Simple test - remove the slave bolts, and push the slave towards the radiator a little. Now pull the arm away from the engine, and hold the pushrod in the correct orientation, and compare the end of the pushrod to the two threaded bolt-holes that were used to hold the slave in place. The end of the pushrod should at least reach the centre-line of the two threaded holes. This is the absolute minimum that things will work correctly. It is does not reach this point, then replace the arm, or extend the pushrod. I usually aim for a 1/4" past the centre-line of the threaded holes.

Next test - see where your clutch pedal actually wants to sit. If you have the bean-can brake and clutch masters, then both pedals should be sitting at the same height - there is no reason why they shouldn't, other than something is amis or was never made correctly. First time I ever built my mini, the pedal was too low. I was getting barely over half of the available stroke at the master cylinder!!! Fix here, is to heat and bend the pedal away from the firewall (or preferably) remove master cyl and extend the pushrod. I did the latter, and the problems went away.

Also, if you have a spring fitted to the arm, remove it. This is biased the wrong way and results in a clutch that needs adjusting. If anything, a spring would be best fitted to an extension welded to the side of the pushrod, with the other end of the spring fastened to the inner fender, which will always keep the release bearing contacting the clutch cover, and keep the free-play of the linkages and pivots taken up in the system.

 It will also allow you to throw-away the 1/4-28 adjustment screw so you don't need to worry about ever adjusting that again.

Angel, whats under the pedal? Just for fun remove all the carpet and pads and drive around. If that helps most likely lost motion in the system. When doing clutch work I replace the TO bearing the plunger the clutch arm and push rod with all clevis pins. If the budget allows then the slave, the hose, master and it's clevis. All this after the flywheel has been ground ring gear installed and the back plate ground with preload set. The disc and spring go without saying. The big orange seal is a good idea while that close.

CTR

I'll bet the slave cylinder rod is not going to buy you much.  To check the serviceability of the old one; have someone push the pedal in until the clutch is released (no need to run the engine for this).  Now pull back the slave cyl outer rubber and have a look where the slave piston sits.  If its hard against the outer circlip then a new rod is needed, otherwise, not...Although you can just add a spacer - another slave piston without seals? -  if you choose to...  I just had a small bit of steel welded on the end of the existing rod.

In my view, one of the most overlooked contributors to lack of clutch travel is a worn end on the master cyl. actuating rod.  While you're replacing the pedal/master clevis pin, have a good look at the shape of the holes its going through.

Cheers, Ian

Well I ordered all new clevis pins and a new rod for the slave sylinder. Should be in by mid-week. Thank you all for the technical advise. Hopefully my Mad Dog will be back on the road this weekend.

The throwout stop lock nut does nothing to adjust the takeup point, it is an OVERthrow stop, noting more. Unless it's screwed IN too far.. and limiting normal clutch travel. Early Minis didn't have this stop, nor do 1/2 the race cars out there.

`Take up' point is adjusted with the little stop screw in the cover. This adjusts the freeplay at the pedal.
Screw it in = more  pedal freeplay = takeup point lower.
Screw it out (but not so far there is no clearance) - less pedal freeplay = takeup point higher.
Note some Minis had a 0.7" bore clutch MC- these do not move enough fluid and should be replaced with the normal 0.75" bore one.

Had a similar issue this weekend. Low pedal and lack of disengagement. After spending some time adjusting the throwout the solution came when we bled the slave by pushing the plunger toward the bleed nipple. It was amazing how much air was trapped there. Readjusted the throwout and all was good again.

Check for lost motion in the slave system.

Sometimes the ball end of the operating arm wears where it goes into the bell housing plunger (due to lack of lubracation).  So half the movement from the slave cyl goes to compensating for this wear.

So some people bend the arm to compensate but I prefer to lengthen the slave cyl push rod.

 

I've adjusted the clutch throwout stop per the manual several times to the point where Mrs Mad Dog was complaining about here left knee getting wore out from pushing the clutch pedal so many times. Just for spike I'm going to order a whole new set of clevis pins and a new push rod for the slave cylinder to see if that helps. Keep y'all posted. Thanks for the tips.

If the throwout stop is not adjusted properly -- this is the large nut and locknut on the plunger, you will have issues.

Chapter 5, Clutch.

 

Back out the stop bolt a turn, lock the jam nut, pump pedal a few times and take it for a spin.  If the engagement point does not raise off floor enough re-do the above steps.  If you go too far you'll get clutch slip obviously.

Jeremy

That distance allows the throwout bearing to idle between disengagements when everything is hot.  I don't know what the exact minimum you could go to is.

Is the throwout stop nut properly adjusted?  Is the wear in the various plungers, ball ends, clevis pins and so on so much that the piston in the slave is reaching the end of its travel before the clutch is fully disengaged?  eel the boot back and have a look.

Not 100% sure, but from my experience, adjusting the clutch throwout stop out moved my pedal engagement up.

However, I re-adjusted the clutch throwout stop further in, as per the Haynes manual, and my clutch engages very low now like you are describing.

I just got used to it and I can shift smoother now than when it was engaging higher up the pedal travel.

 

The clutch return stop adjustment calls for 0.20" gap. This is for a pre-verto clutch system. Would decreasing or increasing this gap raise or lower where the clutch pedal catches? My pedal is catching very low and it's hard to shift. I've adjusted the throwout and the clutch return stop adjustments and the pedal is still catching low. I've checked the clevis pins at both the clutch arm and at the slave cylinder and there is no excessive wear. I've checked the slave cylinder rod to make sure it isn't elongated and it's OK. The master cylinder is new and the clevis pin is new also. The clutch hose is new (braided type). The clutch arm shows no excessive wear on it either so I'm baffled by what might be causing so much clutch free travel. That's why I'm wondering if you increase or decrease the clutch return stop would it increase or decrease the free travel. Any thoughts?

Cheers

Angel