No worries, Steve.  The thread had the info needed, so taking it to dinner was just fine.   

Sorry about the hi jack. Glad you got them sorted. I have found that hose is not always what you think. I purchased 10 feet of 1/4 push loc hose to use as fuel lines. It just fell off the carbs even with a hose clamp. Turns out it's sized for use with push loc fittings. Great to realize 10 minutes before closest parts store closes.

Steve

Thanks, Angel, but I wouldn't know where to find one around here, unfortunately.  However, I wrapped wire around the barb area, and I now have leak-free hoses.

Thanks, all!

Take to a hydraulic shop and have them crimp some ferrules on the barb fitting like an a/c hose.

Hi, all.  Thanks, again, for the advice.  I have essentially three hoses to do, both ends, and then one end going into my cabinet.  I'll cover the wire with tape to ensure that things don't get snagged up, as suggested.

Enjoy the cooking!

Doug, it's cool living in the south. Alex has taken an interest in cooking and helps me with the cooking and shopping both. When he helps cook he eats twice as much. Coming from generations of thin fellows I like to see him eat well.

Steve

Hi Steve.  I also have a ball valve on the main line out of my compressor's tank.  I TRY to remember to shut it off but I am often guilty of leaving it open for days at a time.  I usually realize I forgot when I am sitting at the kitchen table and hear the compressor running in the garage.

I have Hoppin'-John ready for tomorrow along with hog jowls.  I will be up early making the good-luck breakfast.  Thankfully my sons love the food so I will have lots of help both cooking and eating.

Happy New Year Doug, I have not forgotten you. Next time we see each other I'll fill you in on current events. I'm cooking my black eyed peas and pork chops now in hopes of putting an end to my extreme back luck. We have spent more time talking about this than it would take to have proper hoses made up. I have a ball valve at my compressor and never leave it open when not in shop. It's not a good thing to have an end pop off with the compressor running till someone comes back. I have several 50s a couple of 10s and a 20 foot hose I have used for the last 20 years. I've had to replace a few disconnects but with a WD40 rag wipe now and then they have served me well.

Steve 

Jon, are you doing this to both ends of the hose or just one?  Hopefully this is just one end and you can limit the use of the hose clamps or bailing wire to the "static" end that is near the compressor.  Like  Steve said, the hose clamps do tend to get caught on things.

I have used safety wire on hoses before since it is smaller than bailing wire.  To do that I have taken the first "loop" of wire around the hose and run it through itself... sort of like half a knot.  Take the short free end of the knot and fold it over in the direction you are going to be wrapping/winding so as you wrap, the wraps cover that bit of wire.  Keep the wire tight as you go around the hose and wind until you have about an inch of free wire left.  Then twist the first end (the one folded under to loops) to the free end of the wire.  Cut this twisted pair off about 3/16" long and then wrap over them with electrical tape. 

I'd suggest trying the next, larger sized barbed fitting.

Our local Rubber Co. offers three grades of hose clamp. THe hose and barb they sell require you grease the assembly and heat the hose to seat it. These do not require a clamp and seal well. I don't like hose clamps or wire on my hoses. If you don't shorten the clamp and file the raw end you can get hooked same with wire. They also tend to catch on things. How many hoses are we talking about?

Steve

Thanks, all!  

@Doug, I have the correct size barb for the size hose, as stated on both the hose and barb packaging, but am not certain that both are truly the correct size (I bought the barbs at Harbor Freight, and we all know how accurate the HF elves are...).  The hose itself gets pretty hard in the cold, and is kind of slick, so doesn't like to seal.

I'm going to have a go at bailing wire, first; two wraps, then twist tight.  Failing that, I'll look for some good, quality hose clamps (preferably not the screw kind, as they are what I am currently using, and tend to not be good quality).

Jon, stupid question but... do you have the right size barb for the hose ID?  The barb should press into the hose with a bit of effort.  Once in, the worm type hose clamps are OK but as Kevin says, use the smallest (narrowest) worm clamps you can buy that will go around the hose.

If getting crimps fitted, try and use the one-eared ones- these have a steel wrap inside to prevent the hose getting pinched.

[edit] Worm drive hose clamps work OK but use the smallest one that fits the hose. These are more circular when tightened up.

Try some injection fuel hose clamps they tend to stay in a circular shape when tightened not like the others which adapt a D shape when tightened. Better still take them to a hose repair store and have them crimp the ends for you.

I bought air hose at Ace Hardware and made my own lengths.  I have barbed fittings and am using hose clamps, but still have problems with air leaking like crazy at the fittings.  Does anyone have any suggestions for sealing them?  Is there a sealant I can use successfully on the barbs?  Should I use wire-tie material in addition the clamps?

Thanks for any suggestions!