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 Posted: Mar 26, 2019 09:21AM
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Thanks.

I will attempt to figure this out.  We will see if a new one is needed I guess.  

I think that the fuse info you have found is very similar to what I found as well.  I think that I only have 3 large fuses currently installed.

 Posted: Mar 26, 2019 08:28AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKlass
Thanks for the clarification on the code.....I didn't want to go the route of replacing O2 sensors.  And thanks so much for helping me with the location.

I made sure that the sensor was seated properly multiple times, prior to running the diagnostic and clearing the codes, resetting the sensor again, and clearing the codes but the engine light came back on and the same codes remain.

What next????

I thought that I possibly read something in regards to fuses and the lack of factory installed fuses, and a 7.5, etc....?

Would you advise I clean the sensor connection with something?????

Cheers.
You might try taking an ohm meter to the heater unit, the resistance should be very low - somewhere around 10 - 30 ohms..  If the resistance is significantly higher, you may need to replace it. Unfortunately, the heater only comes with the intake pipe / snorkel.

Unfortunately, some have reported a new pipe/heater did not solve the problem.

Here is another entry I found on the web - I cannot confirm it's validity but may be worth a look:

Open PCV Heater

Hi look in the fuse box in the engine. There are spots for 4 big relays. if 1 relay is missing, install that relay and install a 7.5 amp fuse in the missing spot also. clear codes.

 Posted: Mar 26, 2019 07:07AM
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Thanks for the clarification on the code.....I didn't want to go the route of replacing O2 sensors.  And thanks so much for helping me with the location.

I made sure that the sensor was seated properly multiple times, prior to running the diagnostic and clearing the codes, resetting the sensor again, and clearing the codes but the engine light came back on and the same codes remain.

What next????

I thought that I possibly read something in regards to fuses and the lack of factory installed fuses, and a 7.5, etc....?

Would you advise I clean the sensor connection with something?????

Cheers.

 Posted: Mar 25, 2019 09:01AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKlass
Ok, the good.....so I messed around with the connections and pulled the connection to the sensor off, hooked up the new adapter to it and at least the cooling fan appears to be running normally.  No issue with the engine temperature appear to be a problem.

The bad.....running a diagnostic, there were three codes, 2 X PO53A and PO118.  The PO118 can be cleared and does not appear to be the issue as that is related to the temp sensor reading.  Now, from what I understand the engine light is remaining on due to the PO53A codes that are related to the O2 sensor.....so now, it appears I mush replace these.  

I just don't know if it is the above or below flow stream (or both because there are two codes?)....

I'm really starting to hate this car.
P053A is: Positive Crankcase Ventilation Heater Control Circuit / Open.

Location for the connector to the PCV heater:

Follow the intake pipe from the airbox to the turbo inlet
Just before the turbo inlet, there is a hose that branches off and goes to the valve cover
At this junction is a small 2-wire electrical connector
This is the PCV heater.

Check to make sure this connector is seated properly. 

 Posted: Mar 25, 2019 08:17AM
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Should have bought a real Mini...

"Retired:  No Job, No Money, Wife and I!  Will travel anywhere for Minis"

hockey91dad@hotmail.com

 Posted: Mar 25, 2019 06:32AM
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Ok, the good.....so I messed around with the connections and pulled the connection to the sensor off, hooked up the new adapter to it and at least the cooling fan appears to be running normally.  No issue with the engine temperature appear to be a problem.

The bad.....running a diagnostic, there were three codes, 2 X PO53A and PO118.  The PO118 can be cleared and does not appear to be the issue as that is related to the temp sensor reading.  Now, from what I understand the engine light is remaining on due to the PO53A codes that are related to the O2 sensor.....so now, it appears I mush replace these.  

I just don't know if it is the above or below flow stream (or both because there are two codes?)....

I'm really starting to hate this car.

 Posted: Mar 21, 2019 07:38PM
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This just popped up in my recommended / target ads. I took notice that it was a named part for Paceman...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KHTKD5T?ref_=pgi_40ccee128eg736h749f9n2dmh0ic&tag=geminiadus-20&ascsubtag=pgi-P05-V03-05-TB-LO-3W0RLB

 Posted: Mar 20, 2019 04:18AM
 Edited:  Mar 20, 2019 04:20AM
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Thanks for the update! 

Curious to know if the codes stay away after clearing...

 Posted: Mar 19, 2019 07:47AM
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I have checked the codes....I don't have the specific code(s) off hand, but there were three codes all relating to the temp sensor malfunction.

I will try to get those today as I plan to run a diagnostic on it and I will post.

I did unplug the temp sensor in the elbow this morning on the way into work.  The fan was not running at the level that it had been (@ full bore) and appeared to be running at a  normal level when I stopped.  Also, the fan did not appear to be running like it was prior to me unplugging the sensor when I stopped at a traffic light, so this was a little promising.

