As you have a decent 1275 A+ from MM whay don't you just build that one yourself or have someone do it over time to the specs you want and use the one you have after fixing the minor leak in the meantime. Most of these "core" engines sold here and elsewhere i have seen will run fine with just a few tweaks also, btw why do you want to use non verto just curious ?

The thoughts - it costs around $2000.00 to rebuild an engine with you doing the assembly.  This is not including transmission work.  Bearings, rings, gaskets, grind crank, head work it all adds up.

sounds to me like you are taking a sledge hammer to kill a fly.  First, oil drips are unsightly and unnecessary. Take a hose and rinse your engine and find the leak. I bet it is coming from the rod shifter shaft. $10 - $15. A couple of other simple possiblities is the ooil drain plug is not tight,  oil filter not tight, or axle  seals . After you solve that. Then do a compression check.  Alot of british engines smoke a little.

I run a lightened flywheel and a 45 Dellorto, have never stalled it at the lights. Maybe could if you run a BIG race cam, but mine is 282° with 1.5 rockers.

Very helpful Inno and Drmini, thanks.  

I think I may leave the lump in there until I really need to do a swap.  

I had consulted with a couple people including Jacques at Bay Bridge Motors about a lightened flywheel.  BBM is where I take my mini when I get stuck and need a pro's help.  He had advised not to do the lightened flywheel but he always seems very conservative.  He frowns at my Dellorto side draught carb.  

His concerns were possibly having a greater chance of stalling at lights.  Whats your experience? 

I wouldn't do anything rash (like spending $$$$$), yet.

I would wash the motor down, hose it off then run it for a bit. Get under & inspect where the oil is coming from.
There are 4 common leak spots:

Timing cover seal
Clutch housing seal
Diff side cover/output shaft seals x2
Rodchange shift seal (if it's a rodchange box)

All these seals can be replaced in the car, no big deal. If the sidecover bushes are worn (move shafts up/down to check) they need replacing too, but this can also be done in the car, once you pull the hubs and driveshafts and unbolt the covers. These bushes need boring or honing to size after pressing in. Watch gasket thickness and shims needed when refitting.

[edit] The puff of smoke when starting is probably the valve stem seals gone hard. Easy fix too.

Hi Inno, Yes, as long as they're both rod change boxes, its a straight swap.  You could also swap your existing pre-verto clutch bits into the A+ and use a lightweght flywheel (pretty much my favourite Mini mod).

Minterp, yes all the major compnents are interchageable.  About the only thing that needs care is to ensure that the drop gear case matches the idler gear that matches the gearbox (I think all A+s have the later stronger version).  The additive I use costs $16 to treat 1000 L - at that rate you need to do a LOT of miles before breaking even with the cost of hardened valve seats... so I haven't bothered.

Cheers, Ian

This has been good feedback.   Thanks.  yes, my friends says my paranoia with dripping oil is bordering on psychosis.  It is just 2 or 3 , 1-2 inch spots under the car when I pull in after driving more than a while.   

So, yes a rod change.  It should be a straight drop in.    

I should have said my buddy and I have done all the work in my garage but I had dreams of dropping in one of those sexy 1380s with hot cams.  Almost $7k for a 1380 at 7ent.com seems like a lot though.  

When I said rebuild and swap, I meant the A+ block, head and my gearbox swap(mixing and matching the good parts of each of my engines), not swapping the engines out of the mini, I can do that.    I also was hoping to have someone harden the valve seats so I can run unleaded gas without an additive.  

Ian

Thanks for the reply. That is where I was confused. The type of trans wasn't mentioned. So my thinking is correct, a rod change to rod change (pre to A+) is a drop in?

I'm with 61MM  and would be very careful before spending too much money.. a few drips of oil and puffs of smoke sound like normal behaviour for a Mini engine to me... I would not be suprised (or to put it more strongly) I would be surprised if you noticed any difference after spending the money (noting that we have no reference to calibrate your terms  "few" and "occasional".... )

The answers to the post prior to this one are not straightforward... as they said in the movie "need more input"....

A "pre-verto" engine may or may not have a rod change gearbox...  if it does then - for installation purposes - it is identical to the A+.  If not, you will need to fabricate different shift mechanism mounts (no big deal) to install the A+.  If you want to swap 'boxes you need to be careful that you take account of possible differences in idler gear type.  However, if you use the full kit (matching gearbox, transfer case and idler) the transmissions are a straight swap (note previous comment re shifters).

Cheers, Ian

Question? If you originally have a pre-verto engine and install an A+ you have to switch trans or is it a drop in replace? If you drop in the A+ with trans what ha to be replaced to use as-is?

Well if it's not burning substantial amounts of oil and still has good power I'd keep using it.

I always felt that a little blue smoke now and then from a classic car just somehow looks right.

Granted I'm not an engine builder... but if the motor that you have is still otherwise good (and you like it)... have it torn down, replace bearings rings etc and rebuild... it would save some money compared to a "new" engine...

The MM engine could probably be tackled without too  much effort as well...

Having a special engine built and maintained ($$$) is a bit much..

Just my two cents...  Good luck!

Its not dripping. Its marking its spot.

Based on the above statements, you will need to be prepared to buy an engine for big money and have it professionally installed and maintained by the shop who built it for you.

I wish you luck with your ownership of classic British cars.

I am stuck with a decision to make.  I have two 1275 engines/trans, both work.  

The one that is in my car is an A, pre-verto, reconditioned head, new heavy duty clutch, flat head pistons bored +030.  It works great.  Took me over the passes in the 400+ mile Snowball Rally this year.   Problem: Small drips of oil and occasional puff of blue smoke on acceleration.  Not terrible, but bothers me.  

The other one I bought is from our hosts here at minimania.  I am 99% sure it is the engine in the example photo they use for "Used 1275 A+ engines".  They stated it was wet tested and held compression for all cylinders and seems pretty good.  It is a verto which is not a big deal but I would have to convert it. They were very clear that it should be rebuilt before relying on it.  I agree.  Don was very cool about buying my crummy 998 and selling me this one.  

So the questions.  Should I sell both and get an MM or 7ent rebuilt engine? (seem pricey) do I get the A+ rebuilt with my A's pre-verto transmission. If so, does anyone know a reputable shop in Oakland/Berkeley that can rebuild the engine and do the swap?  Can I use my reconed A head and A trans with the A+ block?  What are the drawbacks?  

Any thoughts would be helpful.