So it does appear that this is what has been done already......Looks like I'm going with the two needle bearings at this point. I think???????????

I should have elaborated..
`Big wheel' Australian Mokes all have 13" wheels and 80 profile M&S type tyres, which won't clear the stock trailing arm at the pivot. So, Australia cast these arms ~4" longer.
These arms won't fit a Mini.

As for fitting an outer needle bearing to a Mini arm, IMO it would be easy to do once you set the arm up in a BIG lathe (or clamp it vertical and clock it up in a mill) and bore it out to suit.

Does the Moke use the same rear swing arm? This would make sense then.... Big wheel? How big is big? So would two needle bearings be ok in your opinion?

Big wheel Mokes have a needle bearing at each end.

1959 radius arms had a brass bush each end, 1960 - 99 radius arms had a brass bush at the outer end, needle rollers at the inner.

I've never hear of a radius arm with a bearing at each end.

So I completed the drivers side rear swing arm (Right hand drive). I have moved onto the other side and have everything dismantled.

DILEMMA......The swing arm on the dfivers side had a bearing and the brass bushing. The side I just removed had 2 bearings, one on each end. So the PO has drilled and reamed the end that should be .940" to accomodate the brass bushing diameter to 1.060" to accept the bearing. So I have no choice to put in two bearings, one at each end. OR??

1st option: I could make another piece to push in so I could use the brass bushing, this piece would be .060 wall thickness. Not feeling to comfortable about that. 2nd option: Has anyone/is it possible to pull out the insert that is pressed? into the cast Iron swing arm. 3rd option: Buy a new swing arm....Anyone have one, I need the left hand side one. 4th Option: Has anyone heard of this, using two bearings instead of the brass bushing. 

Maybe someone out there has another option...........What to do, what to do????????

Image Gallery

So I received parts back from the powder coater. I sent out the swing arm and the brake backplate. The rest I painted wih VHT spray paint and then baked. The rebuild of the swing arm went pretty good. I ended up making a bushing so I could place it in the opposite end of the brass bushing. The lathe made bushing allowed me to ream the brass bushing to 13/16, THANKS Mty Mous for the insight.

l'll start putting things back together tomorrow. Any input for ideas or concerns when puttiing all back together???

Don't know it you participated when I installed the C-AJJ4009 rear anti-sway bar on my mini.  Having driven with it for some time now, I'll tell, you, I like it a lot.  Stiffened up the ride, reduced body roll etc., cornering feels more precise.  Do a search on the message threads to sometime in the Spring 2014 -

Edit:  Try these threads:

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/110781/1/1/Rear_bump_stop_photo  (Love N.J.'s reaction at the end of the thread)

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/113451/1/1/Rear_anti-roll_bar_question  (Very interesting input from pixieracing re. Bellville washers on rear strut)

//www.minimania.com/msgThread/115611/1/1/Rear_sway_bar_advice_please

Spitz:     When I received the car it had cones on the rear for suspension. The car actually handled very well as far as I was concerned. Be it this is my first classic mini I have owned and have nothing else to compare it too. I did end up changing out the front and rear to Hi-Los with red springs, the rear ended up getting very loose. I wish I had the suttleness/softness of the springs but with the rigidity of cones while cornering...... Is this even possible? rear sway bar?

I always had sedan set up with zero toe at rear since I would be doing more highway driving, standard toe-out up front.

Just me, but no handling issues on autocross course (better with toe-out) or thousands of miles on the highway.

Jeg... I was responding to the OP  

Unfortunately, I haven't got detailed measurements for radius arms, but seems to me that if you've both arms off the car, you could probably lay them over each other and see if one is bent.  Nice thing about the shims is that if one doesn't work, lust loosen the bracket (the 2 horizontal 5/16UNF can be a bit hard to get a socket on, but possible), pry it away from the subby and fit another.  Measure, lather-rinse-repeat.

Thanks for the quick responses...

