They're still mismatched...

Tony: A great list of data! Now we're talking!

You do not mention what you have for a manifold. Are you using the stock cast iron one - intake and exhaust? If you have replaced it with an aluminum intake manifold and a separate exhaust manifold or header, you should connect the heater hose through the intake manifold. The old cast iron ones use a bit of heat from the exhaust to keep the intake warm enough to prevent icing. If you live in a humid area (hot or cold weather), the temperature inside the intake can get very cold, water condenses from the air and can freeze onto the inside of the intake manifold, gradually choking the engine. You need to provide a bit of heat to prevent this. The heater hose returning from the heater to the engine can do this.

You also need to explain the system you added from the K&N to the carb intake. In the pictures, I can see the chrome pipe, but it seems to go past the carb mouth toward the brake master cylinder where there seems to be a hose attached and some clamps and other bits. I don't know what all that does, but it looks like it would cause a lot of turbulence in the airflow coming into the carb, making the carb not function properly.

Sigh...

//sucarb.co.uk/carbspec/carburettor/spares/id/1731/ 

Thats one thing im confused about, it was running like a champ this morning along the lake with a passenger(125lbs) , at a cruising speed of 45-50mph , runs smooth as silk.  I will be going out to downtown, i will see if the performance will change.   
Question: which one wears out first? The throttle shaft or the hole where it sits?,  i ask this because if i buy a new shaft and only to find out that the hole got bigger, i may end replacing the entire carb.
i dunno why that throttle shaft does not have an oil seal to prevent air leak (??) 

If you believe your carb is an HS4, it probably will be.  Not to criticise, but you really should know this by now...

Seems to be running well enough to take it for a cruise along the lake and out for dinner, so your troubles can't be super dramatic.

Take the chrome pipe off the carb and re-install the standard air filter using a standard gasket for the carb elbow. 

There are 4 reasons I can think of right off the top of my head: Having read the articles pages, particularly KC's air filter test article.

http/www.minimania.com/Air_filtration___K_N_Air_cleaner_test__1288 

Here's a little bit of that article:
"That famous phrase 'all that glitters isn't gold' is perfectly illustrated here. Something that looks and sounds like it should produce optimum results doesn't. Without a doubt, the optimum set-up on a small-bore engine is the standard plastic filter case with half-a-dozen three-quarter-inch holes drilled in it and using a K&N element."

I've attached a needle chart for the usual standard needles.

Edit - well, the website is really running poorly these days, requires frequent refreshing and is slower than pond water.  Can't upload the images -

The AAC that you've got should be fine, alternatively ADE or ABX are listed in the HAYNES MANUAL - of course, you've already seen them, as you've got a copy.

The letters on the needle says AAC (??) there are no numbers tho.

1)my carb i believe is HS4.
2)998cc  A+ series engine 13k miles on the odo. ( if i ever want to sell this car, i will drive backwards so that the total mileage will decrease and will look new,,,anyway)
3) the timing is set i believe is at # 10
4) it set at 900sh rmp
5) valve clearance, im using the factory settings which is 0.012
6) spark plug gap is a 0.25  ( purist's gap) 
7) im using 5w-30 motor oil for dashpot
8) spring inside the carb is stock, still virgin, never been stretched.
9)i dropped the cylindrical thing inside the carb, no resistance/ok , i hear a good clank.
10)  throttle shaft movement about 60% ( i can tell , its a little worn out)
11) sir jeg, sir dan,  the TDM thing is too technical, how do i determine it, pls walk me through.
12) gas 87 unleaded
13) im using 3.0 amps flamethrower coil and  pertronix dizzy  6months in use.
14) newly installed high performace spark plug wires/ color red ( the    Wrapper says, "Congratulations on having purchased the finest quality ignition wire set available", ,  i felt good , reading it.
15) im using cone KN filter.  Attached to a 3 inch chrome pipping. Makes intake air cool.
16)  im using glass fuel filter, but soon will go to Goulan performance fuel filter.
17)  im using castrol 20/50 oil
18) as of now, i did not mix any lucas oil stabilizer or seafoam on my oil or gas. ( your wish is my command)
19) new valve cover gasket/ cork
20) still using stock 45 amps alternator
21) stock radiator and pipes,tubes and cap
22) this car comes with a breather canister, all coraned up, tubes has no leaks, t-connector is new. /( more like an F to me,not T)
23) stock  and leaking slave valve ( leaks about 10gtt/ day) not bad
24)stock manual fuel pump ( i knaw, anytime it might stall me in the middle of the road, any advice on a good elec fuel pump?)
25) engine bolts and nuts retorque'd a year ago
26) oil has no coolant and  coolant has no oil. I did the centrifuge test., and it passed with flying rainbow colors.
27)  im planning to do a dyno test but, i dont think my mini is ready yet
28) float is not stuck, floating freely./ overflow tube, no gas smell, means no leak. Valve stopper is working as its supposed to.
29) KN filter has been sprayed with KN oil, 2 coats
30) lean and rich nut has a spring in it, i checked.
31) vacuum advance is working as welll, i checked.
32) im using NGK BPR6ES  stock # 7131 spark plug

.::: that's all for now, ill add more as i go along... Thanks

we're all gonna go nuts in here in the end... over and out.

Alex, Dimitris and anyone else:
I started this thread as a fresh, reasonable, rational approach to try to sort out a valid problem on a valid Mini.

