Thanks to all for the inputs.  slowly getting to the replacementt.  Like so,many projects, i've been interupted  by other more pressing jobs.  bought a sandblster to do a proper cleanupof the radiatorcowling that looks sound but has more cosmeticrust than i wanted to leave. will give report o the sandblaster after i'm done. (A$35.00unit fromharbor freight.) Yesthe Northwest corner gets a might chilly from time to time..

Spitz: Since Water Wetter is not an antifreeze, any temperatures below 32F are dangerous if that is all you use. Folks living in LA and Phoenix are OK with it. I do have to admit that I was surprised to hear about how cold it can get in Arkansas though! Since the original poster stated he's never had any overheating issues, something like Water Wetter that increases cooling performance was not needed by him.

Scooter, I agree with you that 1963's "tap water" advice is not a good idea. Distilled water is free (from any de-humidifier), or cheap (from hardware store), and is the key part of preventing most of the corrosion / contamination issues in the cooling system.

However, I DO agree with his advice of using normal antifreeze (plus distilled water).

I have been curious about that new-fangled, "waterless coolant", but I would not assume that it had the necessary corrosion and cavitation preventatives for durability in an iron block + copper core radiator. For instance, the modern, "long life coolants" that are used in many new cars today are not designed for those materials (they are designed for aluminum engines + aluminum radiators), so they lack some key ingredients that we need. As a result, in an LBC engine, the old fashioned green antifreeze should be stuck with, and flushed/changed every two years, or so (because that's about how long it takes for the ingredients that protect cast iron to wear out).

Norm

you can buy antifreeze at a 50-50 mix thus avoiding how much to mix and using your tap water in AK.

 

BTW, I'm pretty sure the badges on your car # 2 does not end with an "N".

austin america, not american!

 

Well we normally get 10 to18 inches of snow through a winter. We get a few -7 f  every few ears.

So it would be risky to not have at least -15 to - 20 protection.

Does it snow and get cold in Arkansas? ( not sure if that's in the South or North )

Do you really need -40 protection?

Water Wetter is great //www.redlineoil.com/Products.aspx?pcid=10

 

New Rad on the way from DSN (UK)  Price worked out about the same as buying from stateside sellers after shipping was added. 

Before it gets here I plan on repainting a few pieces (Shroud and brackets) to make things look a bit better and to get rid of some rust that popped up on those two pieces. 

 

Still debating the antifreeze choice.  Based on consistent comments, if I go with conventional coolant tap water is out - every review and manufacturer states tap water is going to increase corrosion issues and decrease effectiveness of coolant properties.  Besides distilled water isn't that expensive especially since I need about 1/2 a gallon max for the recommended 50/50 mix. 

 

The Evans still sounds interesting since it would eliminate likelihood of any future leaks popping up due to pressure.  With a 375 degree boiling point, the system could be run with a very low pressure cap.  Haven't decided yet

^{You can buy a replacement for your current unit in the UK for (significantly) less than  a hundred bucks and an uprated one for not much more...  shipping is not expensive if you avoid door to door couriers.}

Jay Leno probably doesn't pay for his coolant whereas any brand name antifreeze with tap water will suit your Mini just fine.  Change it every couple of years and you might have to buy a new rad in the next 40 years or so..

Cheers, Ian

I had a local rad shop rebuild a rad with a super-cool core. The price was $300 so MM prices aren't too bad really. With a new rad you get brand new header tanks as well. On another rad  the same shop showed me where the water flow had worn the header tank to the point of making a hole.

//www.minimania.com/part/C-ARA4442/Radiator-2-Core-Super-Cool-Mini--Mini-Cooper-S

a tad over your budget....but a good one

and this is on sale

//www.minimania.com/part/C-ARA5000/Aluminum-Radiator-Side-Mount-Mini--Mini-Cooper-S

 

Well got up the other day and found a puddle of antifreeze on the floor.  Haven't had time to trace it completely but I did find a clear rust trail from the upper inside face of the radiator.   Suspect that it may have reached the end of life.  Given the labor costs around here and lack of skilled shops I'm probably looking at a new one.  Rusty water all over the support 'tray'.   Definitely will check for loose or compromised hoses / connections before buying a new rad.  This

Here are the questions:

1) Best radiator without spending a ton (Over $200-$250)  (Currently this has a 3 core (3 rows of Tubes))

This is a stock 1275 no mods and it has consistently run cool even with a 180 thermostat.  My typical drive to town, work etc is not more than 8-9 miles so it just doesn't get anywhere near hot.  In fact it never reaches the normal mark on most drives even if I sit and warm it up before leaving the driveway.

2)  Evan's waterless coolant - Any experience?   Jay Leno seems to like it and runs it in his high end rigs.  Price is a bit steep but if it last 'forever' then it might be worth it.   Since overheating hasn't been an issue I figure  the accusations of a lower heat transfer rate isn't a problem.  If not Evan's then what is the best antifreeze that is readily available.  Either I send off for the Evans or look for something I can buy locally.  Worn out reading all the OAT, Dexcool stories and I know that a mini is still a iron block, iron head engine that needs corrosion protection.

Oh yeah I will probably go ahead and replace some of the hoses at the same time - Bought this 2 years ago run about 3500 miles and the hoses were all new when I got it.