Going with this option will necessitate a slightly longer cable... Not sure how much shorter the cable could get without having dramatic bends or kinks. If you want it shorter, then you'll have to have a custom cable made with hard elbows. Not a problem for someone willing to spend more than $5 on a cable.

minimans i guess its an issue on the Quality of the cable i have, i bought it 6 bucks from ebay, im pretty sure it's from the mainland china, i shouldnt hve bought that el cheapo cable, im to blame. the remedy i believe i to use a shortest possible teflon lead cable. and dont oil it. 

Sorry but I wasn't condeming anybody! Just my personal observation. And I'm not stuck in the classic mini world either! I restore and repair all types of classic cars and do on occasion have to resort to re-engineering stuff when spares are not available but when stock parts are easily obtainable why bother? If the pedal and Carb parts are in good condition you would not be having issues with the cable fraying or sticking?

that is exactly what i want to incorporate in the SU carb, i want to make the cable from the pedal to the carb shorter, because longer cable means more friction and more friction means more resistance. 

Robster, they aren't necessarily from a bicycle. They are examples of universal cable terminations used in multiple industries.

Minimans, I'm not re-engineering anything. And you may be satisfied with the status quo, but not all of us are. We all know that these cables fray. I've replaced 2 in the time i've owned my mini because of this. Taking the carb off and putting it back on and every time it gets a little crappier. If you venture outside the world of classic mini repair, you'll see that this is a common design practice in modern configurations. Look at how this LSx motor's throttle cable is fitted. Seems really practical, right? Because it is! And it's very easy to remove for maintenance/cleaning and won't result in a frayed cable. Plus it lends itself to using a better/more flexible cable like a 7x7 cable. The same concept is used in the motorcycle world on twist throttles and clutch cables.

Some don't mind doing things the old way. But those that want to improve on the old way shouldn't be condemned. This is the exact sort of reason that I don't post many of my new ideas on this particular forum.

All this phaffling about with bike cables and modified attachments? Why? the original designs worked for 50 odd years so why not just fix whats broke worn out and carry on? All the Std parts are available from the various suppliers for not much money, I guess it's because I do this stuff for a living and don't need the hassles of re-engineering stuff that works just fine that I dont bodge and make do?

sir mighty.. those are bicycle cables, the top one might work but the bottom one , you need a good luck to make it stay in place, hmm but i will try it, i already fix the wall where the throttle pedal was bolted in, mal is right there is a little crack and it wobbles sideways , i fixed it but only about 40% improvement. i will try that bike cable thing later.. 

Well I'l spill the beans a little on the idea I had. I 'm trying to find a way to incorporate these terminations onro my throttle cable. I got really tired of my cale fraying before, so I would dump solder into it to keep i together, but that doesn't always last. So I want to find a way to use one of these and find an associated coupling for the throttle body.We'll see how that works out.

Jeg that is the part i was referring to in my post, simple and useful too.

Alex, I found this one which is actually closer to the one I've got -

//www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=015.830

and the associated nut:

//www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=015.831

I set mine up with a washer and nut on each side of the abuttment plate slot; makes adjusting the cable really smooth and simple.

Oooh I rather like that cable adjuster.

Would take the grief out of setting up idle speed vs throttle cable slackness.

I'm using this type (Cable Adjuster ) on my HIF abuttment bracket and using the C-AHT85 cable.  I say 'this type' as mine is from a Triumph motorcycle and has 5/16" nuts.

My old SSB10126 HIF cable started getting frayed from frequent removal of the carb and I had several new 'normal' cables on the shelf, so until I get around to rebuilding the twins, I've got spares.  Too many spares, in fact, need to start cleaning out.

Funny enough, I had the presence of mind to solder the ends of the C-AHT85's but not the HIF cables.  Really need to do those cables also, as I do like the plastic end clip's short radiused inner bore.

You could also use one of those adjustable brake cable ferrules as used on bicycles with a couple of washers to hold it in the slotted hole.

I think you can buy what Alex is talking about maybe M/C shop. I have several sets at the shop. chrome and hex stock with hardware. May have come with twin cable linkage, I find it hard enough to get one cable happy. I have come to like the HIF cables. They seem to stay out of trouble work well and easy. I don't know if the yellow cables are around any longer. Now those were the deal. I wish I had a case of them. I remember my 850 when first getting it on the road. I'd adjust the idle and close the bonnet and it would pick up 300 revs. Of course I had the cable to tight which was nothing to it getting on the exhaust and melting the core locking things up. I also cranked the engine with no ground strap watching the heater valve cable turn red. I was 18 and my other car was a Model A Ford. Steve (CTR)

I can't remember off the top of my head if it's 1/4" or 5/16 bolt, but a short bolt and nyloc nut fits beautifully in the HIF bracket.  With a small hole drilled through and a larger one at the top to receive the end of the HS cable, it's actually a more elegant solution in some respects than the real HIF cable.  No brittle plastic and way cheaper, as well as being easier to work with. 

Understood Alex i don't mind working around things when you have to on my own cars but not other peoples, it's one thing getting into an accident with your own vehicle but another if a cars cable you worked on stuck and caused an accident i just like to do things the way they were when they left the factory in most cases.  I just replaced a carb bracket and cables on a HIF Mini that were sticking due to the PO had rigged it to work with a regular HS cable and bracket and the angles were all wrong.

I'm using that cable with HIF carbs on two cars.

With a bit of imagination the clip can be replaced with a bolt.

I have twin carbs and my cable (bicycle) was sticking because it had a 'custom' bracket on the carb side.  I replaced it with the correct part from MiniMania and it now works great!

The other problem with the Mini's accelerator cables is when the accelerator pedal gets slightly misaligned it wears a groove where it goes through the body, at this point you can install a dozen cables and they will all stick or become erratic eventually. The cure is to drill out the hole in the body the next size up and buy a decent cable (i like the bicycle ones that are teflon lined) and i also make them around 2 inches longer for a smoother routing. Also make sure the pedal is aligned with the hole before installing the new cable. Obviously this works for HS carbs not HIF ones due to the clip on the end.

Wow, what a most excellant use of the word parsimonious !

When I looked at the on-line dictionary it said "see robster/velocity" and there was a picture of some shirtless dude on a scooter.