I'd say 35-40lb/ft would do for spacer selection testing, with either CV type.

That would make sense - the drawing is not a manufacturing spec so some of the fine detail (like tolerances) don't appear...

How much torque would you suggest needs to be applied to test the spacer dimension??

Cheers, Ian

The drawings may be wrong, the small CV nut does not pull the drive flange right through the bearings and up against the CV body. There is an air gap there of 1.5mm? (guess). They do not touch.
In both CV type configurations the centre spacer width is critical, for the same reasons. If you do not have it wide enough you will brinell the bearings, if too wide, the assembly will have endfloat.
Each assembly needs to be checked for smooth rotation after torqueing up. I do a trial build with no seals fitted. If stiff and jerky when turned by hand I select a wider spacer. If it has endfloat, I measure that and select or machine a spacer to be (endfloat +.001") thinner.
When I'm happy I then fit the seals....
These problems arise if using `noname' roller bearings, or if the center web in the hub is worn. Timken kits are usually OK in new or undamaged hubs.

Why is the disK type CV done up so tight? This drive flange (unlike the drum one) is only located on a very short spline and is not supported in both bearings. If loose, it wears then rocks about and affects the bearing preload.

Yes , I was wrong ... I didn't realise that the drum/Cooper drive flange is a different configuration to that of the S - I just thought it was smaller....

And, what's more interesting, is the question as to whether tapered rollers work properly on drum/Cooper brakes??

Its obvious from the drawings that on an S the torque on the nut loads the rollers against their outer races with the actual load being controlled by the width of the centre spacer.  However, the drum/Cooper nut loads the drive flange against the outer face of the CV joint... so it becomes critical that the spacer is exactly the correct thickness. 

Too thin a spacer will cause the exact symptoms being complained about ..as would one that is too thick....

And why does the S hub require such a hgh specified torque?????  Was it just because of higher loads expected in competition???

????????

Cheers, Ian

Ian,
It is unrelated to bearing type. It is because of the smaller thread and nut on the drum brake Mini/Cooper 997-998 CV. If you put 150lb/ft on it you will strip the thread off the CV. I have seen it happen...
[edit] The spacer is solid, it is not a collapsible spacer as found on a RWD diff pinion. The extra torque will not make the assembly any shorter.. it'll just bugger the threads.

Just wondering why that would be - as the torque is to preload the bearings ???  Why else would it matter (as long as it didn't fall off, of course???

Cheers, Ian

WHOA...the torque is for the drive flange/cv type not the bearing type.

The torque is for the bearings - not the CV type.

I suppose the drum/Cooper CV is smaller but I would not be using the normal (ball bearing) settings...

Cheers, Ian

Eh, dont torque it to 150-160lbs. Its still a drum brake set up and should be torqued to 60-65lbs only.

EDIT: The bearing races ride on the drive flange shaft, not the cv joint shaft. Sorry Ian but I gotta disagree with ya on this one, the torque spec is for the drum brake cv joint and shouldn't be increased for tapered bearings. I havent tried it but I doubt the threads on a drum brake cv will hold 150-160lbs torque.

I could be wrong but I dont want to find out at 70mph either...

Sometimes the tapered spacers on the drive flange clamp onto the CV stopping it being pulled all the way through the bearings. So, despite the drive shaft nut being properly torqued up, the bearings are not clamped between the nut/spacer and the CV joint.

Remove the main nut and make sure the CV is "all the way" though the bearings - you can feel this by manipulating the CV by hand. Replace nut and re-torque..

Or, replace the outer conical spacer with a large flat washer (one that won't bend or bind on the CV shaft).

Replace and torque up the nut (no need to go overboard - just tighten it up).

Remove nut and washer, re-install conical spacer and torque nut to spec (150-160ftlb - ish)

Good luck, Ian

Clean and inspect the bearings. If damage is there could be obvious, maybe not with just 20 miles. No damage on bearings, reinstall.

Try the bearing before buying a new set. I doubt 20 miles would damage it with new grease.

Is the castle nut tight?  It may loosen, which the guys here told me was a bad CV - not a big deal to replace.

I replaced some worn wheel bearings on a mini with drum brakes with tapered roller bearings. One side went perfectly. The other side had some issues. Due to it being a long day and me being tired, I didn't notice that the hub itself was worn. Wheel play was about the same as before I replaced the bearings. Put about 20 miles or so on it that way before I replaced the hub with a good one. Now the play is reduced, but it's still there. I remember reading that sometimes the spacers are not made properly and may be too thick. At this point, so have 3 options: 1) take the spacer out and sand it down a bit and refit, 2) buy a new spacer, or 3) buy a new wheel bearing kit. 

I'd try option 1, but since I drove on it, to you think I may have damaged the new bearings?  I'd hate to go through all that work just to find out I need a new set anyway. I'd appreciate any advice or opinions.