thanks for the pictures, and as you said above, the cooler won't fit by the starter.  So rolling the edge of the grill hole or moving it closer to the alternator which will require longer hoses.  

Jerry 

All good stuff MtyMous...but for those that don't have gauges, if you are driving in hot weather and your oil pressure falls as engine coolant temperature rises to hot...you may be a candidate for an oil cooler and/or an extra rad and gauges would be indicated.

When you are actually out there, as in crossing Australia's Kimberley, and temps are 45 C/113 F theoretical discussions are a total waste of time.  There are no Mini rescue services, so you had best prepare for and manage your own crossing.

ROO had new standard radiator, water pump, hoses, belt, thermostat, new electronic ignition...and...a GM pickup truck heater core facing the airflow behind the grill.  Similarly, John had an extra rad in his Mini sedan (with trailer).  Both vehicles were loaded with gear, extra water, spares tools etc.

It was the modern diesel utes with/without caravans that got carted off on flat decks (ka-ching, ka-ching, ka-ching) while the Minis rolled.

I have an oil cooler, and I will say this. If you have a cooler, you should have an oil temp gauge. There are a lot of people saying you don't need one. I will say "you might not need one". But do yourself a favor and get a good oil temp gauge first. This way you know what's going on. If your oil is getting too hot, the cooler will fix it and you'll be able to watch the oil temp. I personally let my mini idle for at least 5 minutes before driving it anywhere when the engine is cold. 

Not only do I recommend an oil temp gauge... I recommend an oil pressure gauge. If you see your oil temp is perfect, but your presure is dropping, you have a different issue. This keeps you from wasting money on a cooler unnecessarily and lets you use that money instead to fix the real issue. You may have "frothy" oil and need a windage tray (just an example) or maybe you need a center oil pickup because you have a starvation issue. 

But it is still possible that you might actualy need an oil cooler. I needed one on my 998 in stop/go traffic in summer in Texas. Water temp was fine, but oil would get a decent bit above op temp. And it takes a lot longer for oil temp to drop than it does for water. The extra capacity coupled with the cooler's intended purpose kept the oil in check, and brought it to a god op temp after I started moving again. Sure there could have been other issues but the engine ran great, timing was dead on, and fuel mixture was just a hair rich. 

But I only know that because... I had gauges. Lol

I cut the vertical brace and turned it into a diagonal one by adding a bit of a donor brace to it.

A year later I took the cooler off and put it on the shelf. That was 6 years ago and it's still there. I have 70+psi on the freeway in mid summer with NO cooler, IMO there's no need for one unless tracking the car.

Cut it out.  Agree that "If you bought a "standard" Mini sized oil cooler you'll find it won't fit between the starter mount and the brace".  Also, clearance may be an issue still.  My 'grill is shimmed out about 1/4 inch to accomadate clearance between Starter and other stuff.  

Just remove the brace... you don't need it. 

If you bought a "standard" Mini sized oil cooler you'll find it won't fit between the starter mount and the brace

When I did mine years ago, I built a coupe of supports between the top of the cooler and the bonnet slam panel.  After a while I decided these were in the way and deleted them.

So far (20 years or so) there haven't been any adverse consequences...

Cheers, Ian 

Chuck makes a good point about oil coolers (and the same applies to extra radiators which can be readily added for travel in hot climate/conditions).

The wonderful thing about having a cooler (or extra rad) is that it can be readily blocked off if not needed.

For long distance summertime travel or just crossing the Mojave Desert in late June or traversing the Kimberly in Western Australia knowing that temps will NOT get out of hand is a good thing.

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Apart from the diagonal in place of the straight up apron strut, you can roll the lip of the apron opening to mount the oil cooler by using 6 pcs of wood clamped with vise grips or similar and if you allow for a "roll area" between the upright and to be rolled lip (transition not too sharp), there is a better than even chance you will not crack the paint.  More easily done with power unit out of the car of course but this may not be the story in most cases.

AH,  more parts to buy!   I guess that job gets postponed.  I live in the Sacramento valley so in the summer, it is temps of 90-105 although I prefer to not drive in anything over about 95.  

One to the seat mounts.  

Thanks for the help.  

Jerry

You could install the proper angle brace.

Or don't install the oil cooler. Your profile doesn't say where you live, but unless you live in a very hot climate or are going to track your car, you likely don't need the cooler.

remove the brace

grill opening on a MK 1 MK2.  It has a brace from top to bottom on the left of center area.  This seems to be interfering with my installation of the oil cooler.  The one paragraph semi-instructions with the oil cooler indicated that this brace might need to be cut.  Is this your experience or is there another place for the oil cooler?

Jerry

MK 2