Looking at the Haynes again, it looks like you're both right - Spitz is correct for RN9YC or RN12YC and Dan for 'other plug types, NGK/Bosch or non-projected nose etc...  Of course, I'll not lead a horse to water and suggest which plugs to buy, but many simply install their properly purchased NGK's right out of the box.  Assuming the correct heat range is purchased. 

If it were my mini, I'd probably split the difference in order to get it running and worry about the little things later...

Can't see how they'd alter the idle speed or timing, but OK, it's special...


All this said, it begs the question - which spark plugs were bought and installed? 

My Haynes states .6mm(.024").  Older workshop manual .25"
This is for Champion plug (n9y)

Where did you get the idea of .025 inch for  spark plug gap?

Haynes says 0.8mm which equals 0.0315 inch. The usual range for standard plugs is 0.032 to 0.036 inch

Try 0.032 inch.

New plugs and wires (i understood you just bought wires but ?) do not alter timing. As i have said you need to make sure that everything is set correctly before you start adjusting the carb. A couple of ways the timing would change is a worn chain or the point gap is closing up but i believe you have a petronix now (its hard to keep track though). If the rest of your car has newer parts on it Joe Curto may build you a carb body only with a new shaft and bushings already installed which may save you some money.

This thread is about tuning your car. If you want to talk about anything else, start another thread. If you don't you only confuse yourself and others.

Basic manners. if you want our help, please cooperate.

The distributor has a MECHANICAL advance that is supposed to advance the timing as rpms increase. The specification says to set the timing at 1000 rpm with the vacuum advance disconnected, so at that engine speed the timing advanced the specified number of degrees. degrees. Then you should reset the idle speed to 800 - 900 rpm and then hook up the vacuum advance. The vacuum advance then moves the timing farther up the scale, maybe off the end.

When you open the throttle, the vacuum advance relaxes, letting the timing return to the specified number of degrees, but at the same time the mechanical advance takes over, advancing the timing in relation to the speed the engine is turning. So at some point, the timing mark disappears off the scale. The scale only shows from 0 to about 12 degrees, but total mechanical advance  at 4000 to 5000 rpm should be somewhere around 22 degrees - yes, way off the scale.

---edited----  

Sir mal, i did the timing this aftenoon and i tried to rev it, then the white dot advances to waaay over past the teeth, so i dont know really what number it got on advance. 

update:   So i installed new sparkplugs (gapped to 25k's) and sparkplug wires, this afternoon, i notice right away that the rpm went up,, it idle at 1200, i adjust the idle screw to 1000 rpm then i checked the ign timing, the timing went up to 15 degrees, so i adjusted it back to 10degress.(factory)  Runs more powerful now.(feels like 1275)
but I still need to attend to that worn throt $haft i know.

The HS4 has bushings in the body. Joe Curto in NY sells oversize shafts for the HS2's and maybe has some for HS4's, if you use these you do not need to replace the bushings you just ream out the bushings to the new shaft size which is a lot cheaper. You need to check the wear with the return spring disconnected and yes a worn shaft or bushings will cause a high idle. Before you jump into the carb everything else has to be in order tune up wise. What is the maximum advance you are getting tb ?

Yes sir Dan, there is a significant rattle in the throttle shaft, i temporarily put thick grease around the shaft to seal it and prevent sucking ait from the outside and making it leaner.
On the other note , i am also experiencing run on or dieseling, i dunno if the  worn throttle shaft is causing it too. 

So, with the siamesed cast-iron stock intake/exhaust manifold, that should not be a problem with icing.
Looking at the table Jed did post of the 3 needles, they are almost identical, except for one would be a bit richer in higher rpms and the other leaner. But that should only affect emissions at higher rpms, and performance very little.

I am back to suspecting the throttle shaft or the intake snorkel.

Tony asked about whether the shaft holes in the carb body might be worn as well as the shaft. From my reading, I'd say yes, probably. I have read that installing bushing is part of the solution, but that would require machining and line-boring to make sure the new holes are aligned and the shaft does not bind.  Translation: a machine shop is needed (for many of us).

Tony: if you can rattle the shaft, feeling slop between the holes and the shaft, then it is significantly worn. It does not take much to mess up performance. An old HS4 I have is slightly wobbly and was giving me problems. I'd suggest rebuilt one from our host.

Before you plunk down $$ for a new carb, try removing the snorkel and putting the stock air cleaner back on.When you remove the snorkel, make sure it was not blocking any of the 2 upper holes shown by the gasket #12 in the attached image. These provide internal breathing for the carb and it won't work properly if they are blocked.

The next issue is that the flow of air into the carb mouth must be very free-flowing without turbulence. Your snorkel from the K&N filter up toward the carb looks like it should be OK, and should provide smooth flow, but when it gets to the carb, there appears to be a dead-end pocket where the crankcase vent hose is attached, and then more internal space beyond that. That is a huge cavity that would produce eddies bad air currents that would really mess up the air flow. From my reading, there needs to be a very smooth, gentle elbow bend from the snorkel to the carb mouth, and even a smooth elbow here can cause eddies and problems.  The length of the tube leading to the carb mouth can also mess up the flow, especially at higher rpm. In other words, even though you put a lot of work into is, and it looks sharp (I like how it looks) it may be the cause of your lack of power a higher rpms. My engine has a cone filter right on the carb, and on full acceleration it allows a lot of induction noise (engine roar). I have thought about making a snorkel like yours, but haven't done anything about it because I don't want to compromise the power I have. You may see them on turbo cars etc. but the airflow problem doesn't matter on a turbo because it is pressurizing the intake system and the impeller cancels out any turbulence problems.

Yeah, the posting pictures box is having problems too - Jeg has problems and sent a couple of images to me to post, but I couldn't get them to post either.

Im having a hard time posting pictures, i post link to my photobucket and that link should be placed in between this ---> IMG right?but as soon as i do that, the p on the http got replaced by a smiley icon, is there a way to post pic correctly? How


and on the chart that you posted, mine is 99H, 1978-1983 and i needed to use ADE needle,, mine is AAC, so i got the wrong one.
i need to get the ADE needle

Gosh, you believe it's the earlier style manifold for minis.  Could it be that it's simply the ordinary standard cast manifold?  It could be important to know what you've got, as it's been explained to you so, so many times before.

Seriously, a certain amount of self-help is also beneficial.  You spend so much time on here, and have spent ages arguing and jerking people around, that even though people were helping you, you haven't managed to learn a darned thing. 

Pitiful, really.


For example, Dan asked for pictures and information about that sewer pipe you've balanced onto your carb of unknown type - you momentarily posted a link to your 'Coolsterr' photobucket page, then deleted that link.  When I checked the page, there was only a copied picture of someones mini. 

So, who's mini is this?  I can see that it's got a roll cage, so it must be fast.

You also asked about the carb needle, bíg surprise that it's mentioned in your pirate-copy downloaded .pdf Haynes manual.  I did plot the annular areas of these 3 needles for you though. 

You then suggest that you've got the wrong needle - why do you think this?  The AAC that you're using is and has been used successfully by the factory on engines just like yours.

My intake and exhaust manifolds are conjoined like a siamese twin. I believe these were the earlier style of manifolds for minis.
 The small hose attached to the intake pipe is a breather hose coming from the engine.

Still waiting...

wires has been replaced,,ill post pics...
that chart is very informative, i think I'm using the wrong needle code

 Ok, got these posted.  But I'm sure Tony's seen this before, it's in his Haynes...