But of course;-)

Also whenever you change the angle of the steering column with any lowering bracket be sure to loosen the rack bolts. If not the splines may not fully engage and shear.

-Shawn

Oh, I am well versed in that very smart little trick. With this car, I am really lucky though. Every bolt and screw has come out as it should. The car was very well cared for before I bought it and I do the same. Its so refreshing in this "line of work"

Minimile1's suggestion is a very good one. It doesn't just "break the interference fit" but can crack loose partially seized threads - ones that have been togeher for a loooong time. NO more that 1/8 to 1/4 turn though - you risk twisting the bolt or stud shft in two.

For some items I know I'm going to have to drill out and clean up threads because they are going to break anyway, I sometimes save a lot of time and aggravation by getting it over with - by twisting the sucker off.

coop, there's an old 'trick'.  tighten the bolt a cinch, and then back it out. It's breaks the interference fit.

Use it on all old bolts and screws you're trying to remove. It can avoid the broken head syndrom.

Haha!!! I have a running joke with my brother about hammers and cars. Its his go-to tool! Ha!

Yeah, that is what I did. Cut first and widen...just didnt do it enough and used too small a screw driver. It was toast at that point and there wasnt enough room to do another. Anyway, I'm REALLY glad I'm done with this job.

when using a dremel tool, you can cut the slot the width of the cutting wheel with the first pass, and then widen it and deepen it with multiple

cuts.  A hammer is for nails, not  usually for automotive work except freeing up a brake drum or ball joint and body work. That impact driver uses heads. phillips, slotted, and sockets. Also the wrong tool.  Glad you got it apart though.

Oh man, WHAT A PAIN IN THE BUTT!!!!

The right tool in what is needed from the start for sure. Hammer-on (rounded off hex bolt) extractor didnt work at all. Its just so tight a space. I tried the slot next. Used too thin a cutting blade (all I had) and actually bent my screw driver trying to get it to go. Went out and got a thicker cutting wheel but I think it was too late for that one. I ended up cutting as many grooves as I could in it (given the space) until I was able to hammer the bracket off. The second bolt, I used the ticker wheel and a larger screw driver and it came off 1-2 quick. After both were off, the spreader plate came out and the threaded section that was left came out with my hand! Again, the right tool from the start would have been best.

Totally typical job. Thought it would take a few hours...ended up taking two nights:-)

cutting a slot as above worked for me.

Or else, drill a small hole say 1/16" on the edge of the shear biolt head, and use a centre punch to knock it anti-clockwise.

I did this about a year ago and I honestly don't remember how I did it. I'm fairly certain I cut slots with a dremel (I remember it being pretty tight in there) and then cranking on it with a big freaking flat head screwdriver. Make sure you post on here how you got it done. There will be many others that are interested.

I want to know which bracket you're going with and how you like it.

'COOP,

I used a broken off hacksaw blade held by a pair of vice-grips (iirc) and then a flat blade screwdriver.

I reasoned the hacksaw blade would cut a wider slot than the rotary tool.

A "dremel" will work, but the slot you'll cut in the head of bolt will be a narrow arc, not a flat slot.  Depending on how

deep (or wide) you can get it cut, you may not be able to get full 'purchase' on the bolt.

Either way, I doubt it will give you much of a hard time.

Hammer on extractor?  Are you talking about an impact driver?  You will find lots of uses for one on cars.

Thats what I did when I installed the lowering bracket. I'll try that first and then try the hammer on extractor next...unless others chime in.

It looks like the spreader plate has captured nuts based on the diagram on parts section for thats good to know.

Get a dremel tool with a cut off disc. they're about 1" in diameter. Cut a slot in the bolt, and back it out with a flat blade screwdriver.

Last night thought, lets install that nifty steering column bracket you bought. Easier said then done. I am replacing the standard bracket and terrible (frankly unsafe looking) drop bracket and replacing with a very solid, single unit sold by one of our members here. Can't wait to get it in...if I can. haha

My Rover Mini has 3 shear bolts holding the steering column on. One for the column pinch bolt (super easy to get out) and two that hold the column bracket to the lower dash rail. Super tight and hard to get to. I ended up removing the entire column (which gave me the chance to inspect the splines on the end which I wanted to do since reading the almost horror story about it stripping). Just wondering what others have done to remove these two? Not a lot of room to hammer around. Thinking about trying one of those rounded bolt/hammer on extractors. Vise-Grips didnt work. Also, what are the nuts like on these? On my car, they appear to be 15mm but its so tight I cant actually see them. I can get a wrench on one of them but the wrench cant move due to the spreader plates lip. Such a PAIN!!!