possible causes.  And, before anyone asks, I have not altered, changed or modified in any way these videos, not even the titles. 

I downloaded them and now host them on my own YouTube page for purely educational purposes.


 


 


 


At 1:38 into the video, the bonnet is lifted and a current view of the carb, air filter and throttle arrangement is available. 

 


I agree with Dan whole heartedly that it's a real shame that this mini is forced to suffer like that.  This is possibly out of my league...

edit:  Ok, got the videos loaded...  Prob'ly 'splains a lot...


" 6.  Test the needle and jet alignment. Remove the black dashpot cap and plunger (where the oil goes in). Lift the dashpot using the small lift-pin, and let it drop. If no lift-pin, remove the air cleaner and use your finger. It should drop with a small clunk. If not, your jet and needle are not centred. "

Dan, this car (can't remember if it was a 1977 or 1979 or whatever it is) probably has a biased needle.  Assuming that it has a biased needle, and Waxstat jet, there's no jet-centering necessary.  And, I might add, I've never had a Waxstat jet fail - I know many who look down on them, but they can last for years and years and wouldn't cause the problems Tony's allegedly having. 

It's also clear from the video that it's an A+ and previous threads (Robster or Velocity) established that it was a 998.  Remember the thread where we told him to take the tape off of the number in order that it could be read and confirmed.

Assuming Tony really wants help, he's got to be honest about what he's done to it, honest about what he's installed, honest in his presentation and honest about what the car is doing.  My 2 cents recommendation - take the silly stuff off of it, get it running with original equipment parts, then re-decorate it and re-tune it one piece at a time - as you all know, changes to the induction system necessitate changes to the fueling and possibly ignition systems.

If running is being inconsistent, then I would check for a worn throttle shaft. If the carburetor is old and never attended to, this will cause inconsistent running and no adjustment will correct it.

If it is really worn, it can be felt. If not you need to spray starter fluid or something else at the ends of the shaft.

But there could be any number of causes, so proceed with Dan's list first.

First, we need to verify which engine and carb you actually have:
 1.  Please confirm your engine is a 998cc A+.
 2.  Post photos of your carb. I don't think you have a HS2. More likely a HS4

Next tell us what needle and jet you installed when you replaced them.  If your engine is not highly modified, then the standard jet and needle should work pretty well.
 3. Is the jet a Waxstat type or the plain type?
 4. What is the number on the needle - you need to remvoe the needle and read it if you don't have it written down somewhere.

Things to check on your carb.
 5.  The there should be a spring between the idle mixture nut and the jet guide nut. If it is missing, the idle mixture won't stay where you set it.
 6.  Test the needle and jet alignment. Remove the black dashpot cap and plunger (where the oil goes in). Lift the dashpot using the small lift-pin, and let it drop. If no lift-pin, remove the air cleaner and use your finger. It should drop with a small clunk. If not, your jet and needle are not centred.
 7.  Next, verify which spring is inside the dash-pot. Carefully remove the 3 screws and lift the dashpot out. Drain the oil out. Push the dashpot piston all the way up and the top of the damper will stick out the hole where you removed the damper cap. Remove the clip and then slide the piston down and out. Inside, between the piston and the shell, you will find a large spring. Be careful not to damage it and do not modify it in any way - it is carefully calibrated. You should be able to see some faint colouring on it, most likely red or blue. Report what you find and reassemble the carb.

Once you give us this information, we can tell you what to do next.