Alex, it is YOU who is acting like a troll dredging up history not related to the issue, baiting TB and calling him names. TB does have a Mini and he's done some pretty decent work to it, according to the videos Jeg reposted. So get over it.  And FYI, your "can of custard" routine means about as much of some of us as a "can of Map-O-Spread" probably would to you. Personally, I've never seen a can of custard, but grew up on Map-O-Spread.

Please remove your derogatory remarks from my thread, but please do post something productive.

Dimitris: Please remove your spice girls reference. It has nothing to do with the topic.

Wait guys, pls bear with me, im at dentist right now(and yes i still have my real set of teeth), anyway im here for prophylaxis, then as soon as im done, me and wifey will drive my mini along the lake and mountains, and late  eat at the japanese restaurant, im burnt out at work 20 days working straight, gosh!!i need a break.  Will take pics as soon as i get back from this road trip.

Tony,

Remove the needle from your carb (previously requested) and tell us what the markings are on the base of it.  Also, take a picture of your carb and tell us what the ignition timing is set at when the engine is turning 1000 rpm and the vacuum advance is disconnected and the hose plugged. (wouldn't want a vacuum leak).

I never called you 'custard' - Called you many other things, but not 'custard'.

There's nothing wrong with an HS4 carb, particularly the one you've got as it's the cheapest option and if it's sorted, it's well suited to your engine.  All you need to do is 'listen' and 'learn' and 'play nice'.  So, stop whining and get the actual information about your car and some good quality relevant pictures (previously requested) posted, because believe it or not, some of these guys haven't given up on your car.  Maybe have given up on you, but not your car. 

You know where to find a rebuild kit if needed - our Host, Berlen Fuel Systems, 7ent, MSC, etc... 

This is Alex's offer.  Not the modified suits-you-better version that you re-wrote.  I also offered a free HIF38 to you, and I didn't require a photograph either.  All you had to do is E-mail an address to me (could have been your local Burger King's address or any other address) for me to send it to.  But you f*cktarded around and consequently didn't get it.  DB whiner...

I read Alex's reply in Michael Caine's voice for some reason but also tempts me to become a douchebag on this board! lol

You're quite right Lying Troll - I did indeed extend the same offer to you for a Lucas 65D4 distributer, all you had to do was post the photographs and you'd get free things... No photos... No free things...
Technically the offer is still standing...
This is why I'm confident enough to offer the ultrasonically cleaned and fully rebuilt carb of my daily driver - it just isn't going to happen.

Also, had your tiny little Troll brain engaged into a forwards gear instead of into misguided rant, you could have asked if it was a double-up deal... but you didn't as you aren't that clever.
All you had to do was post the photos we have been asking for for 18+months to get the carb AND the dizzy that you so crave....

Post the pics by Sunday evening and you can have both and I'll pay half the shipping.

I am not sure the specific carb has been identified, but they are available:
http/www.minimania.com/part/WZX1177/Throtle-Spindle-Hs4

thanks sir scooperman , sir tinsmith and sir Dan and the rest,,, i was fiddling with the carb this afternoon, and i noticed that the shaft(the cylindrical metal that runs across the carb that holds the butterfly) has a play.,, in the scale of 1-10,10 being the highest, the degree of play maybe 6 .
i dunno if it might be the cause of inconsistent driving performance of my mini or...you guys are the expert, pls help.,, and is the shaft replaceable??

sir Alex, i remember "someone" promised  to send me a free electronic distributor..,,i kept waiting till my hair went gray, guess what, it didn't came...

oooops! 

anyway, sir alex,  a lot of kind hearted members here offered to send me parts for free, it's fine with me if they want me to send pic of my mini, a current newspaper, a custard(which i dunno what a custard means, i know jeg always calls me custard, I'm not affected because i dunno what it meant,l, and what not, the only thing i don't agree to is that they wanted me to send pics of myself standing beside my mini,showing my face, , ya'll guys know that i had a bad experience with it, a certain Air2air, used his computer knowledge to steal the picture of my naked body and face and managed to create a photo wherein i was hugging a can of WD40,,myyyy goodness!!! who in the right mind would do that. gosh!
Now if you want me to post pic of me standing beside my mini, i will do it, without showing my face...deal?? then i get the HIF38 carb of yours.....

The SU is a simple beast.  Clean it.  Check the slop in the shafts.  Check the float needle and seat, set the float height.  Put in an almost-correct needle and jet and it will run.  Centralize the jet, make sure the piston falls down all the way after you lift it up and let it go, and it will run better.  Set up the mixture at hot idle and then driving it up hills will tell you about the rest of the needle...that is, if everything else is OK.   But.  Yes there is always a but.  One thing we assume and hope is that the float level stays there just like we want it to while we drive the car and try to figure out the carb problems.  If the float level should be foofing around while you are trying to drive, the SU will be unhappy and so will you and nothing will be consistent. So pull the pump and test it, or replace it with a known pump, or make up a little gravity-feed gas tank duct-taped to the windshield (done it) just so you can eliminate the pump and test things with consistency.

You guys are wasting your time trying to be nice to an habitual liar and trouble maker.

So...

If Triggerboy posts the much called for photos of the legendary tin of custard to prove he actually HAS a Mini, and isn't just a Troll, then I'll remove the HIF38 from Betty for him.

Assorted photos with good resolution and a sensible size of a tin of custard in the engine bay, sat on the drivers seat with the dashboard in view, and one of him holding the custard in one hand and the latest copy of Hot Rod magazine in the other.

Post them on this forum and he can have the carb off my car...

I'm that confident it won't happen.

Thanks guys, ok ill take some videos of the carb as soon as i get home from work. 

+2

I found this to be a big cause of issues I had.