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 Posted: Dec 28, 2018 06:20AM
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So, what was the final solution? Replacement of the slave AND hose?

 Posted: Dec 26, 2018 01:31PM
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  • Thanks for all the help, the clutch works great now.

 Posted: Dec 24, 2018 08:38AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet18
The new slave cylinder got here. How am i supposed to get to the banjo bolt holding the hose in? Theres no room whatsoever to get even a box wrench in there.
Another reason to replace the hose as i suggested, the hoses fail internally and close up be sure that fluid flows through it before installing the slave cylinder.
Follow Doug's advice.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Dec 23, 2018 04:15AM
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US
The picture from your December 18th post does not show a banjo fitting.  In addition to the new slave cylinder are you installing a new hose at this time?

I am more familiar with the pre-verto setup.  However, I suggest loosening (but not removing) the two bolts holding the slave cylinder down.  That should allow you to rock the slave into a position where you can better access it yet be able to apply a reasonable amount of torque.  Once the hose is tightened, re-tighten the slave mounting bolts.

If that doesn't work for you, how about completely removing the slave mounting bolts, then undo the other end of the hose from the car.  That will allow you to work at the bench installing the new hose on the slave.  Once that is done, refit the cylinder with hose to the car and tighten the top hose fitting.

Doug L.
 Posted: Dec 22, 2018 05:27PM
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The new slave cylinder got here. How am i supposed to get to the banjo bolt holding the hose in? Theres no room whatsoever to get even a box wrench in there.

 Posted: Dec 19, 2018 02:33PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet18
Does this look like a bad slave cylinder?
Yes. They go bad along with rear wheel cylinders on Mini's all the time when they sit for a long period.
You can bleed it and you should get a pedal but it does need replacing. Be sure to crack the hose loose before you remove it as it is a pita when you try to after the fact.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Dec 19, 2018 12:23AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet18
Does this look like a bad slave cylinder?
Can’t really see... but , yes, it looks pretty manky to me.... new ones aren’t expensive.

Get a new one, fit it...  And if the existing one is not too far gone, put it on the shelf for a later rebuild...

Although, the one I use is at least 25 years old so put it somewhere that you won’t forget easilly

Cheers, Ian

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 08:51PM
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Im pretty sure its wet. Ive just used my phone to record the slave cylinder while i press the clutch pedal down because no one else is here right now. I topped it off.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 07:24PM
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US
looks like the rubber boot is rotted.  Is it wet?  

You need to have someone else push the clutch while you watch the slave to see if it's moving. Make sure your helper is pushing on the clutch and not the brake pedal.  (it happens)

Did you top up the clutch master cylinder with brake fluid?  (dot 3)

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 06:04PM
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Does this look like a bad slave cylinder?

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 05:34PM
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I have bled brakes before. I guess ill try that.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 05:20PM
 Edited:  Dec 18, 2018 05:21PM
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Pull the rubber boot back on the slave cylinder, if it is wet with fluid you need a new slave cylinder and you may as well replace the hose at the same time while you have it apart.
There are two different types verto and non verto a picture would help determine what type you have.

EDIT:I just read the heading you should have a verto set up.

If in doubt, flat out. Colin Mc Rae MBE 1968-2007.

Give a car more power and it goes faster on the straights,
make a car lighter and it's faster everywhere. Colin Chapman.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 05:17PM
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US
I think you need to bleed the air out of the clutch hydraulic system. You bleed that like you bleed brakes. Have you ever bleed brakes before? Google it, lots of good videos on YouTube also.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 04:54PM
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No fluid behind the clutch pedal. I cant really tell with the slave cylinder. Does the car need to be on the check if the clutch linkage moves? I pumped with the car off and the linkage still didn't move.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 04:46PM
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US
wipe your finger along the back side of the clutch pedal in the car.  If it's wet, your clutch master needs replacing or rebuilding. cheaper to replace unless you're a DYI guy.  If that's not wet. Top up the clutch master. start the engine and pump the clutch 2 or 3 times and try to put it in gear. If it goes in, you need to bleed the system. However that does not rule out replacing either the master or clutch slave.  Is there fluid at the slave cylinder push rod?  That would indicate replacing or rebuilding that part and then trying the system before springing for a new clutch master.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 04:43PM
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I checked the fluid. It was about half full so i added some. Still no movement in the linkage.
Yr

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 04:23PM
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CA
Check the fluid level in the clutch master cylinder - it uses brake fluid. Do not overfill. If it is very low, it leaked out somewhere - that needs to be fixed.
If the level is good, then you may need a new clutch master cylinder. 

.

"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 03:46PM
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Does this mean i need to add clutch fluid

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 03:13PM
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I just took video of the clutch linkage and nothing happened when i pressed down the pedal. Thats good i guess since it means its not in the engine. It grinds as soon as i try to put it in gear.

 Posted: Dec 18, 2018 02:48PM
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US
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullet18
... prior to being stored for 3 months my mom drove it while it was pretty low on oil. It was having some intermittent clutch issues before it was stored but now i cant seem to get the clutch to disengage at all. 
Where was the car stored for the 3 months when it was not used?  Was it in a damp location?

If you start the car in neutral, can you select first gear at all or does it immediately grind?   

Have you worked with an assistant and had them look at and confirm the clutch release lever is moving when you push the pedal?

Doug L.

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