Found this image online. Guess I just need to drill a small hole on the engine-facing edge of the slam panel. 

It's OK... any chance to touch the Mini, I take!

Thanks, Dan. I don't have the v-shaped depression. Appreciate the pic though! 

ON my mid 1980's Mini, the spring is horizontal up under he slam panel - can't get a photo of it directly. But the tail end is hooked into the small V-shaped depression about 4" to the right (as viewed in my photo) of the  latch. My slam panel and latch appear to be different than yours though - mine has the latch pivot jutting out toward the engine.

Apologies for dragging up an old post. Trying to fix the sliding tension on my bonnet latch. Currently, one end of the spring is correctly hooked into the "V" arm of the latch, with the other end hooked into a hole in the front support panel strut, which I'm guessing is incorrect. 

Does anyone have a good pic of where the spring attaches to the bonnet slam panel? Thanks! 

'64 Cooper S

If you still need to give me a call feel free any time during day on weekdays. 

Just a matter of turning the center plate 180 degrees and re mounting the spring i guess.

I converted to inside pulls on my latches. One pulls left and one to the right. It should work either way.

thanks a bunch that fixed it. I can now open it without have a crowbar to pry......

Looking at Nicks picture it slides to the left looking at the car from the front.

my question is which way does the slide part go, does it slide to the right or left? I have it sliding to the left and it is almost impossible to open the bonnet. I have tried to install it the other way around but it seems like the slider is pointing the wrong direction. into the engine rather than out.  I have looked at the break down in the haynes amnual and the parts books and just can't get a good picture.  I fixed the rattle by adjusting the central shaft .

To add to Rick's comments about the latch pooping loose:

It is possible that the central shaft has been screwed into the base too far. The upper end is a threaded rod with a lock-nut visible inside the spring. This makes the pinching mechanism Rick writes about grab the knob rather than closing fully around the shaft. There should be just enough slack when latched that you can push the bonnet down on the spring about 6mm (1/4"). No filing required.

I bought my car in Toronto and drove it home to Ottawa. It had been freshly painted, including a bonnet-off repaint. Driving merrily along I had a heart-stopping moment when the bonnet popped up a couple of inches. "Okay" I thought, "We hadn't latched it tight". After 3 or 4 more of these episodes, I wired the sucker shut with some 12GA copper wire I'd thought to bring along. I found later that the shaft had been screwed in a bit too far. Once adjusted, it has worked flawlessly ever since.

If your bonnet latch will not hold -the bonnet bounces loose, then take a round file and "sharpen" the edge that "bites" into the "pin".  These surfaces wear and lose the ability to "bite" and stay put!  I take the latches our of the slam panel so filing does not damage the finish of the slam panel.

Nicolas  I need to ask you a question about the bonnet latch installation and the wiper motor install can I callyou

and the lower catch

Here the are incase someone else needs them

both sides if you don't mind. Send to my eamil . ( [email protected].)

I'm in need of someoe thayt can get a photo of the bonnet latch installed. I thought I had a picture but wrong again. My car is a 66 Morris S.