Actually I did the work myself and was talking to them about a different concern. In the conversation the question of re-torque came up and was recommended. Guess I could just call and ask.

Sounds like you are doing a retorque because you want to maintain some kind or minimania warranty. Since they too are vendors of ARP hardware, I’d recommend you ask your question to whoever told uou that you needed to retorque your head after 1000 miles.

For the record: I do not retorque mine after I’ve gone through my ritualistic install procedure.

In regards to ARP studs, I would recommend reading through their tech page or giving them a call. ARP is one of the few that spec the stud torque with their lube and not dry like most. It would make sense you follow their recommendations, the first section says you shouldn't need to. https://arp-bolts.com/p/FAQ.php

I would consider them dry.  There are a couple of schools of thought on how to re-torque a head.  I'll share mine.

Consult the manual for the tightening sequence.  Do not loosen all the fasteners at one time as you are likely to compromise the seal.  Loosen and tighten them one at a time in sequence.  Start with the first stud.  Loosen it about 1/2 turn, then re-torque to the factory value.  Then move to the second stud and repeat the process... and so on.  If you don't loosen them first you may not even be able to budge the nuts when applying the factory specified torque.  When you are done with the fasteners, re-set your valve clearances.

Reviving an old thread. Mini Mania told me I need to re-torque my head. I used ARP hardware and lube. Its been 1000 miles since I installed. I'm assuming by now the fasteners would be considered dry. Should I torque to the standard 50 ft lbs?

Note: if you use the ARP assembly lube that comes with the studs, follow the torque specs listed on the instructions in the box, as it is LOWER than the factory torque values. You will crush and overcompress your gasket if you torque to factory specs. 

Early head studs with separate washer should be 40lb/ft.
Cooper S (10 studs/nuts + 1 bolt) are 42lb/ft for the nuts and 25 for the 5/16" front bolt.

Later 9 stud engines with pointy top studs and flanged nuts are 50lb/ft.

Rocker stud nuts (4) should all be 25lb/ft.

These are the Leyland specs for standard original studs, not ARP.

 Is it fair to say that the original Head Studs should be torqued to 50lbs and the Rocker studs to 25lbs? What is the Gap for the Rocker arms could anyone tell me?

Thanks for the help!

I did as Spank suggested last time I re-installed my head with a new head gasket (Payen BK 650 composite).  After torquing, I ran the car WITHOUT COOLANT until the head was warm to hot to the touch to allow the laquer in the gasket to flow into the head and block imperfections, then re-torqued while warm, then allowed to cool, THEN added coolant.  This created a much better seal between head and block and eliminated the potential of antifreeze leaks.  I used to torque cold, add coolant to the system, then start the car for the first time, and more than once coolant found a path through the gasket to the outside of the head or into a cylinder, which would not seal up once I ran it up to temperature and re-torqued.  

I'd highly recommend doing it as outlined above.

The 'article' archives on the Mini Mania site contains many, many helpful artilces- simply seach for "ARP" included this significant information:

//www.minimania.com/article/1780/ARP_Bolts___Fasteners

and

//www.minimania.com/article/1539/Proper_ARP_Fastener_Retention

Hello fellas Im new on the Forum, I am currently doing a Head Gasket job on my Mini 998 could anyone tell me what lbs torque I need for the studs? as some of them are loose, these are original Studs not the ARP set.

Thanks for the help! 

Ok, using the ARP Head set, I went 50lbs on the 3/8 socket nuts, and 30lbs on the 4 rocker nuts 5/16 socket.

Stock setting for FACTORY hardware is Stage 1 25lbs, stage 2 50lbs, 4 rocker nuts 24lbs.

 

UPDATE Question. The smaller 5/16 socket sized (4)nuts, are those tightened to the same torque as the 3/8 socketed head bolts?

 

Setting the head torque with the motor at operating temperature has been the rule long before composite head gaskets arrived. If you use the ARP lube then use their torque spec. I always torque mine dry (60ft/lbs) because if I need to do a retorque when I don't have access to ARP lube then I can retorque to the same torque spec in hopes of being consistent.

 Doug

 

No Jeremy... ( hope you're up and about soon btw )edit:  oops...just realised ity's not you in hospital

He didn't show up.  Would have been nice...he'd then be able to clear his name as a thief.

I'd consider myself a dirtbag doing something like that.  Some ppl don't have morals though.  How some seem to think it's fine is beyond me.  I didn't realise I was supposed to bend over and allow penetration instead of being paid for parts supplied..lol...and then move on.

Guess I missed this:

The studs should be installed finger tight. Then, when applying torque to the nut, the stud will stretch only on the vertical axis. An undercut shorter stud will have a rate similar to a longer, standard shank stud. This provides a more even clamping force on the head. Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs (or bolts) are re-torqued after the engine has been run.

//www.arp-bolts.com/pages/faq.shtml

//www.arp-bolts.com/pages/technical_torque_us.shtml

//www.arp-bolts.com/pages/arpultratorque.shtml

Page 37 //issuu.com/arpbolts/docs/catalog2.pdf?mode=embed&layout=http%3A%2F%2Fskin.issuu.com%2Fv%2Flight%2Flayout.xml&showFlipBtn=true

Read this, for your correct ARP answer.

I'm interested in one of your used head studs if it is from a 1275 a plus engine. please email me [email protected] thanks

Ouch I thought you guys worked that out while you were at Mini Meet West Spitz. 

Jeremy

Matt/Spitz-

Does the Bible not say "Turn the other cheek" ??

Maybe so, but if you have a court order for a judgement, l would simply get in my mini pick up, drive to British Columbia,locate a sheriff, go to his property and seize whatever you can, then let him go to court in an effort to get it back-

Not sure how much money is involved here, but don't get mad, GET EVEN-

BTDT-  BIG AL