Yes sir Dan, there is a significant rattle in the throttle shaft, i temporarily put thick grease around the shaft to seal it and prevent sucking ait from the outside and making it leaner.
On the other note , i am also experiencing run on or dieseling, i dunno if the  worn throttle shaft is causing it too. 

So, with the siamesed cast-iron stock intake/exhaust manifold, that should not be a problem with icing.
Looking at the table Jed did post of the 3 needles, they are almost identical, except for one would be a bit richer in higher rpms and the other leaner. But that should only affect emissions at higher rpms, and performance very little.

I am back to suspecting the throttle shaft or the intake snorkel.

Tony asked about whether the shaft holes in the carb body might be worn as well as the shaft. From my reading, I'd say yes, probably. I have read that installing bushing is part of the solution, but that would require machining and line-boring to make sure the new holes are aligned and the shaft does not bind.  Translation: a machine shop is needed (for many of us).

Tony: if you can rattle the shaft, feeling slop between the holes and the shaft, then it is significantly worn. It does not take much to mess up performance. An old HS4 I have is slightly wobbly and was giving me problems. I'd suggest rebuilt one from our host.

Before you plunk down $$ for a new carb, try removing the snorkel and putting the stock air cleaner back on.When you remove the snorkel, make sure it was not blocking any of the 2 upper holes shown by the gasket #12 in the attached image. These provide internal breathing for the carb and it won't work properly if they are blocked.

The next issue is that the flow of air into the carb mouth must be very free-flowing without turbulence. Your snorkel from the K&N filter up toward the carb looks like it should be OK, and should provide smooth flow, but when it gets to the carb, there appears to be a dead-end pocket where the crankcase vent hose is attached, and then more internal space beyond that. That is a huge cavity that would produce eddies bad air currents that would really mess up the air flow. From my reading, there needs to be a very smooth, gentle elbow bend from the snorkel to the carb mouth, and even a smooth elbow here can cause eddies and problems.  The length of the tube leading to the carb mouth can also mess up the flow, especially at higher rpm. In other words, even though you put a lot of work into is, and it looks sharp (I like how it looks) it may be the cause of your lack of power a higher rpms. My engine has a cone filter right on the carb, and on full acceleration it allows a lot of induction noise (engine roar). I have thought about making a snorkel like yours, but haven't done anything about it because I don't want to compromise the power I have. You may see them on turbo cars etc. but the airflow problem doesn't matter on a turbo because it is pressurizing the intake system and the impeller cancels out any turbulence problems.

Yeah, the posting pictures box is having problems too - Jeg has problems and sent a couple of images to me to post, but I couldn't get them to post either.

Im having a hard time posting pictures, i post link to my photobucket and that link should be placed in between this ---> IMG right?but as soon as i do that, the p on the http got replaced by a smiley icon, is there a way to post pic correctly? How


and on the chart that you posted, mine is 99H, 1978-1983 and i needed to use ADE needle,, mine is AAC, so i got the wrong one.
i need to get the ADE needle

Gosh, you believe it's the earlier style manifold for minis.  Could it be that it's simply the ordinary standard cast manifold?  It could be important to know what you've got, as it's been explained to you so, so many times before.

Seriously, a certain amount of self-help is also beneficial.  You spend so much time on here, and have spent ages arguing and jerking people around, that even though people were helping you, you haven't managed to learn a darned thing. 

Pitiful, really.


For example, Dan asked for pictures and information about that sewer pipe you've balanced onto your carb of unknown type - you momentarily posted a link to your 'Coolsterr' photobucket page, then deleted that link.  When I checked the page, there was only a copied picture of someones mini. 

So, who's mini is this?  I can see that it's got a roll cage, so it must be fast.

You also asked about the carb needle, bíg surprise that it's mentioned in your pirate-copy downloaded .pdf Haynes manual.  I did plot the annular areas of these 3 needles for you though. 

You then suggest that you've got the wrong needle - why do you think this?  The AAC that you're using is and has been used successfully by the factory on engines just like yours.

My intake and exhaust manifolds are conjoined like a siamese twin. I believe these were the earlier style of manifolds for minis.
 The small hose attached to the intake pipe is a breather hose coming from the engine.

Still waiting...

wires has been replaced,,ill post pics...
that chart is very informative, i think I'm using the wrong needle code

 Ok, got these posted.  But I'm sure Tony's seen this before, it's in his Haynes...

They're still mismatched...

Tony: A great list of data! Now we're talking!

You do not mention what you have for a manifold. Are you using the stock cast iron one - intake and exhaust? If you have replaced it with an aluminum intake manifold and a separate exhaust manifold or header, you should connect the heater hose through the intake manifold. The old cast iron ones use a bit of heat from the exhaust to keep the intake warm enough to prevent icing. If you live in a humid area (hot or cold weather), the temperature inside the intake can get very cold, water condenses from the air and can freeze onto the inside of the intake manifold, gradually choking the engine. You need to provide a bit of heat to prevent this. The heater hose returning from the heater to the engine can do this.

You also need to explain the system you added from the K&N to the carb intake. In the pictures, I can see the chrome pipe, but it seems to go past the carb mouth toward the brake master cylinder where there seems to be a hose attached and some clamps and other bits. I don't know what all that does, but it looks like it would cause a lot of turbulence in the airflow coming into the carb, making the carb not function properly.

