I have no love for any short shift. I have removed my share. Give the people what they want. I have three or four shift housings the pins have been removed to thread for quick shift. They the pins are gone and the stick has been sawed in half. These are the trade in parts form getting rid of quick shifts. When I have enough I'll set up and bore the housings and machine pins which retain the cup as well as locating the stick, a lot of sticks need the groove welded and cut. Or widen the groove and make a fatter pin. I have done two recently to save parts they already have. One works well the other less so. I'm wondering if the lower portion of the stick needs to be shorter for the lift to reverse? Steve (CTR) 

Those aftermarket usually short shifters are a shot in the dark to how well they work. Try a regular stock shifter assembly first and go from there.

I have just completed a car that came in for new springs and Hi Lo s and new exhaust system. Owner pulled it into shop and left it. As much as I hate to say it, the car was to dirty to work on. I jumped in backed it out washed it off and pulled it back in. It was clear there was something bad wrong with the rod change shifter. Once removed it was a worn shift housing and a broken quick shift. I offered three solutions, rebuild the shifter with std stick, rebuild and install another budget MSC quick shift or rebuild and install a new generation KAD quick shift. He went with the MSC shifter. Drove it to and from muffler shop shifts very nice now. I do rod change rebuilds and can turn around in a couple of days. I currently need to order some parts and materials as I have had a run recently. Steve (CTR)

Exact same issue I had. My shoulder was sore! As minimike says lots of possible causes. Check adjustment first.

Here's what mine was.

• Almost impossible to drive when received
  1. Cause: Combination of clutch, worn linkage and quikshift
  2. Resolution: Replaced clutch clevis pin, linkage and back to standard shifter

Failed again a few days later. Looks like the slave cylinder now, so going to replace that. Will also replace hoses for good measure.

Look for fluid down by the brake pedal - that would indicate a master cylinder. 

Thanks for the tips, minimike. It helps a lot!

Thanks for the tips minimike. I've tripled checked the fluid level and it's good to go. The car is a right hand drive and I'm goofy tall so I can kind of wrap my leg around and bottom out the clutch while watching the arm move. Bleeding the system is one of the things I wasn't sure about but I will give it a go based on your suggestion and double check the fluids after. 

Thanks again. 

have someone press the clutch to the floor a few times and see if you have travel on the clutch arm.  If not try pumping it a few times. If it travels more, bleed the system. Don't forget to add fluid. And also check the fluid in the resevoir to see that you have fluid in there. Brake fluid.

Thanks very much, I'll didn't think to search for that as my brain was stuck on "shifter". Appreciate the help.

Common problem, at the top switch default to forum, and search clutch not releasing, there will be a ton of things for you to check. This is most likely the problem, not the shifter. Good luck 

Hi everyone,

I just picked up a 74 Mini on Wednesday and am struggling with a transmission/gearbox/shifting problem. THis is my 2nd mini but its been a long time so I am at a loss. The previous owner did a wonderful job building the car and keeping copious notes and receipts. He also numerous books that I have been looking at all day with no luck so I though it best to try here where humans with expertise are, lol.

I'm not sure how many details are needed on what the car has had done to it but the shifter is a Jamar Performance setup that seems to be popular in the VW and Off-road worlds, I checked underneath and the coupler looks perfect. 

The car fires up right away, runs like a dream but will not shift into gear without serious effort. With the engine off the car shifts smoothly through 4 gears and pops into reverse with no issues. Once I fire the car up it is a total crap shoot. It might pop right into gear but then when trying to change gears it's a no go. Other times I can't get it into first without a legit 5 minute struggle. My shoulder actually gets tired from going back and forth trying to find a gear.  

There isn't any grinding and I checked underneath for leaks or damage and found none. The fluids are all perfect and after looking at forums and books I am out of ideas.

Any thoughts on this from the gurus out there? Thanks in advance.