"Obviously the four points on the sills would be ideal, per the factory jack but I don't see a way that the flat jack stand could support the angled sill. "

Those aren't jacking points ( if you are talking about the plates at the front and rear of the sills on both sides.

Do what Rick suggests, or mty's idea if you want it mobile.

It's rare to find a MINI that hasn't wrongly been jacked by those "plates" ..... it caves in the floor

I would use ideas from above ....

To lift the car get some 2x4s the same length as the subframe width.   Place these across the front and rear subframe rails (one at a time ...).  lace your trolley jack under the centre of the 2x4 and lift.

Put the jackstands under the rear edge of the front wheel arch and under the rear edge of the floor ie where it joins the heel board.

Once you have the subframes off, change to Hunters cross boards. Mty Muos' wheels are an excellent enhancement. Although I would join the crosspieces front to back (making a square) for stability.

Pretty much every Mini I've ever seen has damage to the 4 factory jig pads caused by incorect jacking.

Cheers, Ian

How do you intend to move the car around when you get the subframes out from inside it? Dan showed me this little trick and it's saved me quite a few times.

A couple 24's cut to the right length and 4 casters.

Or you can use two lengths of 2x6 or 2x8 to go across the floor near the toe board (front of floor/rear of wheel arch and clear of the ears of the front subbie) & heel board (vertical panel in front of rear wheels where rear sub frame is mounted).  lace jack stands under the ends of the lumber.

Great, thank you!

The body is an original Cooper S, so it should have these four pads. I'll get under the car tonight and have a close look. 

- Collin

Thanks Ian, 

The subframes are still attached to the car, I can easily jack the car up underneath the subframes, I'm looking for the right locations to place the shell on jackstands that would still allow me to remove the subframes. 

The four "lifting" points on the sills are designed to have the pointed end of a jack fit inside and lift the car up, which won't work with a standard axel stand/jack stand. 

Actually there are only 2 factory jacking points, one per side, wherby an entire side is lifted. If you body is still originall there will be 4 pads in the corners of the flat part of the sills which where used to support the body on the assembly line. You could put the jack stands at these points. Otherwise put them at the edge of the floor pan at the heal board and front foot well panel.  

So, are the subframes still attached to the shell???  If so, will you be wanting to remove the subframes once the shell is up on the stands?

And, are you asking where to put the jack (to raise the shell) ..or where should the jack stands be placed??

Cheers, Ian

I have completely stripped my Mini down to the shell, subframes, suspension and wheels and want to get to the next step and begin bodywork. 

I'd like to raise the entire car up onto four mid-rise jack stands so I can easily remove the subframes. If you aren't putting stands underneath the subframes, where is the best point that won't put load on the floor panels? Mine already needs panelbeating from years of people putting stands under the floors. 

Obviously the four points on the sills would be ideal, per the factory jack but I don't see a way that the flat jack stand could support the angled sill. 

Any advice is greatly appreciated.