MtyMous:  All bearings have been removed from the swing arms. I used a blind bearing puller that I rent from Autozone for FREE. This allowed me to remove the bearing/brass bushing and the wheel bearings. In addition, I was also able to remove the plastic liner from the swing arm (already have the re-build kits and thought the plastic sleeve was just for protection of the shaft, thank goodnees I did not throw it out) . Thanks for the insight of the reaming, this I would not have known. I did not see that in the manual either. I have a full supply of reamers at work so this should not be a problem. Swing arm, drum backing plate dropped off at powdercoater (//www.eastcoastpowdercoating.com/), other bracketry being rattle can painted with VHT and baked....    Thanks for the information    

Jeg:   So I have seen ways to check the subframe for abnormalities (Manual measurments, got another way?), but how to check the swing arm? It appears good. My goal is to use shims this year and tackle the whole subframe next year, (still wanna drive it) but repair here and there untill frame off resto...   It does appaear that the radius arm support bracket might have been elongated at one point, looks as though some one milled out the slots a wee bit. 12" wheels is what I am sporting, I'm thinking 1 shim for the drivers side and two for the passenger side should bring me in real close.  Again.......................................

Thanks for the information    

I will post pictures when things come back from the powder coater and I'm ready to re-install the one side

Not at all, I like the fixed toe angle that shimming provides.  It allows me to tinker ad libitum without messing it up.  As long as you've got adjustable camber, one can shim and forget.  Not that I've tried the MS73's, but when I considered purchasing them, I learned that many folks, KC included, were moving away from them in favor of using shims.  Partially because of the fiddly-ness of the toothed slide for adjusting toe. 

My front toe figure needs attention, though, and if it wasn't my anniversary this weekend - well, today... - I'd be taking care of that.

Wow....your cornering must have been horrible.

//www.minimania.com/part/MS73/Adjustable-Rear-Camber--Toe-Brackets--Mini--Mini-Cooper

Might be a good idea to check if your radius arm or subframe is bent before you go adjusting them.

But, yes, I use them - CK-17, wouldn't be without them.  I used them to adjust my rear toe to very close to 'neutral' just a tiny (1/16") [0.063"] amount of toe-in rather than the normally prescribed 1/8" (0.125"); think I've got 2 shims on the RH side.  Just remember that you may need to elongate the radius arm support bracket to subframe mounting holes (underside of the bracket) in order to fit multiple shims between the bracket and subframe. 

I'll assume that your '84 Mayfair has 12" wheels, so when you use the CK17's, one shim adds around 0.032" (1/31") toe out to your original measurement or condition.

Ex. if the tracking is measured at 0.040" (1/25") toe in, adding a shim to the offending side will reduce it to about 0.012" (1/83")

The general consensus is that you don't want toe out in the rear for a street car, so, in the interest of safety, maintain some toe in.

I'm also using the MS70 adjustable rear camber brackets.

In fact, a Gunson Trakrite arrived yesterday, and I had an oportunity to roll the car onto it today just for a quick peek and bit o'fun.  As I suspected, I've got a bit too much toe out on the front, around 1° on each side and my rear tracking is almost perfect to my needs.  I'll just adjust it down to as close to 0° 7'30" toe out on each side.

If you're completely rebuilding the rear swingarms, meaning you're replacing the spindle and associated bearing/bushing, then you'll need to somehow get the bearing and bushing out. I just did this with a slide hammer bearing puller from Harbor Freight. I've posted a link below. Also, once you press in the new brass bushing, you'll have to ream it to size. The corect size is 13/16". And the reamer should be at least 10" long to use the bearing side as a guide so that you ream it true with the bearing. I've posted a link to the MK-1 forum's how-to which is somewhat similar to how I did it. If your car has metal tubes inside of the swingarm, KEEP THEM. If it doesn't, then replace it with a plastic tube from a kit.  

Only other consideration I would make is considering a good thick enamel paint or powder coating when finished. I smoothed mine and then painted with thick epoxy paint. Shouldn't have any rust problems for years and years.

//www.harborfreight.com/blind-hole-bearing-puller-95987.html

How to remove bearings and ream bushing

I am rebuilding my rear swing arms, wheel bearings and just cleaning a lot up in the rear. I had my alignment done a few months ago and the rear was way out. Nearly twice toe in what it should be on the drivers side (R) and nearly 4x greater on the passenger side toe in. I'm chewing up my tires on the rear. The car is a 84' Mayfair & the left side rear does appear to have a little body damage from a PO. I've seen that there are shims that can be used to help alleviate the extreme toe in that I have. Has anyone used these shims and how did you like them? Also, about me re-building my rear swing arms, anyone have any advice of things that I may not be thinking of. Thanks in advance

A little early but

Happy Thanksgiving all.....