As I mentioned, I am planning on running a diagnostic later today and I will attempt to clear the codes and see if they show up again.

Cheers.

 Posted: Mar 19, 2019 03:55AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JKlass
I just finished replacing this due to my engine overheating and thermostat sensor activation codes....it was a pain in the ass.

I was sent a thermostat that did not fit and had to return it for one that did...this newer thermostat worked and also required the sensor lead adapter.  However with the new install, I can't get the check engine light to turn off even after clearing all of the codes.  But, reading some of the thread, I didn't realize that the sensor in the elbow was no longer required (wish I knew that before I replaced it first).  Also, since I replaced the thermostat housing, it appears that the cooling fan runs hard and is working hard to cool the engine down, but it no longer overheats.  

I guess that I will try to unplug the temp sensor in the elbow and see what happens.

I don't know where you all planned on taking you car to get worked on for $585 because the dealership here in quoted us $1200-1500 for the repair, hence why I took it on.

Any info/guidance you all might have on my issue, please share.

Cheers
Let us know if anything changes after you unplug the old sensor in the elbow.

Have you checked the OBD port to see if any error codes are recorded in the car's computer?

 Posted: Mar 18, 2019 08:55AM
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I just finished replacing this due to my engine overheating and thermostat sensor activation codes....it was a pain in the ass.

I was sent a thermostat that did not fit and had to return it for one that did...this newer thermostat worked and also required the sensor lead adapter.  However with the new install, I can't get the check engine light to turn off even after clearing all of the codes.  But, reading some of the thread, I didn't realize that the sensor in the elbow was no longer required (wish I knew that before I replaced it first).  Also, since I replaced the thermostat housing, it appears that the cooling fan runs hard and is working hard to cool the engine down, but it no longer overheats.  

I guess that I will try to unplug the temp sensor in the elbow and see what happens.

I don't know where you all planned on taking you car to get worked on for $585 because the dealership here in quoted us $1200-1500 for the repair, hence why I took it on.

Any info/guidance you all might have on my issue, please share.

Cheers

 Posted: Mar 18, 2019 05:33AM
 Edited:  Mar 20, 2019 04:19AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christyp
My mini 2012 coupe s r58 I got in Jan was leaking coolant  The  dealership said it was a leaking thermostat housing and would cost 585 bucks. My local part store ordered me one and it was the wrong one. So then they ordered one according the VIN # and thermostat adapter. My old one had removable thermostat
 Everything I read said adapter by passed the old thermostat. My question is what do I do with the old one that's still attached by wires? 
The thermostat is molded into the housing along with a couple sensors. Some of the housings have a sensor that you can remove and replace, but if you are dealing with a leak, you should replace the entire housing.

The early thermostat and sensors had some issues, so MINI made a couple revisions which have slightly different electrical connections.  This is why wiring adapters are necessary for some replacements, depending on the vin number.  The adapters allow direct connection of the wiring harness to the updated thermostat housings.

On some models, there was a temp sensor in a 'alloy elbow' in one of the coolant hoses.  When upgrading to the newer thermostat housing, this sensor is eliminated / replaced by the sensors in the housing. So the wiring to this sensor can be left disconnected whether you leave this elbow/sensor in place or replace the hose with a newer version, eliminating the elbow and sensor.

edit: When ordering the thermostat housing from us, provide the last 7-digits of the vin number so we can confirm we get you the correct setup.

 Posted: Mar 15, 2019 09:24AM
 Edited:  Mar 15, 2019 10:21AM
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I have extended warranty but was told it didn't cover this. This car is really confusing me bc I can't find anything related to repairs on 2012 r58. My engine light came in and have a feeling it's due to by passed thermostat still attached by wires. 

 Posted: Mar 15, 2019 06:56AM
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I'm sorry I cannot help you with your specific question. My only experience changing a thermostat housing is with an 08 Clubman.

But what I came on here to say is IF there is a crossover pipe on your R58 (that plugs into the back of the thermostat housing and follows across the back of the motor and plugs into the water pump at the other end), you should consider replacing that at the same time. I followed some online instructions and video from youtube. But getting the old crossover tube out was not as easy (for me) as everyone makes it sound. I had to come at it from underneath the car.

I did a quick google search (because the whole R52, R53, R56, etc confuses me) and there looks to be some chatter about extended warranty on thermostat replacements for some cars...

 Posted: Mar 15, 2019 04:27AM
 Edited:  Mar 15, 2019 09:55AM
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My mini 2012 coupe s r58 I got in Jan was leaking coolant  The  dealership said it was a leaking thermostat housing and would cost 585 bucks. My local part store ordered me one and it was the wrong one. So then they ordered one according the VIN # and thermostat adapter. My old one had removable thermostat
 Everything I read said adapter by passed the old thermostat. My question is what do I do with the old one that's still attached by wires?