I'm not saying it can't be used for short term or forever if you like. I may not read posts as well as I should. The way I read it the outer race is for the outer bearing. This part of the hub is quite thin and often found to be out of round without the race in place. The way I see it the wear is in the area where the race sits. Of course there should not be any wear in the seal area. The race will still have press fit till it's seated. If the outer race is installed then the hub flipped and the inner race driven in place and this causes the first installed race to move there is not much press. It's a bummer when this happens to a customer or me. I have to send a job out knowing it has every chance to succeed. When you do buy a new hub get a new bearing kit as well. You can order ball joint loc tabs and rubber seals and move the ball joints over. 

I will suggest you you check the bearing preload before installing the seals. I have made a jig that I bolt the hubs to using the caliper lugs. I place the jig in my big vise and after installing the races I bolt hub in place lightly grease the bearings stick them in place beting careful not to allow them to fall on the floor. I keep old S CVs on hand and slip one in place followed by a S drive flance without disc. The taper cone and nut in place I hit it with the impact. This way I can measure any free play and get a good idea of fit. Over the years I have save all the Timken spacers I have removed. I also found some tube stock I can machine spacers from. A dial indicator mounted on the jig helps. You don't want them to tight this will cause heat and spin the race. To loose will cause wobble. Without the seals I can remove the spacer and adjust as required. Once I'm happy the bearings get properly greased and the seals installed. I place in gallon zip locs untill ready to install . Don't foget the plastic splash shields. Steve (CTR)    

Dan, I assumed from your earlier posts that the bad seat was "really loose".  If it was still a press fit (even if that press fit was less than the other three) you should be OK.  However, this obviously concerns you so using the Loctite with that bearing would certainly be justified for your peace of mind.  Having a light press and the Loctite, I would be comfortable using this part on my car.

For virtually all grades of Loctite you need to thoroughly degrease the surfaces.  That's not going to be fun with a hub but it is necessary.  Be sure to completely degrease the bearing seat and all the bore wall surfaces the race might contact while being driven in.  Some may encourage you to invest in Loctite primer at the same time.  Primer is needed on what Loctite considers "inactive" surfaces like anodized aluminum.  However, the primer also reduces the cured strength of most Loctite grades.  So in this instance I would skip the primer, degrease the parts completely, apply the Loctite to both parts, assemble, and wipe off the excess.  Allow at least half an hour for the material to cure before re-greasing the bearings and assembling on the car. 

EDIT: Loctite is expensive.  You are only going to need the smallest amount of "660" for this assembly so look for the 6ml tubes.  They should be available online for somewhere close to $15 as opposed to $50+ for the larger bottles.

Zippy,   it was a good trade. I harbor no I'll feelings.

Spank, can do...

I'd have no qualms about running it myself. I wouldn't sell it to someone, but I'd run it in my own car(s). If you come time to replacing it, I'll take the "bad" one and have it on hand for backup LeMons duty (Will make it a built up hub assembly ready to pop on w/ axle and all).

I've gotten familiar with the sinking feeling when you purchase something that isn't what's advertised. (First time since I've been in the Mini universe)

Isn't that right Alfredo?

Well, this is an "aw sh!t" moment. I traded a roof for these hubs.

The race just isn't as tight as I would like to be. It had to be driven down to the seat just like the other 3. It just didn't take as much force to seat it as the rest. Doesn't spin or anything but it did dislodge alittle off the seat when I was driving (banging the h3ll out of) the other race in so I figure it could use some help staying in place.

I think I'll check into the loctite Doug mentioned until I can get the funds for a new hub. (Xmas is booked up with a delete pipe, gauges and a pyrometer for my truck)

I've done the "dimpling" thing also.  It does work when you are in a bind.

After reading the PDF product literature that is available online, the only compound I listed above that I would consider using is "660".  Though these are all Loctite products, the "660" isn't a thread-locker like "242" (blue) or "271" (red).  "660" is formulated for a different purpose, specifically addressing shaft and seat wear for bearings.  However, I would consider it only a stopgap fix until you can source new metal.

//www.loctite.sg/sea/content_data/93755_Loctite_660_Quick_Metal_Retaining_Compound.pdf

I agree, get a new upright.

Once used a punch to dimple a hub to hang onto the outer race as a temporary solution...hub then went to recycling.

I would only consider the Loctite bearing retainer products as "get you home until you can source a new hub".
The common blue Loctite is more of a vibration resistant locking compound. The fastener can be broken loose with the same torque value used at assembly.
The common red Loctite is more permanent and can only be loosened with greater force and/or heat and, perhaps, some cuss words.

The green Loctite Steve mentioned is probably "680" which in industry is used to fix races to shafts or bores in stationary equipment.  "640" is used to fix sleeves onto shafts and may be a possibility also.  For a harder Loctite, you could consider "270" which is red and darn near impossible to break loose.  However, Loctite also makes a bearing seat repair compound, "660".  "660" is made to fill gaps in worn bearing housings.  You may want to Google for more information on it to see if it sounds suitable.

Most bearing houses sell Loctite products.  If they don't have it you can get most compounds from McMaster-Carr (mcmaster.com) or Jegs.

Throw the hub away and buy new. If you are using real Timken bearings and the outer race is still loose the hub has wear. There is a green sleeve set Loctite if you don't plan to drive the car much. If the wear has gotten to the shoulder within the hub your pre load on the bearing will be off and the hub will have wobble. Steve (CTR)

I'm building up a set of S brakes and hubs and have one bearing race that isn't as tight as I would like it to be.

I've read on here that you can set it in place using loctite. Which kind? 

I need to pick up some blue medium loctite 242 for my trucks trany pan bolts. Is this strong enough ou should I go for the stronger red one?

thx, dan