Orig. Posting Date | User Name | Edit Date |
Mar 17, 2015 06:48AM | SirCoop | |
Mar 15, 2015 01:23PM | DRMINI | |
Mar 15, 2015 05:47AM | MtyMous | |
Mar 14, 2015 11:50PM | DRMINI | |
Mar 14, 2015 09:30PM | MtyMous | |
Mar 14, 2015 08:04PM | DRMINI | |
Mar 14, 2015 04:31PM | MtyMous |
Total posts: 217
Last post: Jul 20, 2022 Member since:Apr 16, 2012
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Cars in Garage: 0
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Here's some-
ARP part numbers:
Rod Bolts:
A Series 3/8" 206-6001 (Cooper S, non-S 1275, early)
BB Ford 3/8" 155-6002 (cheaper replacement for above, = 2 sets of bolts)
A & B Series 11/32" 206-6002 (Non S, 1275, late A series)
A Series Cap head 3/8” 200-6207 (850-997-998-1098 Rods)
Head Studs:
A Series, 9 studs 206-4201
A Series, 11 studs 206-4204
A Series, 11 studs, for decked head 206-4206
Main Cap studs:
A Series 206-5401 (Cooper S)
Awesome,
That's the same info I was looking for on another thread.
SirCoop
Total posts: 8645
Last post: Dec 16, 2020 Member since:Oct 27, 2000
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I would use the stock ARP main cap bolts. They work fine.
Be aware that if fitting ARP's S studs, the nuts or the end of the studs may foul the idler gear web in the gearbox. Check it.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
Total posts: 2277
Last post: Oct 6, 2022 Member since:Nov 18, 2007
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 77 WorkBench Posts: 2 |
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Fantastic information. I had them on my list to purchase. Do you think it's worth doing, or would a set of original hardware be a better investment. I'm building a 1380 that should have a good bit of pep.
Total posts: 8645
Last post: Dec 16, 2020 Member since:Oct 27, 2000
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If you want to use them in a regular 1275, you would need to machine the cap location register off them. A Cooper S does not have hollow dowels to locate the caps, it uses the studs.
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
Total posts: 2277
Last post: Oct 6, 2022 Member since:Nov 18, 2007
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 77 WorkBench Posts: 2 |
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Well crap. DRMINI has already listed the 4 that I had. haha.
Your description on the main cap studs says "Cooper S", but I don't see anywhere that specifies Cooper S only.
Total posts: 8645
Last post: Dec 16, 2020 Member since:Oct 27, 2000
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Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Here's some-
ARP part numbers:
Rod Bolts:
A Series 3/8" 206-6001 (Cooper S, non-S 1275, early)
BB Ford 3/8" 155-6002 (cheaper replacement for above, = 2 sets of bolts)
A & B Series 11/32" 206-6002 (Non S, 1275, late A series)
A Series Cap head 3/8” 200-6207 (850-997-998-1098 Rods)
Head Studs:
A Series, 9 studs 206-4201
A Series, 11 studs 206-4204
A Series, 11 studs, for decked head 206-4206
Main Cap studs:
A Series 206-5401 (Cooper S)
Kevin G
1360 power- Morris 1300 auto block, S crank & rods, Russell Engineering RE282 sprint cam, over 125HP at crank, 86.6HP at the wheels @7000+.
Total posts: 2277
Last post: Oct 6, 2022 Member since:Nov 18, 2007
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 77 WorkBench Posts: 2 |
![]() |
So I wanted to start this thread to piggyback on another thread and maybe consolidate everything into one place. I'm looking to see who has the part numbers and kit numbers for ARP's replacement bolts for the A-series engines. There may be a lot of information out there, but it's a good resource for the community. I know I can personally use it and I bet there's a lot of utility in it for others. I'll begin posting what I have when I get back to my computer and I'll update this first post as information is added.