Sigh...

//sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/spares/id/1731/ 

Thats one thing im confused about, it was running like a champ this morning along the lake with a passenger(125lbs) , at a cruising speed of 45-50mph , runs smooth as silk.  I will be going out to downtown, i will see if the performance will change.   
Question: which one wears out first? The throttle shaft or the hole where it sits?,  i ask this because if i buy a new shaft and only to find out that the hole got bigger, i may end replacing the entire carb.
i dunno why that throttle shaft does not have an oil seal to prevent air leak (??) 

If you believe your carb is an HS4, it probably will be.  Not to criticise, but you really should know this by now...

Seems to be running well enough to take it for a cruise along the lake and out for dinner, so your troubles can't be super dramatic.

Take the chrome pipe off the carb and re-install the standard air filter using a standard gasket for the carb elbow. 

There are 4 reasons I can think of right off the top of my head: Having read the articles pages, particularly KC's air filter test article.

http/www.minimania.com/Air_filtration___K_N_Air_cleaner_test__1288 

Here's a little bit of that article:
"That famous phrase 'all that glitters isn't gold' is perfectly illustrated here. Something that looks and sounds like it should produce optimum results doesn't. Without a doubt, the optimum set-up on a small-bore engine is the standard plastic filter case with half-a-dozen three-quarter-inch holes drilled in it and using a K&N element."

I've attached a needle chart for the usual standard needles.

Edit - well, the website is really running poorly these days, requires frequent refreshing and is slower than pond water.  Can't upload the images -

The AAC that you've got should be fine, alternatively ADE or ABX are listed in the HAYNES MANUAL - of course, you've already seen them, as you've got a copy.

The letters on the needle says AAC (??) there are no numbers tho.

1)my carb i believe is HS4.
2)998cc  A+ series engine 13k miles on the odo. ( if i ever want to sell this car, i will drive backwards so that the total mileage will decrease and will look new,,,anyway)
3) the timing is set i believe is at # 10
4) it set at 900sh rmp
5) valve clearance, im using the factory settings which is 0.012
6) spark plug gap is a 0.25  ( purist's gap) 
7) im using 5w-30 motor oil for dashpot
8) spring inside the carb is stock, still virgin, never been stretched.
9)i dropped the cylindrical thing inside the carb, no resistance/ok , i hear a good clank.
10)  throttle shaft movement about 60% ( i can tell , its a little worn out)
11) sir jeg, sir dan,  the TDM thing is too technical, how do i determine it, pls walk me through.
12) gas 87 unleaded
13) im using 3.0 amps flamethrower coil and  pertronix dizzy  6months in use.
14) newly installed high performace spark plug wires/ color red ( the    Wrapper says, "Congratulations on having purchased the finest quality ignition wire set available", ,  i felt good , reading it.
15) im using cone KN filter.  Attached to a 3 inch chrome pipping. Makes intake air cool.
16)  im using glass fuel filter, but soon will go to Goulan performance fuel filter.
17)  im using castrol 20/50 oil
18) as of now, i did not mix any lucas oil stabilizer or seafoam on my oil or gas. ( your wish is my command)
19) new valve cover gasket/ cork
20) still using stock 45 amps alternator
21) stock radiator and pipes,tubes and cap
22) this car comes with a breather canister, all coraned up, tubes has no leaks, t-connector is new. /( more like an F to me,not T)
23) stock  and leaking slave valve ( leaks about 10gtt/ day) not bad
24)stock manual fuel pump ( i knaw, anytime it might stall me in the middle of the road, any advice on a good elec fuel pump?)
25) engine bolts and nuts retorque'd a year ago
26) oil has no coolant and  coolant has no oil. I did the centrifuge test., and it passed with flying rainbow colors.
27)  im planning to do a dyno test but, i dont think my mini is ready yet
28) float is not stuck, floating freely./ overflow tube, no gas smell, means no leak. Valve stopper is working as its supposed to.
29) KN filter has been sprayed with KN oil, 2 coats
30) lean and rich nut has a spring in it, i checked.
31) vacuum advance is working as welll, i checked.
32) im using NGK BPR6ES  stock # 7131 spark plug

.::: that's all for now, ill add more as i go along... Thanks

we're all gonna go nuts in here in the end... over and out.

Alex, Dimitris and anyone else:
I started this thread as a fresh, reasonable, rational approach to try to sort out a valid problem on a valid Mini.

Alex, it is YOU who is acting like a troll dredging up history not related to the issue, baiting TB and calling him names. TB does have a Mini and he's done some pretty decent work to it, according to the videos Jeg reposted. So get over it.  And FYI, your "can of custard" routine means about as much of some of us as a "can of Map-O-Spread" probably would to you. Personally, I've never seen a can of custard, but grew up on Map-O-Spread.

Please remove your derogatory remarks from my thread, but please do post something productive.

Dimitris: Please remove your spice girls reference. It has nothing to do with the topic.

Wait guys, pls bear with me, im at dentist right now(and yes i still have my real set of teeth), anyway im here for prophylaxis, then as soon as im done, me and wifey will drive my mini along the lake and mountains, and late  eat at the japanese restaurant, im burnt out at work 20 days working straight, gosh!!i need a break.  Will take pics as soon as i get back from this road trip.