Catalina Park- I'm a big bloke myself and 50 this year, a new knee, rods and screws in my back. I have a full tubular chassis that I have to crawl over to get in the car. It would be alot easier with the extra space.

Doug L- I'm not worried about the horn and turn signals. The car was is a Z-Car chassis and was built for racing. I'm putting on the extras for the lawman to keep legal!! I'll have to play it by ear till I get the parks and go from ther unless I hear of something else.

THANKS!!

I do not have a Mini steering column to check.  However, it is quite likely that QR hub you purchase can be bored out to fit the existing Mini column rather than cut anything off.  Of course... that all depends on how you want to handle the horn and turn signal canceling components.

Were it me and I wanted a QR hub I would bore out the QR column part to fit the Mini column, slide it down hopefully to a location that still allowed the turn signal to cancel, then TIG weld it to the column in three locations around the joint.  I would try to NOT cut off the Mini's splines and I would not MIG weld it.  The smaller TIG welds will be very strong without the necessity of grinding away material.  If you change your mind later you could carefully machine away the QR hub to restore the original steering column.

Funnily enough in some countries (like Australia) it is illegal to weld steering componants (unless it is done with proper certification.) Probably for good reason.

Is there any real reason that a Mini requires a removable steering wheel? I am a big bloke and I have never had any problem getting out of any race car with a fixed wheel with the sole exception of a Nascar. The Minis would be about the easiest.

OK, I think I figured out the type that I'm going to use. The one that gets welded on. I think it is a 3/4 shaft? Do you cut the splines of the mini shaft, then weld the splines, or do you slide it over and weld? 3/4 shaft is the right size to order? I like this look of welded one. The Boss adds more distance towards the driver and being over six foot I really dont need that!! THANKS!!

I would cut the excess from the bottom and re weld the pinch clamp back on. The top i would stay with the splines if you can Freddy as there is nothing more irritating than a wheel off center, although judging by the Mini's i have owned it does not seem to bother other people as much.

I'm not a fan of welding steering wheel hubs partly because it's permanent and also because I don't know how to weld. Yet.

I bought a quick release for my Mini Mayfair from //tcracing.org/p3.html

Worked well, awesome wheel but I didn't like the suede that I chose.

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I think depending on which one I'll use, I thinking around three inches. Can anyone else confirm or denie?

My pervious looks into this said 1 1/2 - 2" inches if you don't shorten the column to suit. Google the topic or go to the Summit racing site.

Freddy, you may want to consider shortening the shaft it self if you add a quick release hub to it as with the rear engine and bulkhead/firewall right behind the seat and your height you do not have much room to play with.

I wanted something that looked somewhat "period correct"... this is what I did

Lifeline spline, welded to my existing shaft, lifeline quick release fo Moto-Lita wheels

Any suggestions who sells any of these parts?

Thanks also, Thorty. Willsee if anyone has this issue.

Zeshin, thanks for the information. How much distance is loss to driver? I have options now. Thanks again.

Thanks Doug L. I thought the one with the splines would be my only choices. I'll have to see. Do you know how much distance it adds?

You can have a quick release without welding anything to your steering column.

If you use a boss/hub that works with a Momo, Sparco or Nardi steering wheel, you can purchase a quick release that sits between the boss and the Momo/Sparco/Nardi steering wheel.

Momo Boss --> Quick Release --> Steering Wheel

There are also adaptor rings that can convert a Moto Lita boss pattern into one for a Momo or Nardi wheel, allowing you to use a quick release and a Momo / Nardi steering wheel on a Moto Lita boss or a Moto Lita steering wheel on a quick release and Momo boss.

It really depends on if you want to use a classic aftermarket Mini steering wheel or a modern racing steering wheel.

On my race Mini I used a Momo boss -> NRG quick release -> Nardi Adaptor Ring -> Nardi Rally Wheel

One thing to keep in mind is the change in distance of the steering wheel when using a boss + quick release, as it creates a fairly long extension.

If your steering wheel is also dished, it can bring it really close to your seating position. 

Picture of my old setup:

November 2011 Issue of MiniWorld has a how-to on this.

As you have noted, there are different types of QR hubs.  Do not buy a cheap quick release hub.  Buy one from Summit, Jegs, Pegasus or some other reputable racing supplier.  You really get what you pay for.  I prefer the type with splines but the ones with a hex also work well.

As mentioned above, you will need to have the center part of the quick release welded to the steering column.  The outer part of the quick release will bolt to the steering wheel.  In most applications that means you will need an adapter plate to go between the steering wheel and the quick release hub.  The adapter plate will be selected to work with the steering wheel brand you choose.

The welding is best handled in the car with the wheels pointed straight ahead and the steering wheel on the other part of the hub.  Once welded, there is no turning back so it is important to have all the bits aligned like the will be while driving.

Your stackup becomes: 
center of QR welded on steering column,
outer ring of QR bolts to adapter plate,
steering wheel bolts to adapter plate.

If you want a working center pushbutton horn with your steering wheel... that raises complications.  A horn pushbutton mounted on the column or dash is easier to implement.  Depending on the type of QR you select you may or may not have problems retaining the turn signal canceling function should you wish to retain it.

Ok so weld the sleeve and adapt the wheel to hub how?