Found 21 Messages
Total posts: 610
Last post: Feb 2, 2025 Member since:Mar 11, 2010
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 6 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
![]() |
These products react to air, which is why they can stop a leak. If there is no air incorporated into the system, they can't solidify.
BTW, if you need it and don't have it, stop at a nearby farm and beg or borrow an egg. Let the engine cool a little and add the egg white with the water you add. The egg white will seal the leak so that you can get back to town.
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 1007
Last post: Jul 19, 2022 Member since:Jul 24, 2014
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 6911
Last post: Feb 28, 2025 Member since:Feb 26, 1999
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
and never use the stuff that seals a leaking cooling system. It will clog the heater core in short time and then you'll need to replace that.
Total posts: 610
Last post: Feb 2, 2025 Member since:Mar 11, 2010
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 6 WorkBench Posts: 1 |
![]() |
Brown coolant can be oil mixture, old coolant, coolant added to a rusted system, or mixtures of coolants. Use a liquid flush agent as per its instructions (don't use powdered stuff because it often does not completely dissolve and ends up in the pump housing.
Then fill it with water and change the oil. Drive it around, let it heat up, cool down, etc. a time or two. Check the oil for water and the water for oil. When cold, there is more oil pressure than water, when hot, but shut off, there is more water pressure than oil pressure.
If nothing mixes, put in a good HOAT coolant, replace your turbo, etc.
If things mix, it is probably your head gasket that needs replacing.
Don't get too hung up on the coolant sealers. Some work very well. Someone gave me one in 85 when I was driving to Alaska. I carried it with me until the year 2000 when my truck sprung a leak in the radiator. I tried it and ended up leaving it about 5 years since it fixed the problem and I forgot about it. I remembered it when changing the coolant and the new stuff spurted out.
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 9845
Last post: May 23, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 596
Last post: Aug 16, 2024 Member since:Apr 21, 2012
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023 Member since:Dec 29, 2004
|
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Once again thanks for all the info everyone!
I am concerned about your intention to simply replace the turbo. With smoke coming out of the exhaust, the catalytic converter is probably contaminated and is probably causing some back pressure. This back pressure will damage any new turbo that you install - not 'if' but 'when'. You should have the cat either refurbished or replaced if you want your new turbo to last. You should also replace the oil supply line (read any of our turbo product pages which contains a lot of useful information.) I would be concerned about 'why' the turbo failed.
On another note, Dan listed some very wise steps to take. I would recommend you follow them.
Total posts: 2040
Last post: Mar 20, 2025 Member since:Aug 29, 2001
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 4
Last post: Apr 17, 2019 Member since:Apr 16, 2019
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Once again thanks for all the info everyone!
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 9845
Last post: May 23, 2025 Member since:Aug 14, 2002
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Second, yes, we do have some curmudgeons here - it would be dull without them/us.
Third, as Elpez says, you did admit to buying a mechanic special. According to what you wrote, it had a claimed bad turbo. Perhaps the bad turbo is the cause of the bad coolant, OR the bad turbo is a result of something else contaminating the coolant and causing the turbo to fail.
I suspect you're going to need an engine transplant or rebuild. Before throwing too much time and money into this one, I'd start with some simple diagnostics.
- check the plugs to see if they look in reasonable condition or if here are signs oil or other fouling. If you can scope the bores so much the better.
- check the oil for contaminants such as water or fuel.
- do a cold compression check to see how healthy the engine is.
- drain and flush the cooing system several times to see if you can get it clear.
- with the cooling system clean and full, try starting the engine. I would try this with the rad cap off so you can monitor the coolant. It should be able to run even with a bad turbo. It may be in "limp-in" mode but you should be able to get it up to operating temperature. Watch carefully for overheating - some passages may be blocked. Look everywhere for leaks. Check the coolant for oil or other contaminants - it will probably discolour as the running engine flushes the "skunk crap" out of the system. Watch also for steam bubbles or excessive steaming - if cooling passages in the engine are blocked, localized overheating/boiling may occur, indicating an internal problem.
Doing these steps will not solve your problems - just diagnose the condition of the engine and whether it is worth fixing. That's where your cheque-book comes into play. Some "bargain cars" aren't bargains in the long run. If you have the tools and skills to rebuild or replace an engine, it may work out, but if you need to employ a garage it may be costly. If you need to resort to a dealer, it WILL be costly.
Personally, I like some of the new BMW MINIS but would never own one - just too expensive to maintain and repair. On the other hand, a classic Mini would probably cost the same to buy as a used BINI, parts are a whole lot cheaper and I can do just about all the work on it.
.
"Hang on a minute lads....I've got a great idea."
Total posts: 2271
Last post: May 23, 2023 Member since:Dec 29, 2004
|
Cars in Garage: 1
Photos: 9 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
Thanks!
Is the car running?
When you say a 'bad turbo', did it have a catastrophic failure or is it simply burning oil?
If someone used a block sealer, I would be concerned as they tend to block small passages in potentially critical areas (including the turbo )...
Total posts: 880
Last post: Jun 17, 2024 Member since:Dec 12, 2004
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
![]() |
BTW, you call this bashing???? Stick around for a while! Really sorry about the state of your MINI, hope you get it running and are able to enjoy it.
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 4
Last post: Apr 17, 2019 Member since:Apr 16, 2019
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 3919
Last post: Oct 29, 2019 Member since:Oct 4, 2013
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Total posts: 4
Last post: Apr 17, 2019 Member since:Apr 16, 2019
|
Cars in Garage: 0
Photos: 0 WorkBench Posts: 0 |
Found 21 Messages